Members friquant Posted April 12 Members Report Posted April 12 (edited) The past week i notice my top thread is sometimes curling around the bottom thread. A few curly Q's along the seam. It seems most noticeable with thin materials. I'd like these stitches to be straight. (The bottom side actually looks better, which is rare for me.) Ive tried changing the bobbin tension and the top tension. I've tried adjusting the thread take-up spring. Needle is size 125 (Singer 20). Machine is pfaff 545 H4 Fabric in photo is a single layer of thin canvas-looking stuff (0.4mm thick). Thread in photo is TEX 70 polyester UNbonded but I get the same effect when using TEX 90 polyester bonded. First photo is top side Second photo is bottom side Edited April 12 by friquant better photos Quote In search of the perfect hundred-dollar servo motor with needle positioner. friquant. Pronounced "FREE-kwuhnt"
Northmount Posted April 12 Report Posted April 12 On 4/12/2025 at 2:18 AM, friquant said: The past week i notice my top thread is sometimes curling around the bottom thread. A few curly Q's along the seam. It seems most noticeable with thin materials. Expand There was another recent post about thin materials and thick thread that made the point, the material has to be thick enough to be able to properly bury the knot. So vice-versa, the thread needs to be thin enough ... It is very hard to adjust the tension with a single thin layer of material, and thread that is more than half the thickness of the material. For test runs, use a stack of material the same as the material and same thickness as you are going to sew. And your thread has to be thin enough to be able to hide the knot. Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted April 12 Moderator Report Posted April 12 On 4/12/2025 at 2:18 AM, friquant said: Needle is size 125 (Singer 20) Expand The needle size is very good. But, you didn't state whether it is round point or some leather point shape. When sewing cloth, or any woven, or synthetic, or embroidered object, always use a round point needle. I use and recommend Schmetz Serv 7 needles, which can be bought in packs of 10. They have a larger eye than most other walking foot needles. The only ones with a larger eye are Schmetz Go needles, which must be purchased in boxes of 100. Are you using system 135x17 or system 190 needles in your Pfaff H4 (high lift) machine? Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members friquant Posted April 12 Author Members Report Posted April 12 On 4/12/2025 at 3:04 PM, Northmount said: There was another recent post about thin materials and thick thread that made the point, the material has to be thick enough to be able to properly bury the knot. So vice-versa, the thread needs to be thin enough ... Expand Glad it's not just me, and sad there's no easy fix! 😁 Quote In search of the perfect hundred-dollar servo motor with needle positioner. friquant. Pronounced "FREE-kwuhnt"
Members Tigweldor Posted April 12 Members Report Posted April 12 (edited) Top tension is to high. Look at the first pic - you can see the bottom thread pulled right through the fabric onto the top side. - thus producing the "curly Q" Either back off your top tension or increase bobbin tension. This is going to take some time by trial and error - you just have to fiddle until both of the threads knot in the middle of the fabric. But that is a normal common procedure - that most all of us are confronted with when changing thread size or switching to a different material to be sewn. Greetings Hans Edited April 12 by Tigweldor Quote
Members friquant Posted April 12 Author Members Report Posted April 12 On 4/12/2025 at 3:34 PM, Wizcrafts said: The needle size is very good. But, you didn't state whether it is round point or some leather point shape. When sewing cloth, or any woven, or synthetic, or embroidered object, always use a round point needle. I use and recommend Schmetz Serv 7 needles, which can be bought in packs of 10. They have a larger eye than most other walking foot needles. The only ones with a larger eye are Schmetz Go needles, which must be purchased in boxes of 100. Are you using system 135x17 or system 190 needles in your Pfaff H3 machine? Expand These are round point needles. Organ MTX 190 (R) Reading up on Schmetz Serv 7 needles now... Quote In search of the perfect hundred-dollar servo motor with needle positioner. friquant. Pronounced "FREE-kwuhnt"
AlZilla Posted April 12 Report Posted April 12 On 4/12/2025 at 3:34 PM, Wizcrafts said: I use and recommend Schmetz Serv 7 needles, which can be bought in packs of 10. They have a larger eye than most other walking foot needles. The only ones with a larger eye are Schmetz Go needles, which must be purchased in boxes of 100. Expand That's just PHD-level sewing knowledge that you aren't gong to find anywhere else. Quote “Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.” - Voltaire “Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.” - Aristotle
kgg Posted April 12 Report Posted April 12 On 4/12/2025 at 2:18 AM, friquant said: Needle is size 125 (Singer 20). Machine is pfaff 545 H4 Expand On 4/12/2025 at 2:18 AM, friquant said: Thread in photo is TEX 70 polyester UNbonded but I get the same effect when using TEX 90 polyester bonded. Expand The correct size of needle for Tex 70 (V69) is a size 100 (#16) in thin, a size 110 (#18) in thicker possibly a 120 (#19) in real thick. The correct size of needle for Tex 90 (V92) is a size 120 (#19) in thin, a size 140 (#22) in thicker. Here is a good chart for needle size versus thread size: ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) I could be mistaken but the PFAFF 545 H4 uses 190R needles to allow for the addition sewing capacity height wise of the H4. Thin materials will always pose a problem as there really isn't enough material to hide the knot sort of like trying to sew a sheet of paper. That combine with an oversized needle for the thread size and you can get funky stitches. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members friquant Posted April 12 Author Members Report Posted April 12 Here are two samples on different materials The first is 0.1mm printer paper. The stitches are uniform. No curls The second is 0.4mm canvas. This one has curls. 125 needle, round point TEX 70 unbonded thread Quote In search of the perfect hundred-dollar servo motor with needle positioner. friquant. Pronounced "FREE-kwuhnt"
Members friquant Posted April 12 Author Members Report Posted April 12 Here's one more sample of the 0.4mm canvas. This time I've marked the curly Q's with black marker To be clear, it's not the bottom thread showing through that I'm trying to fight. I understand that is a tough challenge on thin fabrics. But the curly Q's are new to me, and I'd like to know what is causing them, or how to make them go away. It reminds me of when I allow a long piece of thread to double over on itself, then the loop that is formed curls together. Quote In search of the perfect hundred-dollar servo motor with needle positioner. friquant. Pronounced "FREE-kwuhnt"
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