LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted 5 hours ago So... I'm hoping this isn't too much of a daft question after the lengthy back story... But... I've had a friend of mine ask me to push my still fairly limited skillset and build them a holster and drop gun belt for a replica Colt .45 SAA single action pistol (his description based on the replica he has provided me to work with, looks like a cowboy gun to me as i'm not a pistol person). I have followed a couple of very detailed descriptions on how to template and assemble the holster and have been somewhat successful... however, with both methods used after some gentle wet forming around the replica firearms the pistol is rather firm to both insert and remove from the holster unlike what I see in movie magic or the youtube gunslingers. I can hold the holster upside down and shake it quite vigorously without the pistol coming out. I will be remodelling the template anyway as it looks a little wobbly in places and I am planning on lining the holster for the final build so will require a touch more space. My question is this, how tight is too tight for a holster? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bland Report post Posted 4 hours ago If it is a western style, you do not want to wet mold it very tight. Al Stohlman, Will Gohrmley , and many others have patterns out there. There are several YouTube videos on the subject. There are several threads on this forum to assist you. Search the posts on the forum. Most will have a hammer thong to hold the revolver in the holster in place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted 4 hours ago Many thanks Bland, not nearly that tight is the answer For one mock up I did follow a very in depth methodology from somewhere on this site (unfortunately I cant remember who to give credit) but it came out fairly tight just as the non LWN method did... so wanted to check if that was the norm, which I now understand is not the case... Maybe i'm doing something fundamentally wrong! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlackDragon Report post Posted 4 hours ago Thightness depends on function. If your friend wants a quick draw holster then you dont want it tight at all. If its standard carrying holster you want it a little snug but you dont want it to lock in. Normally with western holsters you dont have to wet mold, although people do. When you make the holster you make a retention strap to hold the pistol in place Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted 3 hours ago Thanks BlackDragon for the expansion. Just to double check my understanding then, majority of the retention is provided by the hammer thong or strap? and I have to get on to my friend for his exact thoughts on usage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mablung Report post Posted 3 hours ago 9 minutes ago, LRBespokeGoods said: Thanks BlackDragon for the expansion. Just to double check my understanding then, majority of the retention is provided by the hammer thong or strap? and I have to get on to my friend for his exact thoughts on usage. If he wants the holster to be something of a replica of a holster in use at the time the original pistols were used, you’re correct. Holsters like that are not “boned” (wet-molded to the creases and contours of the pistol), unlike most holsters made now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted 3 hours ago Thank you all for your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted 3 hours ago put it on a belt and try it. It should come out smoothly with no hangup. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted 3 hours ago you wet mold this type around the cylinder and trigger guard only, the gun should slip in easily/ fall into place but still fit snugly so the blueing isn't worn off by jostling around. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites