Leather Quality

[Brokenolmarine]

I have been working and practicing now for several years and the quality of my work has gotten increasingly better, as it should.  In any hobby, if you work at it, you'll improve.  I keep reading about Hermann Oak Leather being THE leather to use for the best tooling results, and THE leather for Holsters, Belts, Sheaths and the like.  I like the results of many of my projects but feel my tooling isn't as deep or as sharp as I think it "Could" be.  I read that some of the root cause might be lesser quality leather. 

Tandy vs. Hermann Oak.

Input?

What say the peanut gallery?  Those with experience using both?

If Hermann Oak is a better leather, anyone recommend a really fair source.  I know it will be a higher cost...

I see several sources offering the leather.  Who is recommended based on price, customer service, and consistent quality?

Thanks.

[Cattledude]

HO is superior for tooling, in my opinion. Ease of carving and good burnish of tooling. Panhandle leather in Amarillo is my go to supplier.

[BlackDragon]

Most any vs. Tandy. Tandy leather is ok for beginners to try on but it's pretty inconsistent and can leave you frustrated when you're trying to improve.

I haven't used Herman Oak but I do use Wickett & Craig and it's great leather for tooling.

[asoupley]

I use Wickett & Craig as well for everything from phone cases to police duty belts to saddle work. I find it easier to 'work' than Herman Oak and I think it holds tooling quite well. Plus the price of Wicket is a little better than HO. 

50 minutes ago, Cattledude said:

HO is superior for tooling, in my opinion. Ease of carving and good burnish of tooling. Panhandle leather in Amarillo is my go to supplier.

Never heard of Panhandle Leather... just looked at their website and their prices are very promising. Thanks for the info

[Digit]

8 hours ago, Brokenolmarine said:

Tandy vs. Hermann Oak.

That's comparing apples and bananas.

Hermann Oak is a tannery; they start from hides, tan them to leather, then sell them (to wholesalers, retailers and/or individuals). Like any tannery they probably specialize in certain things and try to deliver constant quality leather.

Tandy Leather is a retailer of, amongst other things, leather. Like any wholesaler or retailer, they source their leather from various tanneries to accommodate demand for different types of leather (veg tan, chrome tan, cattle, calf, sheep, kangaroo, aniline, nappa, harness, rawhide, pigmented/colored, ...). Retailers will not always disclose which tannery they got their leather from and they will not always try to supply a constant quality. Sometimes they'll sell lower quality leather from reputable tanneries that failed quality control for which the tannery itself has no market and/or doesn't wish their brand associated with.

If you want constant quality or constant color in leather, try to find a retailer that either discloses a tannery and/or product name for their leather, or one that supplies sample cards with promises for constant quality/color.

[jrdunn]

9 hours ago, Brokenolmarine said:

I see several sources offering the leather.

I have used W & C as well as HO.  There are differences but they are both quality veg tan leather.  Since you are in Oklahoma too, I would recommend Panhandle Leather, Maker's Leather or Springfield Leather.  Each have their benefits and drawbacks.  JM2C, Jim

[Brokenolmarine]

Thanks guys... I have worked hard to improve, and had decent results with my craft, but have been told several times that my burnishing and depth issues were more a function of the tandy leather than MY failures.    I have purchased a decent amount of leather tools from Tandy, Weaver, and Springfield... and was about to order some HO leather from Weaver, but the wife wanted to surprise me with a better quality SET of bevelers from Weaver and paid for Priority shipping. Took ten days for the order to arrive.  NOT Weaver's fault, the tracking showed they got the order out the same day.  USPS took their sweet time.

I'll check the other resources you guys mentioned.  I plan to order some quality leather in the next month.  I have a good supply of leather still, but when I do belts and Gunbelts, or tooled sheaths in the future, I'd like to start the project knowing the tooling will have a fair shot. LOL.

I just finished this belt for my daughter, and the tooling turned out pretty nice, but as you can see, the depth could have been better, and the leather had some spots and defects I didn't see until I applied the finishes.  She won't complain... she uses the things I make for her.  Knives, sheaths, holsters... she is a farm girl, runs a boarding barn.  Works it herself.

The other belts I made and the gunbelt all would have benefitted from better leather I think.

 

 

Edited February 21 by Brokenolmarine

[asoupley]

2 hours ago, Brokenolmarine said:

Thanks guys... I have worked hard to improve, and had decent results with my craft, but have been told several times that my burnishing and depth issues were more a function of the tandy leather than MY failures.    I have purchased a decent amount of leather tools from Tandy, Weaver, and Springfield... and was about to order some HO leather from Weaver, but the wife wanted to surprise me with a better quality SET of bevelers from Weaver and paid for Priority shipping. Took ten days for the order to arrive.  NOT Weaver's fault, the tracking showed they got the order out the same day.  USPS took their sweet time.

I'll check the other resources you guys mentioned.  I plan to order some quality leather in the next month.  I have a good supply of leather still, but when I do belts and Gunbelts, or tooled sheaths in the future, I'd like to start the project knowing the tooling will have a fair shot. LOL.

I just finished this belt for my daughter, and the tooling turned out pretty nice, but as you can see, the depth could have been better, and the leather had some spots and defects I didn't see until I applied the finishes.  She won't complain... she uses the things I make for her.  Knives, sheaths, holsters... she is a farm girl, runs a boarding barn.  Works it herself.

The other belts I made and the gunbelt all would have benefitted from better leather I think.

 

 

I just bought that basketweave stamp! Helluva learning curve to get it lined up right. I'm having fun using it though. Have you ever tried using a crescent or camouflage stamp along the border of the basketweave? Really helped up my belt game I think

[jrdunn]

@Brokenolmarine, one of the differences I have noticed about W & C and HO is that it is easier to case.  You can still case Tandy leathers, it's just harder to do.  It is harder to achieve the appearance I want.  JM2C, Jim 

[Brokenolmarine]

21 hours ago, asoupley said:

I just bought that basketweave stamp! Helluva learning curve to get it lined up right. I'm having fun using it though. Have you ever tried using a crescent or camouflage stamp along the border of the basketweave? Really helped up my belt game I think

I have, but there wasn't room in this design on this width belt as it distorted the groove accent on the edge on the test piece so I did without it.  I liked the effect that was created by the stamp along the boarder in this case anyway.  On a wider pattern, a holster or 3" gunbelt, I have a favorite border tool I use.  A couple in fact.  I keep a bunch of offcuts in an old canister on the back of the bench to try various layouts before I start on the belts. 

[Scifidelity]

I don't do tooling, but IMO, one of the best things a beginner (which I still consider myself to be) can do is spend hours researching the different types of leather tanning, coloring, finishing, etc. 

[Brokenolmarine]

I have done a lot of research on the various techniques for dying, staining, painting, and the treatments such as antiquing and finishes over the last five years.  I have blown some nice work with poor finishes in the beginning...   But learned valuable lessons from it.  You just keep moving forward... and practice and more practice.  Before I apply a finish these days, especially on a larger project with a lot of time invested, I use an off cut of the leather I use on a project to test the stain and finish I'm going to use.  

Edited February 28 by Brokenolmarine

[PastorBob]

There is another one I have tried and they are in OK.  it's called Tradition's Leather.  Much lighter in color and softer feel than HO, but does tool real nice.  US sourced I believe.  I think they are based in OKC now.  I have no affiliation.  I normally purchase from Panhandle or SLC.

[DoubleKCustomLeathercraft]

Get yourself some HO. You will be shocked and happy with the difference. I was using Tandy's superior oak(?) I believe it was called. Anyway it was the best they carried at the time. When I got my first side of HO strap leather, I instantly feel in love with working with it. Not only did my tooling come out better, but it is easier to cut and holds a mold much better. You'll love how the swivel knife glides, like butter. I also bought a holster side (both from weaver) at the same time. There is a difference between the two, and I prefer the holster sides over the strap. I have also purchased Grade A or Grade 1, depending on who you're shopping through. For me that was montana leather company. I didn't see much of an advantage justifying the price difference between that and tannery run from weaver. I specialize primarily in holsters, chest and shoulder harnesses, and belts. But the majority of my work is holsters in general. 

[Brokenolmarine]

9 hours ago, DoubleKCustomLeathercraft said:

Get yourself some HO. You will be shocked and happy with the difference. I was using Tandy's superior oak(?) I believe it was called. Anyway it was the best they carried at the time. When I got my first side of HO strap leather, I instantly feel in love with working with it. Not only did my tooling come out better, but it is easier to cut and holds a mold much better. You'll love how the swivel knife glides, like butter. I also bought a holster side (both from weaver) at the same time. There is a difference between the two, and I prefer the holster sides over the strap. I have also purchased Grade A or Grade 1, depending on who you're shopping through. For me that was montana leather company. I didn't see much of an advantage justifying the price difference between that and tannery run from weaver. I specialize primarily in holsters, chest and shoulder harnesses, and belts. But the majority of my work is holsters in general. 

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind when I place my first order.  Most of my leather work follows the same pattern... Holsters, belts, sheaths...