What to choose on a £800 budget

[mous3]

Hi I have my eyes on the following:

SINGER 45K/89 HEAVY DUTY CYLINDER ARM INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE.

 Singer 47W66 Cylinder Arm Walking Foot

WIMSEW W-8B Cylinder Arm Walking Foot Needle Feed Sewing Machine

Wimsew 246 cylinder arm machine 

I predominantly work with biothane up to 15mm thick Max 

Which one of these options would you go for or something totally different  

Because hand stitching is not viable for doing more than gifts for family and friends I need to get machine 

Edited Thursday at 01:01 PM by mous3

[Tigweldor]

The Singer 45K usually does not have reverse and is only good to about 1/2 inch material thickness - 15mm would be stretching it´s limit.

It is also not a walking foot machine - real slippery material is not what that machine is made for - not saying it can´t be done though. 

The Wimsew is a compound sewing machine - as you have mentioned - it also has reverse and comes with a modern motor - get the 1000Watt motor.

Spare parts and different feet are available for small coin.

I would call it a cheap clone of the Adler 205 - not as well made though.

But as always :  you only get what you pay for. 

Can you get a Wimsew 8B for 800quid ?

That would be my choice for day in and day out use in a business - even though I like older machines.

 

Just my opinion

Hans

[fredk]

@mous3 you should get together with @machineage

He's got a Wimsew W-0618-1 Walking Foot Sewing Machine for sale in Staffordshire

and its within your budget

[Northmount]

6 hours ago, mous3 said:

I need to get machine

Moved to Leather sewing machines

[mous3]

Hans yes I can it appears one is available on eBay locally  shocked there is also a Adler on market place in my budget but not advertised the model number 

Thanks for your help 

1 hour ago, fredk said:

@mous3 you should get together with @machineage

He's got a Wimsew W-0618-1 Walking Foot Sewing Machine for sale in Staffordshire

and its within your budget

I will do thanks 

[mous3]

I have just found an Adler 205-64 cylinder arm machine also in my budget  between that and the Wimsew the Adler is a 8hr road trip away though 

[kgg]

1 hour ago, mous3 said:

I have just found an Adler 205-64 cylinder arm machine

The 205-64 is a bottom+needle feed machine not a compound feed (feed dog + needle + presser foot).

kgg

[Tigweldor]

Lets put it this way plain, if you want to do yourself a favour that you won´t regret :

If you want to sew multiple layers of webbing - especially Nylon or some other slippery material - a compound sewing machine is so much more efficient - in my eyes a definite must have.

Makes work so much more enjoyable, less frustrating as well - that is worth more than gold.

A good cylinder arm with a clamp on table  - maybe even a little and a big table - you got 2 machines in one - saves space and cash.

Most all cylinder / open arm sewing machines have always come with some type of latch or tapped screw hole for affixing the table on the pulley side of the arm and different kinds of bottom table support on the needle end side - is nobody reinventing the wheel on that idea - most likely been around for as long as open arm sewing machines have been in existence. 

 

Hans

Edited Friday at 01:24 AM by Tigweldor

[kgg]

13 hours ago, mous3 said:

Which one of these options would you go for or something totally different 

If I'm not mistaken the sewing capacity of the machines you are looking at is roughly 12mm and you want to sew 15mm. The machines so far are what I would consider similar machines to the Juki LS-1341 or Juki LS-341 sewing capabilities with a max thread size on top and in the bobbin of V138 ( .4mm ) in max sewing thickness. You may sew 15mm occasionally depending on the needle thread combination, the type material and the toughness of material but consistently probably not. To sew 15mm which is touch less then 5/8" really you are into a class 441 machine similar to a Juki TSC-441 or clone.

13 hours ago, mous3 said:

Because hand stitching is not viable for doing more than gifts for family and friends I need to get machine

Since you are hand stitching you are probably using .8mm thread which is roughly V554 / T600 / Tkt 5. That thread size will exceed even the Juki TSC441 or clones which can handle V415 (.7mm).

Another option maybe a one arm bandit in the Class 441. In that class you have three options Tippman Boss, Cowboy Outlaw and the Weaver Cub but will still be limited to V415 thread.

kgg

 

 

[mous3]

I have just found a wilcox and gibbs s335B  also in my price range 

I very very rarely would be doing more than 12mm thick biothane and I can live with hand stitching those rare sections, 

I understand that I will be using thinner threads that I formation is most helpful, I can hand stitch with thinner thread and have been experimenting with 0.6 mm it works well 

I definitely want to go with cylinder arm machine because it will fit into all the small awkward bits of making a dog's harness and like people have said with the little DIY engineering to you can turn into a flatbed machine but you can't turn a flatbed machine into a cylinder arm machine.

Edited Friday at 06:12 AM by mous3

[dikman]

Any machine with 335 in its name is likely a clone of the Pfaff 335, it's unlikely this will be suitable for what you want to do. While they can handle #138 thread they're generally happier with #69 and clearance under the feet is around 10mm, might go up to 12mm but not 15mm.

Keep looking.

[kgg]

19 hours ago, mous3 said:

I have just found a wilcox and gibbs s335B  also in my price range 

As @dikman said. I think you will be wasting your money on anything with 335 in the model number for your needs.

kgg

[mous3]

Thank you all for your import input, the deal is done I missed out on the wimsew it went for the full 800 so I have gone with the Adler £550 In it's favor as well as being much cheaper it's on a half table.

 I don't even need to treck to the outer end of the country to collect it as my friend is up in the area and is collecting it for me. 

I'm not worried about layers slipping because I have a quick and cheeky trick in how I tack my harness together before stitching double sided tape I often cut my straps with my Clint present and tack the harness around Thier dog, this method makes sure it will fit and when I'm actually sewing I can use it if bits don't want to stay lined up.

But now my real learning curve begins 

[Tigweldor]

well, here is the adjustment manual for the 205

copy pg. 17 to 27 and page 68 - unless you are fluent in German, French and Spanish as well.

https://www.bedienungsanleitu.ng/duerkopp-adler/205/anleitung?p=67

Although it is for a 205-370 :: apply all procedures as needed to your machine. 

When you get your machine - go through the steps one by one as needed and just check out your machine - before putting it into operation.

That won´t even cost you an hour - time well invested to avoid grievances right from the start or down the road.

This is what I also tell most people when they get a new machine : RTFM

Here another tip : if you want to thoroughly know the contents of any manual - keep a copy of it in the bathroom - every time you have a "sitting" - you can relax and read another chapter - I can guarantee success within 3 months.

 

Greetings

Hans

Edited Saturday at 10:33 PM by Tigweldor