Eirewolf Report post Posted October 13, 2023 Hi all! I am looking for recommendations for good quality edge bevelers that I won't have to replace frequently. I like a rounded edge, and I'm usually using 7-8 oz veg tan (sometimes 4-5 oz). The photos show what bevelers I've used (and eventually struggled to use), and how I strop them (400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and jeweler's rouge). I want a tool that will arrive sharp, stay sharp (with stropping), and that will give me a nice clean edge without a struggle. Also, what sizes are best for 7-8 oz and 4-5 oz leather? And should I be stropping differently? Thanks in advance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 14, 2023 I'm not very good at keeping or even getting my edgers sharp. So I use these and dispose of them when they get too blunt. I buy them in the 10s for about under £3. I found you/me will have to pay more for 'leather edgers' than for the same tool as cuticle trimmers in the nail art / beauty section of ebay. I use them on thicknesses from about 3oz (1.2mm) and upwards. They take off from the corner edge a very nicely cut thin strip. On thick leather a second run around the corner rounds the edge a bit more Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted October 14, 2023 I like open ended edgers like old Gomphs, old Osbornes, modern like Ron's Tools, Barry King, Horse Shoe Brand Tools round edgers, and some other makers I going to forget but not intentionally. I got a set of WUTA or similar in a set of tools. they sharpened up well and my wife likes them for her thin leather projects. Pretty small. Palosanto tools are good but can be really brittle and require care in use (especially their French edgers). With all of these you can strop the top and bottom of the cutting edge. The Craftool edgers you show are harder to do that. You can sharpen the bottom and the bur edge rolls up and hard to get in there and see what's happening. Plus those edges can be really steep angled and chisel more than slice. My 2 cents worth. Sharpening? For hand sharpening you are on the right track with the rods and paper. I'd only say that 400 grit is where I start, not finish. Work until I get bur and then I progress through 5 or 6 grits up to 1500 and more often than not 2000 if I am doing one by hand. Then I go to the strop top and bottom. With some some profiled edges I buff the top. Stropping out 400 grit marks is tedious and most people quit too soon. Go to 2000 on paper and then 20 or so strokes on the strop should have it. I still do some by hand but I also have variable speed grinders and buffers with profiled wheels that make life easier and more repeatable edges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eirewolf Report post Posted October 25, 2023 Thank you Fred and Bruce! How do people feel about TandyPro® Tools Edge Bevelers? I'm wondering if I should use a coupon and try it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted October 26, 2023 1 hour ago, Eirewolf said: Thank you Fred and Bruce! How do people feel about TandyPro® Tools Edge Bevelers? I'm wondering if I should use a coupon and try it out. They are flat bottom edgers, not rounded. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purplefox66 Report post Posted October 26, 2023 Give a look at Ron's tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomE Report post Posted October 26, 2023 Although @bruce johnson didn't say it, he sells high quality leather tools that are sharp and ready for use. Check out Bruce Johnson Leather on the web and on Facebook. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SUP Report post Posted October 26, 2023 As @TomE says, you could talk to @bruce johnson . He is an extremely helpful gentleman and will guide you on exactly what you need. He also sells tools of different brands, so you will have a variety from which to select. His tools are always well sharpened so you don't have the issue of having to sharpen them on receipt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eirewolf Report post Posted October 28, 2023 I really appreciate all the input, everyone. Please forgive my newbie questions; I don't know much about the tools and I don't have anyone nearby I can learn from. When a description says that an edge beveler does a 3/32" cut, does that mean it's for 6-oz leather? I'm a bit confused because it seems there isn't necessarily a standard across brands as to what thickness a #2 size is for, for example. I mainly need something for a rounded edge (front and back) on 7-8oz leather. (Occasionally for 4-5oz.) I'm willing to spend good money if I know a tool is going to give good results and last a long time without needing professional sharpening or a lot of fuss. (I don't have a workshop with power tools even if I knew how to do it myself.) I watched the video on Ron's Tools site, and I see one thing I've been doing wrong – he moves the butt of the tool up and down as well as back and forth, and I haven't been doing it that way. Could that be why my bevelers have been going dull so quickly? And he uses a power buffer, but does that do the same thing as a strop with jeweler's rouge? Thanks again for the help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted October 28, 2023 2 hours ago, Eirewolf said: I really appreciate all the input, everyone. Please forgive my newbie questions; I don't know much about the tools and I don't have anyone nearby I can learn from. When a description says that an edge beveler does a 3/32" cut, does that mean it's for 6-oz leather? I'm a bit confused because it seems there isn't necessarily a standard across brands as to what thickness a #2 size is for, for example. I mainly need something for a rounded edge (front and back) on 7-8oz leather. (Occasionally for 4-5oz.) I'm willing to spend good money if I know a tool is going to give good results and last a long time without needing professional sharpening or a lot of fuss. (I don't have a workshop with power tools even if I knew how to do it myself.) I watched the video on Ron's Tools site, and I see one thing I've been doing wrong – he moves the butt of the tool up and down as well as back and forth, and I haven't been doing it that way. Could that be why my bevelers have been going dull so quickly? And he uses a power buffer, but does that do the same thing as a strop with jeweler's rouge? Thanks again for the help. I'm probably the one you are referring to with the 3/32" of cut. That is how I am starting to describe edge tools. Good or bad, at least it gives some sort of reference. There are NO industry standards for size numbers anymore. It used to be that every number corresponded to that many 16ths of an inch. That standard went away years ago and now the numbers from one maker to another don't match usually. I am starting to just give the tool maker's size number and widths of cut so something/anything will relate. Size wise? some people like a heavier rounded edge and want a 180 degree rounded side edge. Others want a tiny bit edged off and a mostly flat side edge profile. Comes down to personal preference. I've got a tutorial on my website how I sharpen and strop edgers. I still do them mostly like the tutorial even though that was years ago - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/tutorials/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites