Covering swells

[kseidel]

Keith,

I am leaning against lacing now, but I wanted to get clarification on your advice. Are you saying that the lacing should not get too far above the purple line in this photo? What about if I laced it down the green line. I think I should be able to stretch it around the top corner and lace the slack below it. I was planning to lace them with latigo to match my saddle strings. I seem to get this 'good' ideas that someone else has already found that they are not that good. I am going to practice sewing some welts this weekend. Thanks for all the advice.

Randy

You can put your welt anywhere that you want I've even seen a Visalia with the welt on the back in the leg cut! As far as height, you can go higher than the purple line, even as high as a hole above the green line. Just keep it below the top line if the swell. The thicker the lace, the more it will stick out and interrupt the profile of the swell. Rawhide as shown in your pic is thin and can be pounded flat. Latigo has to be thicker to retain strength, and cannot be pounded as flat. That is why I recommended kangaroo, as it is very thin and very strong. It will not add a thick bump at your welt. Remember, the lace is not just on the outside, but underneath as well. This magnifies the bump created with a lace welt. Kangaroo will also wear much better than latigo.

[kseidel]

Bob's saddle pictures 018.jpgPicture.jpgWow, great topic, thanks for posting it Bruce. also thanks to all the guys who have posted on this one, especially because, you all are the guys who's work I love to emulate. As for how to cover swells, all your comments seem to be right on from my experience. Unfortunately I didn't have anyone to learn from, just the books by A. Stohlman. Most of what you guys are doing seems to be in line with that. As for use with welts or without. I have done both, and the hidden stitch on a BW Cutting saddle also. I even have built a couple of saddles for one customer that wanted same tree, a CS Roper, but; one for a horse that was without, and one for a mule that was with a laced fork. They all turned out well. Seems like doing them is always a progression of, working out the wrinkles from large to small, and then all of a sudden, you are done! Anyway, it is great to hear all of the comments that you guys have posted, and as always, I try to learn from what I hear and see of your work. Thanks for your posts.

Bob

P.S. here are those two that are on the same style tree, but; done different.

Nice job on your swell covers Bob. Your laced welt is a good example of lacing a bit too high. Stopping a hole or two lower would help the welt follow the swell profile more smoothly. No offense intended!

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Thanks Keith for the advice. No offense taken. As I have said, I love to see your work and try to learn from it. Your critique of any of my work only serves to make it better.

Thanks again.

Bob

[screed]

What oz kangaroo lace does everybody recommend to lace up swells?

Thanks in advance

[oltoot]

This certainly illustrates that there are few standards in the field of saddlemaking. The front discussion is sort of a recap of the history of tanning, changes in cattle and thus leather and the spirit of challenge and the oneupsmanship that drives the male dominated field. All that said, here's another view on the fork covering world. I tried to remember the times that I have had a customer request a particular mode and the only times I could remember someone being specific was about a half dozen who have specified laced swells and some have said no lacing at the back of the horn. I have covered Bowman type fronts,Modified Assns, Buster Welch's and swell forks of 12" and less without welts. My self imposed breaking point is when I must use too light or spongy leather, then use a welt to maintain personally imposed standards. Welting method once decision is made to welt: I was first taught to do folded, hand sewn welts, which amazingly was my welt of choice while I didn't have a stitcher. The same old man that had showed me the hand sewn, folded welts also employed a machine sewn, single ply welt and I would go that way for a long time after I got a stitcher (Union Lock). Lately I have been using a machine sewn, folded welt with great succes. That's my story and I'm sticken to it. Yes and no to the would you charge more ? I am of the diehard breed that votes for simplicity and not specificity. I have noticed that just about everything would be more than we commonly allocate to it if we were to start keeping track of all that kind of thing. Personally, I try to keep the price of the big ticket items in $50 increments, and try to maximize responding to requests for something that differs from the norm as included but knowing that some will end up as add ons. Pricing leather work is a pretty complex issue. Consider the world of braiding, when we make the first few items for sale, we don't usually say that we will charge the most for an item when we are still experimenting with different approaches to string making, twisted vs braided cores, managing rawhide readiness etc and plan on reducing the price once preliminary hurdles are overcome and we have received the recognition and endorsement of our peers. And then there is the working, using gear vs museum or collector quality dilemma. I am personally greatful for the cowboy mentality which feels and even proclaims that life is too short to work with ugly tack, I second that motion vigorously even though I get a special discount. I'd like to think that I would feel that way even if I didn't get the special discount rate. And through it all long live wades.

Edited August 11, 2014 by oltoot

[kseidel]

What oz kangaroo lace does everybody recommend to lace up swells?

Thanks in advance

Kangaroo does not come in much variety of weights. It does, however, come in different tannages and finishes. I recommend vega tanned and finished weight will be about 1½ - 2 oz.

[screed]

Thanks guys

[rktaylor]

I already messed this cover up, but decided to use it to practice welts. Since my welt is not very good, it looks like I made a wise decision. That doesn't happen often. I tried to keep the welt as low as I could and I know I am not as tight at the top as I would like to be. The part that concerns me is the bottom. My kneejerk reaction is that the bottom is wrong, but maybe the top is keeping the bottom from being tight. Thanks for any help.

Randy

[kseidel]

Randy,

Sorry for delaying a reply. I have been out of contact for a week. Your welt is basically correct. The bottom is fine. The top should be tighter. When cutting the swell before installing the welts, cut your top at more of a taper angle into the top of the welt. This will allow a smoother transition from welt to smooth swell. The bottom does not need to be any tighter than you have it. You can easilly press out the space that you have and fit it tight to the tree. Remember, many times we sweat a swell on without any welts, so we have to work all of the slack out the bottom. One more thing, don't fold over the top of the welt inside the swell cover, leave it long and wide. This will hide any tree that might show thru, and help with a smooth transition.

Keith

Edited September 9, 2014 by kseidel

[rktaylor]

Keith,

Thanks for the feedback. I did the other side of the cover and I think it is much better. It is tighter at the top and bottom. I need to make sure I get a better stitch line along the welt so it is more uniform. I wasn't paying enough attention, because I knew it was just practice. I re-read the section in Harry Adams' book. It makes more sense after a little practical experience. At least now, I have a better idea of how to fit the whole swell cover and the little things that I need to focus on.

Right now I have to finish my design for the cantle back so I can tool it. Then I will get back on the swell cover. I might even make some spur straps in between to rest my mind.

Randy