Paasche swivel knife

[SUP]

Are Paasche swivel knives any good? I looked for information online and here, could not find any. 

I would appreciate any information.

[Burkhardt]

The question I would ask you is, what would you think makes a good knife?  I've never heard of that brand maybe @bruce johnson has? I was fine with a cheap one and solely based on needing a longer one with a bigger barrel is why I went with a Barry King. The blade is better on the BK but that was the least of reasons I bought one. Still have the cheap one and use it daily.

[SUP]

@Burkhardt No idea. I have not yet started tooling seriously. Just tinkered with a cheap one I got in an Amazon set. So wondered about this brand. 

[Burkhardt]

I used a cheap Ebay one for years and only because if cramping and hand going numb I got the BK. All the hand problems went away. If I had smaller hands I probably would have never switched. Tandy for the like 8.00 blade isn't to bad a blade upgrade on the cheap ones. Even the expensive ones you got to strop a lot too.

[bruce johnson]

The only Paasche knives I know of are stencil cutting knives, not leather swivel knives. 

 

[SUP]

@bruce johnson thank you. I wondered. I like to collect as much information as I can before I need to make any purchases. 

[Gezzer]

I started with a $20,00 knife and after a year and a half thought I needed an up-grade ( about $70.00 knife ) . Only difference is the cradle free wheels a little better .........

[SUP]

Once I decide to start tooling, which I do not as yet have the courage to do, I will buy a good swivel knife. Until then, investigate so that when I am ready, I know which I want to buy. Thank you for all the information and insight, @Gezzer, @bruce johnson, @Burkhardt

[tsunkasapa]

The blade has far to do with it. Any 'handle' that fits and is comfortable will do the job. But a quality blade is a must.

[bruce johnson]

there are a few things to think about with a swivel knife - blade and the handle/yoke plus what you have for sharpening and how well you sharpen - then factor in budget and expectations.

blades are all over the scale in quality. Obviously you can expect the more expensive they are generally the better edge retention. A Craftool blade can be sharpened to the same edge as any of them but it probably will not maintain that edge as long. Still passable if you have skills to sharpen correctly, frustrating if you don't. 

The less expensive come in two flavors - adjustable and nonadjustable height. Even the highest adjustment on some may not be enough for some styles. the diameters are maybe two choice but generally no choice. The yokes are usually one size fits most. The upper end makers have choices to optimize the tool. They offer choices in yokes - size, width, amount of curve, profile. Fatter fingers - more width, smaller fingers smaller yoke. If you use the flat of your finger then a flatter wider profile yoke is more comfortable. If you press at the joint of your finger - narrower rounded profile. If you have bigger hands or lay your knife back then generally a taller barrel. If you stand your knife more vertical or smaller hands then a shorter barrel. barrel diameter is crucial. 1/16 inch can be a big thing. smaller hands generally smaller barrels. If you are doing long straight lines or gentle curves a larger barrel will help track straighter. If you are doing tighter intricate curves (Sheridan style) then a smaller barrel has a faster turning action. It is like shoes - comfort at some pricepoint.

smoothness of action - you can oil up most Craftools and make them fairly smooth. The higher end ones are smoother because of bearings. On some you can tap the yoke and they'll spin a long time. You aren't ever going to turn one that fast in use, but it attests to a more quality and detailed construction. 

Sharpening - there are a very few people on the planet who can free hand sharpen a swivel knife blade to the best it can be. The rest of us really need a jig. The roller Craftool one works. Chuck Smith makes one, Gordon Andrus makes one, probably others. I've got one I made for my variable speed knife sharpener. Point is - use something for a flat edge. I go to 5000 grit before I think about stropping - that's just me now. I wish I did when I was carving a bunch, I'd have fought my knife a lot less. Strops are cheap - piece of manila folder with your favorite flavor of compound. The softer the steel the more often the blade will need attention. Overstropping softer blades with an aggressive compound will round them unless you are really gifted. Better off to run them on a jig with fine grit a bit and then a few strokes stropping than strop one a hundred strokes. 

How do you pick a knife now?? You need to figure the configuration that is comfortable to use and in your budget. They are again like buying shoes - fit matters. try them if you can first - somebody's shop or a show. Budget will tell you which makers to look at.