My Sewing Station

[Piko]

I just wanted to share the fruit of my hard work. It may not look good but I am working from a one bedroom with battery tools etc. 

I did not want to get the table mounted machine because i was planning on using it on my bench but, after mounting all the pieces together I realized I could not safely lift the setup from the ground to my bench top repetitively. I can lift it, but I gotta be very careful not to hurt my back in the prices and it is a very awkward shape/balance/height.

So I did decide to get a table in the end and git one with a shelf so my Nippy Mini Skiver is also housed on this table. I use the vertical set up to store more things since, as I said, I love in a one bedroom.
 

Anyhow. I moved the motor and added a speed reducer. I added a handle for moving it more easily. I relocated the controller box closer to the machine to accomodate a bobbin winder since I lost mine by adding the speed reducer. I added an eyelet thinghy to reroute the thread to the bobbin winder and, this thing is amazing. It winds bobbins in like 5 seconds and it stops when they are full. 
I had to cut the legs of the table because after adding the coaster wheels it was too high. 
 

Overall I am very happy with the whole set up and I can move it into the closet when I don't need it. The added speed reducer has made this machine so slow I can control it with ease and I think it has more punch now. It goes through veg tan like it iisnt even there.

I am still learning how to back stitch into the same holes since I cannot see them and also learning to stitch better but that’s the beauty of the journey. Here are some photos of the set up and of a manly clutch I made myself today. 

Thank you all for all your tips and suggestions. Your knowledge is truly appreciated. 
 

 

[AlZilla]

Wow, that's some hard work that really paid off. I agree, wrestling that bad boy up and down off the floor would be a bear.

Is any weight resting on that wooden triangle block under the cylinder arm? I remember you shortened that table up (I think that was your project).

The manly clutch turned out quite well. I like the alternating color of the layers around the gusset. Burnishing them to a slick finish might give an interesting effect.

[Piko]

Hi Alzilla,

I did not end up cutting the table shorter: I got lazy and decided to use the extra room to mount the bobbin winder. The wooden triangle under the machine is just there because that is where I keep it: not functional for the machine balance or anything. The wooden triangle is to glue the lining to the shell of wallets and clutches at an angle to reduce the bunching of the liner.

I have not burnished the clutch on purpose as it is one of my last tests before I start selling them on my site. I meed to fiddle with the foot pressure to avoid marks, and figure out how to back stitch. I am having 2 issues (I might as well ask since someone here may know the solution):

1) Bunching of liner. The liner is .9 mm and that is the thinnest ai can get. There is a place in Italy that can do 0.6mm - 0.7 mm but I don't have any at the moment so. I want to avoid bunching of the liner where the clutch’s flap folds. I read that stitching the sides helps but it does not seem true and, I would rather avoid stitching the flap for a cosmetic reason. I am using a water based contact cement called 1618b I think. I tested it against Barge Contact Cement and it holds pretty closely to it considering that it is water based. As for longevity of the bond I cannot attest to. My point is that the adhesive should not be the issue. Anyone knows how this can be fixed?

2) Back Stitching. I can’t seem to do it right. I wait until the needle is coming back up from the leather and I stop, press down the reverse lever, and then continue. I often miss the previous holes but i understand that is just lack of skills. However, when I do get the holes, the thread either gets bunched up on the bottom stitch side or it misses to make the knot. Anyone can suggest a solution for this? Thank you. 

[Piko]

Hi, 

I m having troubles with 2 things.

1) Bunching of liner. The liner is .9 mm and that is the thinnest ai can get. There is a place in Italy that can do 0.6mm - 0.7 mm but I don't have any at the moment so. I want to avoid bunching of the liner where the clutch’s flap folds. I read that stitching the sides helps but it does not seem true and, I would rather avoid stitching the flap for a cosmetic reason. I am using a water based contact cement called 1618b I think. I tested it against Barge Contact Cement and it holds pretty closely to it considering that it is water based. As for longevity of the bond I cannot attest to. My point is that the adhesive should not be the issue. Anyone knows how this can be fixed?

2) Back Stitching. I can’t seem to do it right. I wait until the needle is coming back up from the leather (Artisan 246) and I stop, press down the reverse lever, and then continue.

I often miss the previous holes but I understand that is just lack of skills. However, when I do get the holes, the thread either gets bunched up on the bottom stitch side or it fails to make the knot. Anyone can suggest a solution for this?

Thank you in advance.

[Northmount]

7 minutes ago, Piko said:

Bunching of liner

Glue the liner in place while folded to near the closed position.  Then there is not so much to bunch up, the flap wants to close on its own, and when opening all the way, the liner has to stretch some.  Results in a permanent curve in the flap.

If you use really thin leather for the liner, the life of the purse will be reduced due to accidents and abrasion putting things in and taking them out.  I used to use what was called skiver leather that is paper thin.  It's okay for wallet liners when you have a hidden pocket for bills.  Never used it on purses.

9 minutes ago, Piko said:

Back Stitching

Cut the tails several inches long and back stitch using saddle stitch method manually.  If you use leather point needles, they shear the thread when back stitching.  So nicer, cleaner job finishing the ends off manually.

[BlackDragon]

When adding a liner to an area that is going to bend you should glue it while it's in a bent state. This will lessen the wrinkling in the liner.

When I back stitch, after putting the machine in reverse I hand crank to make sure I get the needle in the correct hole. You only have to back stitch 3 or 4 holes.

[Piko]

56 minutes ago, Northmount said:

Glue the liner in place while folded to near the closed position.  Then there is not so much to bunch up, the flap wants to close on its own, and when opening all the way, the liner has to stretch some.  Results in a permanent curve in the flap.

If you use really thin leather for the liner, the life of the purse will be reduced due to accidents and abrasion putting things in and taking them out.  I used to use what was called skiver leather that is paper thin.  It's okay for wallet liners when you have a hidden pocket for bills.  Never used it on purses.

Cut the tails several inches long and back stitch using saddle stitch method manually.  If you use leather point needles, they shear the thread when back stitching.  So nicer, cleaner job finishing the ends off manually.

I do glue with the leather bent into shape. I still get bunching. Ironically, I even got deformation of the other shell leather when i straighten the flap open (after the glue has set). I wonder if edge paint would help covering the bunching at the edges of the flap. I normally don’t use use it but I have some Vernis at hand and tried it and it looks really good. Although I dont know if it would help my problem or make it worse. 
 

the handstitching the ends is clever: I did not think of that. So, I would just start seeing with the machine and just go forward (leaving long tails at start and end of the line) and then do the backstitching saddle stitching? Sounds great. I’ll try it thanks. 
 

Would you have any tips on getting the first and last stitch with the machine at the same distance from the edge of the leather (the top edge, not the sides, for that i use - guide). 
getting the first stitch where I want it is easier but the last one it really depends on coincidence based on how many stitches and how far apart. Is there a trick to get the last stitch exactly where you want it? 
thank you. 

[Northmount]

14 minutes ago, Piko said:

Would you have any tips on getting the first and last stitch with the machine at the same distance from the edge of the leather (the top edge, not the sides, for that i use - guide). 
getting the first stitch where I want it is easier but the last one it really depends on coincidence based on how many stitches and how far apart. Is there a trick to get the last stitch exactly where you want it? 
thank you. 

Mark where you want the beginning and end stitches to be.  Plus a couple more holes for the end.  At the end start adjusting the stitches to to match the marks, a little closer to each mark as you approach the end.  Not one big correction.  You can use the reverse lever on many machines to shorten the stitch length a little to gradually line up with your marks.

[Northmount]

20 minutes ago, Piko said:

I do glue with the leather bent into shape. I still get bunching. Ironically, I even got deformation of the other shell leather when i straighten the flap open (after the glue has set). I wonder if edge paint would help covering the bunching at the edges of the flap. I normally don’t use use it but I have some Vernis at hand and tried it and it looks really good. Although I dont know if it would help my problem or make it worse.

Edge paint doesn't add any strength to the edge.  Use thicker firmer leather for the outside, and thinner leather on the inside.  Then the outside won't have a wrinkling when opening towards flat.  If you can use a leather that is more stretchy for the inside, that will help absorb the wrinkles and stretches.

I also think that stitching the edges of the flap make it look more finished than not.  Helps blend in with stitching on the gussets.  Personally, I don't like to see stitched edges transition to none.  Doesn't look finished, looks like a short cut to get finished faster with less work.

[Piko]

1 hour ago, Northmount said:

Edge paint doesn't add any strength to the edge.  Use thicker firmer leather for the outside, and thinner leather on the inside.  Then the outside won't have a wrinkling when opening towards flat.  If you can use a leather that is more stretchy for the inside, that will help absorb the wrinkles and stretches.

I also think that stitching the edges of the flap make it look more finished than not.  Helps blend in with stitching on the gussets.  Personally, I don't like to see stitched edges transition to none.  Doesn't look finished, looks like a short cut to get finished faster with less work.

I get what you are saying about marking the last few stitches and adjust a little but at a time until the last stitch. Good idea. I’ll try it later. My reverse bar only reverses the direction it does not shorten the stitch (my Sailrite works as you described but not my Artisan) but I can try to line them up manually.

i see your point with the stitching on the flap. I am debating. If I did the stitches like 2mm closer to the edge of the leather and get the stitches closer together, I think that would look good on the flap.  Unfortunately my rolling guide cannot get closer to the foot without hitting it so i don't think i can stitch closer to the edge but I’ll look for a solution. 
In my mind, without stitches looks more refined but, I get what you are saying about the ‘incomplete’ feel when there are stitches on the gusset and not on the flap. I think getting the stitches a little closer together and closer to the edge may look good. 
 

thank for your help, much appreciated.