LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted October 31 So... I'm hoping this isn't too much of a daft question after the lengthy back story... But... I've had a friend of mine ask me to push my still fairly limited skillset and build them a holster and drop gun belt for a replica Colt .45 SAA single action pistol (his description based on the replica he has provided me to work with, looks like a cowboy gun to me as i'm not a pistol person). I have followed a couple of very detailed descriptions on how to template and assemble the holster and have been somewhat successful... however, with both methods used after some gentle wet forming around the replica firearms the pistol is rather firm to both insert and remove from the holster unlike what I see in movie magic or the youtube gunslingers. I can hold the holster upside down and shake it quite vigorously without the pistol coming out. I will be remodelling the template anyway as it looks a little wobbly in places and I am planning on lining the holster for the final build so will require a touch more space. My question is this, how tight is too tight for a holster? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bland Report post Posted October 31 If it is a western style, you do not want to wet mold it very tight. Al Stohlman, Will Gohrmley , and many others have patterns out there. There are several YouTube videos on the subject. There are several threads on this forum to assist you. Search the posts on the forum. Most will have a hammer thong to hold the revolver in the holster in place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted October 31 Many thanks Bland, not nearly that tight is the answer For one mock up I did follow a very in depth methodology from somewhere on this site (unfortunately I cant remember who to give credit) but it came out fairly tight just as the non LWN method did... so wanted to check if that was the norm, which I now understand is not the case... Maybe i'm doing something fundamentally wrong! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlackDragon Report post Posted October 31 Thightness depends on function. If your friend wants a quick draw holster then you dont want it tight at all. If its standard carrying holster you want it a little snug but you dont want it to lock in. Normally with western holsters you dont have to wet mold, although people do. When you make the holster you make a retention strap to hold the pistol in place Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted October 31 Thanks BlackDragon for the expansion. Just to double check my understanding then, majority of the retention is provided by the hammer thong or strap? and I have to get on to my friend for his exact thoughts on usage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mablung Report post Posted October 31 9 minutes ago, LRBespokeGoods said: Thanks BlackDragon for the expansion. Just to double check my understanding then, majority of the retention is provided by the hammer thong or strap? and I have to get on to my friend for his exact thoughts on usage. If he wants the holster to be something of a replica of a holster in use at the time the original pistols were used, you’re correct. Holsters like that are not “boned” (wet-molded to the creases and contours of the pistol), unlike most holsters made now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted October 31 Thank you all for your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted October 31 put it on a belt and try it. It should come out smoothly with no hangup. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted October 31 you wet mold this type around the cylinder and trigger guard only, the gun should slip in easily/ fall into place but still fit snugly so the blueing isn't worn off by jostling around. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted October 31 What do you mean by "drop gun belt"? Buscadero style? If you want it to be historically accurate then the only wet molding is to fold the leather around the revolver in order to line up the edges for stitching. I wrap the revolver in a couple of layers of cloth (to give it a bit of bulk) and then in clingwrap to keep the revolver dry, wet the stitched holster and force the revolver in then as the leather dries keep wriggling/twisting it. This should ensure there is minimal retention. There's probably other ways but this has worked for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LRBespokeGoods Report post Posted October 31 Thank you Dikman, I wasn't aware that was the correct name for the belt but is what we were thinking of. I can't wait to get something built to try out everyone's suggestions! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlZilla Report post Posted November 1 You're getting to make the whole rig, and I'm jealous. I love all that western gear and have no need of it. I did make a couple of holsters that sit 4 or so inches below the belt. I like it a hell of a lot better than a regular belt holster. Just ask the end user what he wants for retention. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handstitched Report post Posted November 8 Al Stohlmans holsters pattern book is a great book to have ,I enjoyed making some of them , even just for the experience and for show, but no too many people are interested in the 'western style holsters' these days, and not to go too off topic, but gun laws are very tight here, and here in the west of Oz, they just got tighter. HS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites