experience with tooling leather

[Regis]

I don't have much experience with tooling leather and am curious about quality. I've read everywhere that Hermann Oak is the best tooling leather so I orded a side of 5/6 at a good sale (hidecrafters). It is a lot better than the peices that I was buying here & there but, I don't really know what I have. Is this simply a lower grade or is it what I should expect with top grade and have to learn to work around.

Streaked-leather

Thanks,

Regis

[K-Man]

It depends on where the streaks end up on the holster and how deep they are. Leather is generally offered in different grades, i.e., A, B, C, D. From the looks of your picture, that's probably a C grade, a B grade at the very best. You also might be looking at an area that's down closer to the belly - an area you definitely want to stay away from for holster construction. Ideally you want the back and/or shoulder area. Some places will sell you a "back" where the belly and a bit above that is wacked off, so you're left with the better parts of the original side. Springfield Leather will do that. Also, if you order from Hide Crafter again - ask for them to send you an "A" grade or "B" grade piece - same thing with Springfield Leather.

If the streaks are mere marks, meaning there's no depth to them, then you should be fine. I personally stay away from any streaks/marks if at all possible. It just presents a much more professional appearance by doing that.

Hope this info helps.

[Regis]

The streakes definately go into the leather and not just surface color. I'm not up to making holster, yet but, I do have several handguns to work with. I'm mostly working on my carving BUT, the post last month about molding leather to custom fit a handgun really caught my attention.

Thanks,

Regis

[ClayB]

The streakes definately go into the leather and not just surface color. I'm not up to making holster, yet but, I do have several handguns to work with. I'm mostly working on my carving BUT, the post last month about molding leather to custom fit a handgun really caught my attention.

Thanks,

Regis

Regis,

It kind of looks like that area is the neck on the side of leather. If that is the case, there are going to be wrinkles in that area. On the live animal, the neck is always moving, up, down, side to side, so it has to be flexible. The neck and the belly areas of the hide are the least usable areas of the hide because they are stretchy. Sometimes stretchy leather can be useful. On the embossed pictures that I have been doing, leather closer to the belly that is stretchy works really well, because of the stretch. But you don't want to use it on anything that needs strength, like a strap. If you try to carve leather from the neck or the belly areas, it is going to stretch out of shape unless you attach it to cardboard, plastic or some other stiff backing material before you carve on it. I usually glue it to a piece of cardboard from an empty cereal box with rubber cement. Carving can cover up blemishes in leather, but make sure that the leather is suitable for your intended use first.

Hope this helps a little.

Clay

[Regis]

Clay,

I think you're right about this being neck area. There is much less in the center portion of the side. Guess it is good that I'm using this part to practice carving.

Thanks,

Regis

[bruce johnson]

Regis,

Clay is dead on about the leather being stretchier, and being an advantage in those places. I really kind of like deep necks on my sides. I look on it as another premium part of the side. If you orient the pattern right, things you normally would fold like a notebook or photoalbum are great cut from these places. Orient it so the folds in the notebook are parallel with the folds in the side. Then if the grain is a little too open (heavy hair cells, wrinkles, or whatever), slick it down. To slick it I use a piece of rounded over plastic cutting board, but you can buy commercial blockers or slickers. Just dampen the leather (I slather on some white saddle soap with a wet sponge) and rub firmly over the leather to compress the fibers. The leather should be wet enough not to burnish, and wet top to bottom to evenly compress. When folded the slightly looser fibers will fold easier than a denser part of the hide like the back or butt. I just finished up 25 wine list covers (3 ring binder notebook type) for a restaurant. The ones I cut out of the necks folded the best and stay the smoothest when opened flat. The denser parts has to be stretched slightly to close well, and wrinkle a bit at the fold areas when opened flat. I wish I could have used all necks, but economics rule - had to use some of those darn backs and butts too.

Bruce Johnson

[Regis]

Bruce,

That's a great tip about using the streak/stretch as advantage to enhance an area intended to flex. I'll have to work on that smoothing though because it shows through areas where I've only lightly tooled. When I dye & antique, I'll see if it absorbs evenly or shows.

Thanks again,

Regis

Edited February 23, 2007 by Regis

[K-Man]

Sorry about my comments with respect to streaks on a holster as being a little out of place. My brain somedays gets tunnel vision.

[CitizenKate]

Those are what I've heard called "fat wrinkles", and I love how they look on my game boards. (As do my customers.) I actually finish them to bring out those character lines. But as the others have pointed out, that section of the leather (usually close to the neck), is not ideal for all projects.

If any of you have a piece of leather with fat wrinkles that you don't want, if it's at least 22"x22", send it to me!

Kate

Edited March 16, 2007 by CitizenKate

[David Genadek]

I don't have much experience with tooling leather and am curious about quality. I've read everywhere that Hermann Oak is the best tooling leather so I orded a side of 5/6 at a good sale (hidecrafters). It is a lot better than the peices that I was buying here & there but, I don't really know what I have. Is this simply a lower grade or is it what I should expect with top grade and have to learn to work around.

Streaked-leather

Thanks,

Regis

Regis,

It is hard to get clean leather like in years gone by. This hunk also shows signs of Urin damage, that is the pitted look. This was probable a feed lot cow. The time of year has a big effect on the hide quaility too. Last order I got from Herrmann Oak was very ruff and inconsistant. Before that I was getting really good sides. These are tough times on the tanners with growth hormones throwing a wrench in the works along with shrinking arsenal of tools due to EPA regulation.

David Genadek

[Johanna]

If leather didn't have some grain and some marks, it would look like plastic. Some plastic vinyl even imitates the "look" of leather, like we might carve a wood texture in a hide. But there is no fooling what they call the "hand" of leather. It's the way it feels, smells, drapes, breathes. earns its reputation. From upholstery leather to veggie tanned, and everything in between, you can't synthetically imitate real leather. I think Kate demonstrated how what some might consider a "flaw" can actually be an integral part of the character of a piece.

I remember Little Jon haggling to buy double shoulders and sides that looked ratty. Once he flipped them over and was sure the back was okay, he knew his carving would cover up or work around any marks, holes or flaws that other people would find objectionable. He got a few deals from retailers who figured they might as well break even. I had a customer who asked me to set aside any 8/9 oz hide that came in with a brand. He made designs around the brands.

Regis, that piece looks normal to me. As long as it's not mushy when you wet it, and it's the same thickness as the rest, it's ordinary markings. Play up on them. That section might mold just a little better than the "clean" part, too. After awhile your hands will tell you more about a hide than your eyes ever could.

Johanna

[Regis]

Thanks for all the info. Kate, that board is simply beautiful. Every day there is just a weath of information in this forum. And that comes from knowledgable people that are willing and able to help.

Regis