Stitching Question

[Gridix]

Good Morning All,

 

I was just wondering if I could get a little advice. I currently have these Chisels (I am returning them for a set on Buckleguy), however Whenever I stitch, my needle gets stuck when it gets to the thread. Is this due to the chisels im using or could it be due to the size of the needle thread?

 

These are the needles / thread im using:

 

It seems when I watch others sew on youtube that their needle/thread goes right through no problem.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Josh

 

PS these are the chisels I have on order:

[chuck123wapati]

It's because you do not know this simple secret. Use your needles to stretch the hole. As the first needle gets about halfway through, stop and wiggle it up and down rather aggressively. This will stretch and enlarge the hole enough so your thread and needle will go through easily.  

[Gridix]

Wow really thats it ? I am going to try this on some scrap when I get home today. 

[Beehive]

I use a 1/0 needle with .08mm thread. I also use 002. The bigger needle makes a path for the thread, 'knots'. I've also used 004 needles with .08mm thread. But the smaller needle stabs the thread much more easy. 

As for the Buckle guy pricking irons. I have two sets. 3.85 and 3.38. 9 tine, 4, 2, and a single tine. The most used is the two tine and nine tine. I rarely use the four tine. 

Here's a tip. Lets say you're using the 3.85 and you get to an end or corner. The 3.38 will be needed to space the holes. In other words, I use both SPI on the same project. Same with using the 3.38. Sometimes the 3.85 will be needed to reach a corner. 

You'll need the single tine. Think of it as the correct sized Awl. 

 

 

[Gridix]

Thanks for the insite on the irons. Trying to pick things up in moderation. It gets quite pricey quick!

[Beehive]

The buckleguy ones are solid. Among my projects is a ranger belt. 8-10oz Wicket and Craig veg tanned. Lined with 4-5oz Horween cavalier in red. ~6mm thick. 

I use a 32oz maul to drive the 9 tine. 16oz maul to drive the 2 tine. 

 

So far, I'm happy with them. They've stayed sharp. I looked up the metal they're using. High impact resistant tool steel. Made to be pounded on. 

[Gridix]

So the other day I was using the amazon ones, and it was going through 3 layers of 4ish oz veg tanned leather, I could barely get the darn thing pulled out of the leather!

[Beehive]

Rub the points with wax. Either white wax or a beeswax and white wax mix.

 

They sell little pieces of flat metal with a slot in it. The trick, don't pull the iron out the leather. Instead, push the leather off the tines. Once you're through. Scoot it over on the pad. Push the leather down. 

Also, make sure you're not going too deep. All you need is about a half of mm of the teeth poking through. 

[billybopp]

In general, you WANT the stitch holes to be as tight as possible while still stitchable ( is that a word)?   Make sure the chisels are going all the way through, so that the back-side is up onto the tines - past the point so that it's fully open.  As mentioned by @chuck123wapati, you can wiggle the needle a bit to stretch the hole some, as it will have shrunk back some after it was punched.  When you thread the needle, double or even triple pierce the thread to help keep the "knot" an inch or so behind they eye of the needle.  If the knot creeps up to the eye, it'll be far more difficult to pull through.

Hope that helps!

- Bill

[Beehive]

With the French style pricking irons. By nature, one side will be a bigger hole because they're wedged shaped. But after you've stitched. Pounding or rolling the stitch line will compress the entry holes tight. 

It's also why you don't roll the holes until after you've stitched. Rolling the holes before you stitch makes for a difficult time passing the needle through. With you ending up having to  use the pliers you super glued leather on the jaws.