Finishing backside of belt

[BrainTannedKiwi]

Hey guys getting pretty deep into beltmaking with embossing rollers and one thing im stuck on is what to do about the back, first things first id rather not stitch it as i like the look of the flesh side when done nicely. 

#1 Best way keep backside nice when I'm dyeing and antiquing everything? Ive been putting some masking tape on just wondering if theres a better way.

#2 The leather im getting can get quite fluffy and ive been sanding it off with my mini belt sander but its a right mess and makes the back look and feel quite uneven, I was thinking of buying a thicker side and getting a little splitter from china and split it at the end after dyeing so its nice and clean would that be a good idea?

#What should I use to finish it? I've been using gum trag and the flat end of my burnisher, it works but wrinkles up a lot and does look to great.

Thanks heaps any info will be super useful!

Also this was made from a 3d printed roller, quite impressed!

Edited April 17 by BrainTannedKiwi

[Doc Reaper]

I split off the fuzzy with a splitter, then use gum trag, or just let it be

[TomE]

A glass slicker is useful for burnishing the flesh slide with wax, glue, etc.  Loose fibers on the back side might indicate a loose structure overall that makes for a weak, stretchy strap.  I mostly use bridle leather with a moss-back (pasted back).  A flexible, pasted back can be created with this product that I use if I split the back off bridle leather.  It is sold in quarts and gallons.  https://campbell-randall.com/product/sup-bt639-g-leather-finish-for-sealing-flesh-side-moss-back-suede-1-gal

[Dwight]

I've been lately able to get the thickness I like for belts . . . but when I can't . . . my little splitter I bought from Tandy some 10 or 12 yrs ago . . . is the go to route.

I cut the blank long enough that I've got the ability to grab the end with vise grips . . . and I run the whole thing thru the splitter . . . gets as good an edge as any of the more expensive veg tan you might buy.

The only thing is . . . ya gotta keep it sharp . . . and you need to grease it after using it . . . then wipe it down and run a 6 inch piece of scrap thru it before your belt blank . . . to take off any grease you missed.

Slicking and sanding works . . . but THIS is so much better and easier.

You will have to learn how to sharpen it and how to strop it though

May God bless,

Dwight

[BrainTannedKiwi]

What thickness do you start off with and what thickness do you split down too, Ive been getting double shoulder 3.5mm place near me sells 3.8 and 4.32mm double butt

[BrainTannedKiwi]

18 hours ago, TomE said:

A glass slicker is useful for burnishing the flesh slide with wax, glue, etc.  Loose fibers on the back side might indicate a loose structure overall that makes for a weak, stretchy strap.  I mostly use bridle leather with a moss-back (pasted back).  A flexible, pasted back can be created with this product that I use if I split the back off bridle leather.  It is sold in quarts and gallons.  https://campbell-randall.com/product/sup-bt639-g-leather-finish-for-sealing-flesh-side-moss-back-suede-1-gal

Thats good to know, might be a mission getting it in NZ haha, also Ive been hand dyeing and finishing all my belts so buying natural stuff is always preferable for me, will need to get a glass slicker, what wax do you use?

[BrainTannedKiwi]

18 hours ago, Dwight said:

I've been lately able to get the thickness I like for belts . . . but when I can't . . . my little splitter I bought from Tandy some 10 or 12 yrs ago . . . is the go to route.

I cut the blank long enough that I've got the ability to grab the end with vise grips . . . and I run the whole thing thru the splitter . . . gets as good an edge as any of the more expensive veg tan you might buy.

The only thing is . . . ya gotta keep it sharp . . . and you need to grease it after using it . . . then wipe it down and run a 6 inch piece of scrap thru it before your belt blank . . . to take off any grease you missed.

Slicking and sanding works . . . but THIS is so much better and easier.

You will have to learn how to sharpen it and how to strop it though

May God bless,

Dwight

Im an apprentice at a machine shop so keeping it sharp and oiled shouldnt be a problem! Thinking of getting a cheapo one from aliexpress as i dont need much width, splitting it will serve a double purpose because it means i can be a bit messy with antique then just split it off at the end right?

[TomE]

4 hours ago, BrainTannedKiwi said:

Thats good to know, might be a mission getting it in NZ haha, also Ive been hand dyeing and finishing all my belts so buying natural stuff is always preferable for me, will need to get a glass slicker, what wax do you use?

Beeswax applied with heat and slicking, or a waxy conditioner like Fiebings Aussie.

[chuck123wapati]

line it. that's the next step up to a quality belt.

6 hours ago, BrainTannedKiwi said:

Im an apprentice at a machine shop

then build one! that's how i got mine lol.

[BrainTannedKiwi]

On 4/19/2024 at 1:15 AM, chuck123wapati said:

line it. that's the next step up to a quality belt.

then build one! that's how i got mine lol.

Wow well done, do you have the drawings for this?

[chuck123wapati]

9 hours ago, BrainTannedKiwi said:

Wow well done, do you have the drawings for this?

I didn't keep the chicken scratch i call plans it was one sheet of a basic idea drawn out. I knid of build as I go lol but I have a few pictures i could show you The main roller and shaft are taken out of an auto shock absorber. 

[AlZilla]

2 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

The main roller and shaft are taken out of an auto shock absorber. 

A master stroke of scrounging genius.