ethereal Report post Posted December 6 (edited) Please see the attached photo. When I stitch using my pfaff145 h3, my bobbin thread comes out shorter than my top thread. Can anyone give insight as to how I can make my bobbin thread come out looking the same as my top thread? I am using Size 110/18 needle TRI needle with T70 thread in both the top and the bobbin Edited December 6 by ethereal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ethereal Report post Posted December 6 @Uwe @Wizcrafts Thought either of you might have some insight given your responses on my previous posts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted December 6 @ethereal, if that's a piece of canvas, or denim, lose the tri-point needle and use a simple round point. The tri-points are for leather. They, like most other leather point configurations, will never look anywhere near the same on the top and bottom. Leather points tend to slice and rip the fibers in synthetics and regular cloth. Anything woven, or embroidered can be damaged by leather point needles. Once you get the round point needles, play with the top and bottom tensions until the knots are evenly hidden in the material. At that point the stitches will look as close as they ever will, for that machine. Also, play with the position of the check spring disk set screw in the curved slot. Some manuals refer to this adjuster as the thread control adjuster. It adds or subtracts some slack in the top thread to tighten or loosen the lay of the stitches. A looser stitch may look more uniform on the top and bottom. In fact, running with less overall tension usually makes for a prettier stitch appearance in cloth or light weight leather. Thin and soft leather can easily pucker if the top or bottom tensions are too strong. This distorts the lay of the thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ethereal Report post Posted December 7 18 hours ago, Wizcrafts said: @ethereal, if that's a piece of canvas, or denim, lose the tri-point needle and use a simple round point. The tri-points are for leather. They, like most other leather point configurations, will never look anywhere near the same on the top and bottom. Leather points tend to slice and rip the fibers in synthetics and regular cloth. Anything woven, or embroidered can be damaged by leather point needles. Once you get the round point needles, play with the top and bottom tensions until the knots are evenly hidden in the material. At that point the stitches will look as close as they ever will, for that machine. Also, play with the position of the check spring disk set screw in the curved slot. Some manuals refer to this adjuster as the thread control adjuster. It adds or subtracts some slack in the top thread to tighten or loosen the lay of the stitches. A looser stitch may look more uniform on the top and bottom. In fact, running with less overall tension usually makes for a prettier stitch appearance in cloth or light weight leather. Thin and soft leather can easily pucker if the top or bottom tensions are too strong. This distorts the lay of the thread. Will look into this. Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted December 7 Both tensions are too tight,alot of people like to see a stitch like this in leather(were it pulls in tightly) so it doesn't lay on the outside of the material to get rubbed against & cause the thread to wear through. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites