Paasche swivel knife

[SUP]

Are Paasche swivel knives any good? I looked for information online and here, could not find any. 

I would appreciate any information.

[Burkhardt]

The question I would ask you is, what would you think makes a good knife?  I've never heard of that brand maybe @bruce johnson has? I was fine with a cheap one and solely based on needing a longer one with a bigger barrel is why I went with a Barry King. The blade is better on the BK but that was the least of reasons I bought one. Still have the cheap one and use it daily.

[SUP]

@Burkhardt No idea. I have not yet started tooling seriously. Just tinkered with a cheap one I got in an Amazon set. So wondered about this brand. 

[Burkhardt]

I used a cheap Ebay one for years and only because if cramping and hand going numb I got the BK. All the hand problems went away. If I had smaller hands I probably would have never switched. Tandy for the like 8.00 blade isn't to bad a blade upgrade on the cheap ones. Even the expensive ones you got to strop a lot too.

[bruce johnson]

The only Paasche knives I know of are stencil cutting knives, not leather swivel knives. 

 

[SUP]

@bruce johnson thank you. I wondered. I like to collect as much information as I can before I need to make any purchases. 

[Gezzer]

I started with a $20,00 knife and after a year and a half thought I needed an up-grade ( about $70.00 knife ) . Only difference is the cradle free wheels a little better .........

[SUP]

Once I decide to start tooling, which I do not as yet have the courage to do, I will buy a good swivel knife. Until then, investigate so that when I am ready, I know which I want to buy. Thank you for all the information and insight, @Gezzer, @bruce johnson, @Burkhardt

[tsunkasapa]

The blade has far to do with it. Any 'handle' that fits and is comfortable will do the job. But a quality blade is a must.

[bruce johnson]

there are a few things to think about with a swivel knife - blade and the handle/yoke plus what you have for sharpening and how well you sharpen - then factor in budget and expectations.

blades are all over the scale in quality. Obviously you can expect the more expensive they are generally the better edge retention. A Craftool blade can be sharpened to the same edge as any of them but it probably will not maintain that edge as long. Still passable if you have skills to sharpen correctly, frustrating if you don't. 

The less expensive come in two flavors - adjustable and nonadjustable height. Even the highest adjustment on some may not be enough for some styles. the diameters are maybe two choice but generally no choice. The yokes are usually one size fits most. The upper end makers have choices to optimize the tool. They offer choices in yokes - size, width, amount of curve, profile. Fatter fingers - more width, smaller fingers smaller yoke. If you use the flat of your finger then a flatter wider profile yoke is more comfortable. If you press at the joint of your finger - narrower rounded profile. If you have bigger hands or lay your knife back then generally a taller barrel. If you stand your knife more vertical or smaller hands then a shorter barrel. barrel diameter is crucial. 1/16 inch can be a big thing. smaller hands generally smaller barrels. If you are doing long straight lines or gentle curves a larger barrel will help track straighter. If you are doing tighter intricate curves (Sheridan style) then a smaller barrel has a faster turning action. It is like shoes - comfort at some pricepoint.

smoothness of action - you can oil up most Craftools and make them fairly smooth. The higher end ones are smoother because of bearings. On some you can tap the yoke and they'll spin a long time. You aren't ever going to turn one that fast in use, but it attests to a more quality and detailed construction. 

Sharpening - there are a very few people on the planet who can free hand sharpen a swivel knife blade to the best it can be. The rest of us really need a jig. The roller Craftool one works. Chuck Smith makes one, Gordon Andrus makes one, probably others. I've got one I made for my variable speed knife sharpener. Point is - use something for a flat edge. I go to 5000 grit before I think about stropping - that's just me now. I wish I did when I was carving a bunch, I'd have fought my knife a lot less. Strops are cheap - piece of manila folder with your favorite flavor of compound. The softer the steel the more often the blade will need attention. Overstropping softer blades with an aggressive compound will round them unless you are really gifted. Better off to run them on a jig with fine grit a bit and then a few strokes stropping than strop one a hundred strokes. 

How do you pick a knife now?? You need to figure the configuration that is comfortable to use and in your budget. They are again like buying shoes - fit matters. try them if you can first - somebody's shop or a show. Budget will tell you which makers to look at. 

 

[SUP]

@bruce johnson that is very detailed information. Thank you. There is so much to learn. I will probably first try with a cheaper swivel knife to get an idea of it, then buy a good one.

@tsunkasapa yes. the blade is everything, isn't it  but  Bruce, are the blades of new knives good? I mean, of harder steel? I heard that these days, most knives have softer steel. Is that true?

[bruce johnson]

55 minutes ago, SUP said:

@bruce johnson

@tsunkasapa yes. the blade is everything, isn't it  but  Bruce, are the blades of new knives good? I mean, of harder steel? I heard that these days, most knives have softer steel. Is that true?

It depends on which maker. The new Craftool and entry level Amazon blades are not that great but workable. As you move up the ladder generally the blade material and grind quality gets better. I've had some Asian made Amazon-ish swivel knives with pretty good steel and some were not. I've got one friend who uses a blade made from a point file that Chuck Smith made years ago - awesome blade and he strops it on his pants to just wipe it off. He said it has never been resharpened after years as a carver in a shop. I believe him and have used it some. I told myself I wasn't going to name names but here goes....Top of the heap for me is Bob Beard - hard to get and expensive - something to aspire to, not start with. The cobalt blades Chuck makes now have really good reviews from a couple people I respect.  LeatherWranglers, Red Ox (Gordon Andrus)are similar in price to Chuck Smith and can't go wrong with any of them.  Barry King, Clay Miller, and Gomph-Hackbarth (Lonnie Height) make good knives.

  The skinny on this -   If I was  outfitting a new bench - for the mid level price Barry King would be where I'd start. He's got a moderately priced swivel knife in more yoke and barrel choices. He's got a selection of blade choices. He'd be way more consistent than taking a stab at Amazon. He can give you advice on what he thinks will work best for you. With his pricing you could actually buy 2 or 3 swivel knives from him in different barrel and blade setups for the price one of the premium knives from another maker. If you decide to move up the food chain in a couple years, Barry King tools hold value more than the lower ends. In the meantime you will have learned to sharpen and maintain, what you like and more  of what your carving style is and what you need to do it. 

 

 

[SUP]

@bruce johnson . I do not plan to buy swivel knives on Amazon anyway. That was only for a first time - when I bought a set when I first started leatherwork. Now I am gradually replacing some of the things with better quality tools.  A swivel knife is one item that has to be of good quality. I am still learning construction techniques so not moving on to tooling as yet but I can see that coming soon. There is just so much construction one can do. I am slowly looking for unusual tooling patterns or drawing my own. Asian and European themes perhaps. 

Thank you for the tips on the really good makers of swivel knives. I will probably start with Barry King and go ahead from there.

[Burkhardt]

9 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

The blade has far to do with it. Any 'handle' that fits and is comfortable will do the job. But a quality blade is a must.

You talking to anyone specific?