Stitching Question

[Beehive]

Using the French style irons. You can adjust the size of the hole. Depending on leather thickness. Hammering it through 5-6mm thickness. Leather weight that requires a bigger diameter thread. It'll do it. 

Thinner weight like 4-5oz. The wedge shape does the same. It'll make the correct sized hole. 

As for needle size. The maker can recommend anything they want. Their job is to sell you needles. Giving a general guild line.

But since this is all custom. If I use a 004 needle with any thread that fit through the eye. Even though it'll make the stitch line look like a one hour craft class. I promise, nobody is going to show up at your door to slap your hand. 

Consider the John James range. Both a 002 needle and a 1/0 needle can be used with 1mm thread. By their own words. I take that as a guild line. Whatever works for You. Whatever will get the job done. Whatever will lay the best looking stitch. 

[Gridix]

On 1/28/2025 at 9:08 AM, SUP said:

I often punch my stitching holes on a slab of old wax. I just melt candles, odorless ones, in an old pan and and let it cool. This makes a good base and the chisel ends go into the wax and slip out smoothly. Whenever the wax gets too rough on the surface, just melt and cool again. This is usually on thicker leathers or multi layered ones.

So you are saying that you literally lay your item on the wax and punch right into the way like a rubber punch pad or something like that ?

[fredk]

yes, exactly that

here's a boring photo of my wax block

A 150mm/6 inch ruler laid on it

Edited January 29 by fredk

[SUP]

I do exactly that. I got the idea from @fredk and I think @Sheilajeanne said she used the same too.

Sometimes, I put a sheet of paper in between the wax and the leather to prevent sundry wax particles from sticking onto the flesh side of the leather.

 

[Sheilajeanne]

Sup, it was Fred, not me. I use a thick piece of belly leather to punch into after a plastic cutting board damaged my stitching irons.

When stitching, the only thing I use wax for is beeswax to keep fake sinew thread from separating. 

[Beehive]

I prefer the thick vinyl laying on top a block of granite. I've used a few various surfaces. I find the Weaver poundo pad to be way too soft. You're not supposed to hammer into poly unless it's a cheapo hole punch. 

Only issue with the vinyl pads. They come with sharp edges and corners. Leather hanging off the side will and does get gouged. 150grit sandpaper to the rescue. Now, every side and corner is smooth. 

Stitched one pocket of the book cover. I used cigar color for thread. It goes nicely with the brown. Only took me about an hour and 30minutes to complete the stitch. 3.85mm spacing. .080 mm diameter. 002 needle. 

I need to take a break and build me another stitching pony. I need one with a deeper throat then the other two I have. I have some ash lumber laying around. I also need to make four conchos. 

All in good time. No rush at all. 

[SUP]

@Sheilajeanne Oops! I remember it was @fredk But I thought there was a second person who mentioned it too and I thought it was you. Maybe I'm wrong and I got some other idea from two people...... Anyway,  It is very convenient. Great idea @fredk. Thank you for sharing. I use it all the time.

Sometimes I also use thick pads of leather splits. I got a few from Springfield Leather that are very thick. I flatten them and cut them to different sizes as I need. They work well. As they get holey, they get a bit limp and I discard them. They are inexpensive and easy to make. I use these for the thinner leathers.

Mainly though, I user well waxed thread - was looking up making coad today. Fun to do and I can wax my thread to the extent that I want. I do not much like Ritza... I know that goes against popular opinion but it appears to be too much a price for a product that I do not think is worth it. They also do not have as many colors as I would like. But then, maybe it is needed for the items that I do not make.

Edited February 5 by SUP

[toxo]

I think @Beehive is the only one that mentioned that some irons/chisels are wedge shaped. The harder you hit em the bigger the hole.

As far as waxing the tips, any wax will do, I've even used a block of soap. Running a thin piece along the stitch line is better than stabbing wax although using both ain't gonna hurt. An invention thought just popped into my head (happens all the time). What if you melted the wax and poured it into one of those little bottles with the tiny metal spout they us for paint and then drew it along the stitch line or better yet stitch groove?

My mother never bred no fool!

[fredk]

21 minutes ago, toxo said:

. . . An invention thought just popped into my head (happens all the time). What if you melted the wax and poured it into one of those little bottles with the tiny metal spout they us for paint and then drew it along the stitch line or better yet stitch groove?

And how do you keep it soft or liquid enuf to come out the wee spout?

Just asking for a friend, 

Edited February 6 by fredk

[toxo]

3 hours ago, fredk said:

And how do you keep it soft or liquid enuf to come out the wee spout?

Just asking for a friend, 

I think you're clever enough to work that out Fred. How do you keep your glazing iron hot? Heat pad maybe?  How long does it need to stay liquid for? Some waxes are thinner than others when liquid. Maybe a slightly bigger spout? Takes seconds to run a stitch line and it doesn't matter if it hardens once in place.