Photo Demo: Using Latex Rubber to Mask Dye

[CitizenKate]

I got a chance to use latex rubber as a dye mask on my powercat clock project (yes, I'm finally getting some more work done on it), and decided to snap some photos as I worked so you could see how well this latex rubber works as a dye mask.

If you like to spray on your dyes, this seems to be a fairly trouble-free way of keeping the dye off the areas of your project where you don't want it.

PLEASE NOTE: Putting this latex product on leather may affect how the leather is able to absorb dye after the latex is removed. It has also been known to cause some discoloration of some leathers. (I haven't had this problem with the leather I use, but some people have reported this problem.) It's generally best to only use it on areas you don't plan to apply dye to. It is still usually okay to use paints and antiques or stains in those areas. But if in doubt, test first.

ALSO PLEASE NOTE: This demo was done with the dye being applied with an air brush. If you are applying dye with a bristle brush, you will still need to be somewhat careful around the edges of the area being dyed. If your brush is loaded too heavy as you work around the edges, the dye can bleed under the mask. To prevent this, be sure your brush is loaded relatively lightly as you work around the edges near the mask.

The product I used is from Woodland Scenics that I got from the local Hobby Lobby in the section where model train stuff is.

It's a fairly thick, creamy material with a very slight odor to it. I think it was a little thinner when I first bought it, but it has sat on my shelf for probably about a year, and has thickened slightly in that amount of time.

I found it easy to apply with my acrylic shader brushes. This is the second coat that is going on. Two coats seemed to work fine, as you will see at the end.

Here is how the project looks after two coats of latex have been applied to the entire matted area in the middle of the clock, around the powercat logo. It still hasn't dried completely, but when the entire application of latex turns clear, it's dry and ready to spray on. It took this one about a half-hour to dry completely.

I masked off the rest of the leather with "purple" painter's tape to protect it from overspray. The latex is used to get into the more intricate areas of the design, and the painter's tape is used for more nondescript areas.

Now spray the entire area. You don't need to worry too much about getting it on the mask. In fact, you want to make sure the color is nice and even all the way to the edges of the logo, so the dye needs to be sprayed well into the masked

area.

Now the tape is removed...

And here's the slick part... look at how this stuff just peels right off the leather!

Behold, Willie is purple! (Although it looks a little more brownish in the photo.) Almost a perfect dye job. I ended up getting just a little bit of latex into the edge of the logo, so after I removed the mask, I was able to do a little touch-up in a couple of spots with a lightly-loaded brush. There was no noticeable discoloration of the leather where the mask was applied. (But note: the slightly discolored areas you see on the project were caused by mold. The mold is dead, but the stain, unfortunately, is more or less permanent. Fortunately, this is going to be my clock, not someone else's so I don't have the dilemma of whether to re-do it or not. I'm hoping the antique will cover up that little problem.)

I'm hoping to finish this up tomorrow - no promises - the leather part, anyway. I'll post another photo after the dye, stain, and finish are done.

Kate

Edited March 24, 2010 by CitizenKate

[candyleather]

Excellent! Thanks for sharing

[Ross]

live and learn. i'da never thought of that. guess thats why i visit here!

[CitizenKate]

Actually, I didn't think of it, until gearsmithy brought it up on in another discussion. I love all the brainstorming that goes on around here!

Kate

[gearsmithy]

Very nice Kate. I use this all the time now. No more ruined projects!!

[ClayB]

Hi Kate,

That is a really neat demo. Now all you have to do is come up here to ND for a weekend and show me how you get all those neat effects with your airbrush. Thanks for taking the time to photograph what you did and share the pics with us all.

[Regis]

Kate,

Picked some up today and tried on scrap. Really easy to use and to lift off. One and two coats worked but, I'd feel safer with 2 coats. I didn't spray but, daubed the dye on.

But, it's a good thing yours sat on the shelf for a year....WOW, strong amonia odor while the lid is off.

I'm working on a simple holster and will use the resist on the initials and post (if holster turns out ok).

Thanks for the tip/idea

*UPDATE* Heavy daubing is NOT a good thing. It came up under the latex. Spraying like Kate would be much better....so much for the black holster with brown initials..

[gearsmithy]

Kate,

Picked some up today and tried on scrap. Really easy to use and to lift off. One and two coats worked but, I'd feel safer with 2 coats. I didn't spray but, daubed the dye on.

But, it's a good thing yours sat on the shelf for a year....WOW, strong amonia odor while the lid is off.

I'm working on a simple holster and will use the resist on the initials and post (if holster turns out ok).

Thanks for the tip/idea

*UPDATE* Heavy daubing is NOT a good thing. It came up under the latex. Spraying like Kate would be much better....so much for the black holster with brown initials..

Spray works the best, but you can daub it too, just be sure to get the latex into your cut lines. When you cut the grain you expose some of the flesh, which acts like a wick that dye can seep through and get under the latex. If you want to brush your dye on my experience has been to cover the area you want to resist with latex including the cut lines beside the raised portion. this will cover the flesh side and prevent wicking. Then after you brush on your dye, peel back the latex and with a very fine brush "finish" the piece.

[Regis]

Kate,

I have now got the nak of using the rubber and it is very easy. I did learn (like you originally said) 2or 3 coats are required. On this, I brushed the brown after spraying the black. Had some preval sprayer problems so had to touch-up daub but, the latex worked perfect. I also found that I can apply the latex a lot easier now after a few attemps (just like anything else, practice). Still don't understand the bluish hue in photo....it's really black, in person.

Thank you for your tutorial as it will save me a lot as my coloring complexity grows.

[FHL FERG]

Great idea thanks for sharing.

Man I love this place!