Italian Purse needs Repair

[c2369zulu]

Hello All,

Haven't posted in a while.

Anyone know the best way to repair the shoulder strap attachments for this Italian purse? The leather seems to be pretty thin. Unfortunately there is a liner and it appears machine stitched. Thoughts?

Edited September 24 by c2369zulu

[RidgebackCustoms]

First instinct, I'd punch out the rivet on both sides and replace both (so that they match).  Find a leather of similar consistency/color for the repair.

If it is for personal use/non-professional repair, I'd use a 29 series sewing machine with a swiveling head to stitch the repair on and through the liner.  It will look a little rough on the inside of the purse, but the outside will look the same.

Otherwise you would have to pop the stitches around the liner to do the same repair, but then have to put the liner back the way it was.  Lots of work for something that's only on the inside.

I'd be curious to see what the good side looks like.

Edited September 24 by RidgebackCustoms

[DieselTech]

I would do as Ridgeback suggested. I think the reason that strap broke, was because they sewed across the top of the strap above the rivet.

[c2369zulu]

Thanks for responses!

This purse belongs to a friend's sister. She got it earlier in the year I think. Sentimental to her he said. Unfortunately, I do not have any sewing machines anymore. I sold my Cobra Class 4 a few years back, but it would have been a bit large for this type of repair I think. I typically just use the blue band Weaver stitching chisels these days, and they are a bit big for this repair. Not sure what to do. It really should be professionally repaired, but that could be pricey I suspect. I had planned on something similar to what Ridgeback says, but I don't have the proper equipment, thread, or leather type on hand.

Ridgeback, Here is the other side.

[Mablung]

Is using a small-blade awl an option? More difficult than using stitching chisels but probably the method to use to do this repair by hand. Most awl blades are a good bit larger than that thread size, though, so it may be difficult, I grant. 

[c2369zulu]

55 minutes ago, Mablung said:

Is using a small-blade awl an option? More difficult than using stitching chisels but probably the method to use to do this repair by hand. Most awl blades are a good bit larger than that thread size, though, so it may be difficult, I grant. 

My only concern with any repair (without removing the liner), is the liner moving around and the repair holes getting wonky if punched through the leather and liner as well. Wish it was at least glued in or something to keep it in place. I don't have any awls that would work I don't think...

[bland]

If it was me, I would remove the liner or at least pick out a few stitches on each end.  Then you can do your repairs stitching and riveting the strap attachments and it won't show on the inside.  Then restitching the liner.  

I would pick out the top seam on the liner where both pieces are leather.  That is the easiest way to get it back in looking good.  Good luck!

Edited September 24 by bland
added content

[TonyV]

1 hour ago, bland said:

If it was me, I would remove the liner or at least pick out a few stitches on each end.  Then you can do your repairs stitching and riveting the strap attachments and it won't show on the inside.  Then restitching the liner.  

I would pick out the top seam on the liner where both pieces are leather.  That is the easiest way to get it back in looking good.  Good luck!

This.   Don't be nervous about sewing the fabric back to the leather.  Sewing fabric to leather is really not much different to sewing leather to leather, plus you have the option of using pins to hold the fabric in place while sewing, without leaving a mark.

The Weaver blue band chisels are spaced at 5mm.   I think 4mm spacing (yellow band) would work well on this project.  But you don't have to buy a new set!  Just use the spacing you have on existing stitches to make a small template to mark the spacing, then you can use the single-point chisel that you likely already have to make your holes one at a time.  Yes, that's slow, so it gives you a good excuse to buy a new set of chisels        As for not having the matching leather, you might find a belt or purse at a Goodwill store that fills the bill for a buck or 2.

[AlZilla]

I think the challenge in front of you is going to be matching the existing thread if you want an invisible repair.

[bland]

Leather Machine Co, Toledo Industrial, other advertisers on this site, an Amazon search or trip to a local industrial sewing shop will give you many sizes and colors to choose from.  You can get a 1 oz or larger spool/cone.  ~ $7-10 for the 1 oz.

Below is from just a sample of an Amazon search.  Toledo industrial has an even larger selection of colors.  Even if you are sewing by hand sewing machine thread works well and will match the thread on the purse.  Colors will generally sew in and look a little lighter than when it is on the spool/cone.  

When the liner was dropped into this purse it was sewn in on this top seam.  So, to me that is the way to go.  To me it is easier to sew if you can see both sides to saddle stitch or lock stitch with a Speedy Stitcher or similar.  You should be able to match up and use the same stitching holes when putting it back together.  

[c2369zulu]

16 hours ago, bland said:

If it was me, I would remove the liner or at least pick out a few stitches on each end.  Then you can do your repairs stitching and riveting the strap attachments and it won't show on the inside.  Then restitching the liner.  

I would pick out the top seam on the liner where both pieces are leather.  That is the easiest way to get it back in looking good.  Good luck!

Thanks for the suggestion!

10 hours ago, AlZilla said:

I think the challenge in front of you is going to be matching the existing thread if you want an invisible repair.

I'll definitely need to get a similar color. I think I have a Havana Brown in Tiger Thread, but not a light brown/beige.

[c2369zulu]

7 hours ago, bland said:

Leather Machine Co, Toledo Industrial, other advertisers on this site, an Amazon search or trip to a local industrial sewing shop will give you many sizes and colors to choose from.  You can get a 1 oz or larger spool/cone.  ~ $7-10 for the 1 oz.

Below is from just a sample of an Amazon search.  Toledo industrial has an even larger selection of colors.  Even if you are sewing by hand sewing machine thread works well and will match the thread on the purse.  Colors will generally sew in and look a little lighter than when it is on the spool/cone.  

When the liner was dropped into this purse it was sewn in on this top seam.  So, to me that is the way to go.  To me it is easier to sew if you can see both sides to saddle stitch or lock stitch with a Speedy Stitcher or similar.  You should be able to match up and use the same stitching holes when putting it back together.  

So do you think the whole liner and upper inside rolled leather edge pieces were dropped in at once, then sewed around the whole perimeter at once? Could be the way to go to remove perimeter stitch altogether and restitch back after repair.

[c2369zulu]

15 hours ago, TonyV said:

This.   Don't be nervous about sewing the fabric back to the leather.  Sewing fabric to leather is really not much different to sewing leather to leather, plus you have the option of using pins to hold the fabric in place while sewing, without leaving a mark.

The Weaver blue band chisels are spaced at 5mm.   I think 4mm spacing (yellow band) would work well on this project.  But you don't have to buy a new set!  Just use the spacing you have on existing stitches to make a small template to mark the spacing, then you can use the single-point chisel that you likely already have to make your holes one at a time.  Yes, that's slow, so it gives you a good excuse to buy a new set of chisels        As for not having the matching leather, you might find a belt or purse at a Goodwill store that fills the bill for a buck or 2.

Agreed. 

My friend has the purse back min possession for now. Not sure what type of leather was used for an Italian build, but I figure a pull up leather may be too stretchy. Thin veg tanned maybe? She wants a stronger attachment point put back and does not care about type of leather, color or style I hear.

[RidgebackCustoms]

56 minutes ago, c2369zulu said:

Not sure what type of leather was used for an Italian build,

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has a fair assortment of Italian leathers.  You can order $1 sample sizes too to do color comparison.  

Maybe try the conceria Walpier Buttero in Chestnut.

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/copy-of-conceria-walpier-buttero-veg-tanned-leather-18-colors-3-oz-1-2mm-for-full-inventory?_pos=2&_psq=buttero&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=39903324766317

[DieselTech]

2 hours ago, RidgebackCustoms said:

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has a fair assortment of Italian leathers.  You can order $1 sample sizes too to do color comparison.  

Maybe try the conceria Walpier Buttero in Chestnut.

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/copy-of-conceria-walpier-buttero-veg-tanned-leather-18-colors-3-oz-1-2mm-for-full-inventory?_pos=2&_psq=buttero&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=39903324766317

Ridgeback beat me to it. But I was also going to recommend Conceria Walpier Buttero in Chestnut.. 

It is some very nice leather & would be great for that. 

[bland]

15 hours ago, c2369zulu said:

So do you think the whole liner and upper inside rolled leather edge pieces were dropped in at once, then sewed around the whole perimeter at once? Could be the way to go to remove perimeter stitch altogether and restitch back after repair.

Yes,  the liner is assembled and then dropped in as a unit.  I think that is the way to go.  

[c2369zulu]

On 9/25/2024 at 9:21 AM, RidgebackCustoms said:

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has a fair assortment of Italian leathers.  You can order $1 sample sizes too to do color comparison.  

Maybe try the conceria Walpier Buttero in Chestnut.

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/copy-of-conceria-walpier-buttero-veg-tanned-leather-18-colors-3-oz-1-2mm-for-full-inventory?_pos=2&_psq=buttero&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=39903324766317

Thanks for the suggestion!

On 9/25/2024 at 11:48 AM, DieselTech said:

Ridgeback beat me to it. But I was also going to recommend Conceria Walpier Buttero in Chestnut.. 

It is some very nice leather & would be great for that. 

Thank you. WIll take a look.

On 9/25/2024 at 11:59 PM, bland said:

Yes,  the liner is assembled and then dropped in as a unit.  I think that is the way to go.  

Thanks again!

[pengkegu]

I think you need to remove the stitches above the rivet, but not too many—about 5 stitches should be enough. Try to remove the rivet with a tool without causing damage. Make a piece of leather in the same shape and sew it on. I believe using a French round pricking iron with a spacing of around 3.85 mm should achieve the same effect as the original. The difficulty lies in finding leather of the same color, which is challenging because your bag has oxidized. Additionally, the edge paint will also need repair.”