Medieval leatherworking and dyeing

[3ntin]

Good evenind everyone, I am doing some research on the topic of medieval leatherworking, especially how they tanned and dyed the leather. I am in the process of making some scabbards for swords with historically accurate technique, and most visual sources indicate that they were colored, and archaeological evidences show that they are predomimantly wrapped in leather (though fabric covered ones are present).

With my reenactment group we tried to dye leather using techniques and materials from fabric dyeing, with poor results. The only good result we achieved was black with vinegar and iron.

I am asking mainly sources of any type, but with a preference for books and written sources. Also books from the 18th or 19th Century will do, I bet techniques haven't changed much...

[dikman]

I can't help with any books/sources but brown stain made from walnut husks is likely to have been used as there's nothing complicated about making it, all you need are walnuts!

[DaleksInc]

Fancy dyes such as we have and use nowadays were very difficult (and in some cases impossible) to do properly back then. Most of the time, leather was either left undyed (darkened only by whatever oils etc. were used to condition it), dyed/antiqued with the walnut stain @dikman mentioned, or vinegarooned (the vinegar + iron method you talked about). From what I understand, it was possible to get a dark green or purple, but this was very rare and expensive, as it was done as part of the tanning process (don't quote me on this, though; I haven't researched it in depth).

If you are seeking historical accuracy (which I am assuming is the case, given your mention of reenacting), I recommend just going with natural color or vinegaroon black. That said, I recommend doing some more research; I mostly do 1800s reenacting, so my Medieval knowledge is somewhat limited.

[Prusty]

I have some documents from when I did 12th century reenactment that cover dying methods. One I believe is called the Mappae Clavicula which if I remember right is from 820ce. I will look up my old research links later and link then here if that’ll be of help.

But fair warning, most of the dyes involved stale urine and a good number involved animal faeces. 

[Sheilajeanne]

On 10/17/2024 at 5:39 PM, dikman said:

I can't help with any books/sources but brown stain made from walnut husks is likely to have been used as there's nothing complicated about making it, all you need are walnuts!

Having harvested native black walnuts for eating, I've had a bit of experience with them. You need to let them sit until the husks are rotting off the nuts, as peeling each individual nut is very time-consuming when the husk is still tight to the nut. Walnuts contain a toxin name juglone, so you will want to protect your skin from it. It will also dye your skin a beautiful shade of brown...ask me how I know! 

As for the eating part, you need to wait until Christmas before eating them, as they are mildly toxic before then. Cracking them open is extremely difficult - we wound up putting them in the vice on the workbench and turning the handle until they cracked under the pressure, and bits went flying all over the room. 

It really wasn't worth the effort for the small amount of meat you got from the nuts. We did find a use for the uncracked nuts, though. They made absolutely indestructible cat toys! 

[TonyV]

ON Gutenberg.org there are a few books published in the 19th and early 20th centuries dealing with leather tanning. Some get quite scientific.  You will find that the principles of tanning really haven't changed all that much over the centuries, mostly the equipment and techniques have been modernised.  For example, tumbling drums might have been powered by water mill,  men or mules 800 years ago, powered by steam 200 years ago, electricity 100 years ago, but the tumblers are very similar, built of wood 800 years ago, now built of metal.

Dyeing was, of course, done with natural dyes like walnut and other vegetable dyes, vinegaroon, perhaps some mineral dyes, or painted with the paints and tints of the time.  The paints used on a shield would likely be the same paints used on the scabbard.  Dyeing would have been a very expensive option to one buying leather.  Don't forget that oiling a piece of leather will darken it quite well, making a dye unnecessary in many cases.  Gutenberg has old books on dyeing, as well.  'Dyes and Dyeing' by Viscount Exmouth Charles Pellew has a chapter devoted to leather staining and dyeing.  Mentions acid dyeing for different colors.

 

 

Edited March 2 by TonyV

[dikman]

Sheilajeanne, you must have a very different type of walnut than my tree as mine are pretty easy to crack, unlike my macadamia nuts, the only way I can crack them is in a vice! In fact there is only one bird that can crack them and that is the Black Cockatoo (must have one hell of a strong beak!!!). The White Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, on the other hand, do a great job of stripping my walnut tree. And yes, the ripened husks stain hands wonderfully!

As DaleksInc said I suspect most leather goods way back then were just left to age darken naturally.

Edited March 2 by dikman