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Regis

Delrin swivel knife blade?

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Picked up few used tools today and one was a swivel knife but, rather than a normal blade, it had a delrin (nylon-like) tip. It is rounded, blunt nosed on one side and straight edge on other. Looks like it was purposely made to use in the swivel knife. Don't see it in the catalogs that I have.

Any ideas? Perhaps intended to carve some pattern in or??

Curious,

Regis

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Picked up few used tools today and one was a swivel knife but, rather than a normal blade, it had a delrin (nylon-like) tip. It is rounded, blunt nosed on one side and straight edge on other. Looks like it was purposely made to use in the swivel knife. Don't see it in the catalogs that I have.

Any ideas? Perhaps intended to carve some pattern in or??

Curious,

Regis

Tandy used to sell those. Kind of speed beveler for long straight cuts like borders on belts etc. Stick the straight edge in the cut and pull or push it to bevel the line. Can also be used to smooth out rough beveling.

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Clay is right about those. I actually have an earlier one in metal, called an 'easy beveler' (I think is the name, anyway). Not a particularly effective tool- certainly never could equal the depth of a real, mallet-driven beveler. This is why they're not manufactured today. You could probably get greater definition with any standard modeling tool, and you don't need the swivel knife part to use it. Made to sell, but not too practical in the :rolleyes: real world

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Well, I'll just have to set that on a shelf then as a conversation piece. The extra swivel knife is good to have anyway.

Thanks for lettin' me know what it is/was.

Regis

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Hello I have one of those and use mine all the time. If I am going to use a border tool on the edge of a project I run it down the edge 1st . I like to do this 1st when the leather is not as dry as when I bevel with a tool. Then I cut the rest of my pattern. For no longer than it takes to run down the end it provides a nice guideline for beveling also. I also made one out of a F-895 that I use for figure carving. I can make light impressions for a guide line or if I don't like my 1st choice of where to stamp I don't have to live with it.

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I was thinkin' what Dan said when I read your opening post. It's one of those why didn't I think of that things. Sounds to me like you've got a free-hand creaser! Get those stitches below surface level so they don't abraid and you don't gouge into the strongest part of the hide grain side. A file and an inexpensive TLF swvl/knife blade and I've got one too. I guess you can blunt one of those Henley blades too ... lol!

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