toxo Posted May 7 Report Posted May 7 When hand sewing on a curve the individual stitches will gradually pull the leather around some quite sharp corners. Has anyone found a consistent way to do it with a machine? Quote
Northmount Posted May 7 Report Posted May 7 3 hours ago, toxo said: When hand sewing on a curve the individual stitches will gradually pull the leather around some quite sharp corners. Has anyone found a consistent way to do it with a machine? Moved to leather sewing machines. Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted May 7 Moderator Report Posted May 7 4 hours ago, toxo said: When hand sewing on a curve the individual stitches will gradually pull the leather around some quite sharp corners. Has anyone found a consistent way to do it with a machine? I use edge guides and they compensate for turns for me. Mind you, the exact length of the corner stitches can vary ever so slightly depending on how far in the stitches are from the edge. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
toxo Posted May 8 Author Report Posted May 8 1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said: I use edge guides and they compensate for turns for me. Mind you, the exact length of the corner stitches can vary ever so slightly depending on how far in the stitches are from the edge. Didn't describe it properly Wiz. Can't think of a decent example now I need one but say you have two curved pieces that are not together say laying flat and opposite each other. So imagine the two curves that are going away from each other. When hand stitching the two pieces will, stitch by stitch, bring the two pieces together to give a more complex shape. Ha! thought of something. Imagine four quarters of a football and you want to butt stitch two of them together to form a hemisphere. Not overlapping, butt stitched. Hand sewing will gradually get it done. The only way I can see machining is to maybe skive both pieces and overlap but how do you maintain the stitch line? Glue and clip I suppose but hard to clip when the two pieces aren't together yet. Probably making no sense at all. Quote
kgg Posted May 8 Report Posted May 8 6 hours ago, toxo said: Has anyone found a consistent way to do it with a machine? On my cylinder arm I use a my flatbed attachment then use a edge guide. I prefer a standard bolt down type edge guide rather then the drop down style. The edge guide gives me a consistent stitching distance from the edge. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
toxo Posted May 8 Author Report Posted May 8 4 hours ago, kgg said: On my cylinder arm I use a my flatbed attachment then use a edge guide. I prefer a standard bolt down type edge guide rather then the drop down style. The edge guide gives me a consistent stitching distance from the edge. kgg Not what I mean Keith. Read the football analogy. Quote
Members Tigweldor Posted May 8 Members Report Posted May 8 (edited) Merrow makes such butt stitch sewing machines - even made in the US of A. https://www.merrow.com/Overlock_Sewing_Machines/Continuous_Processing/70d3b2ls For a permanent locked butt stitch, they build a 2 needle machine. They will even build a model to your exact sewing specs - at no extra cost. If you go to Ebay.UK - you will find them up for auction - just the machine head. Otherwise you could try a fur stitching machine such as a Singer 46, Bonis, Strobel, Rittershausen - they even make one in the UK = an Allbook & Hashfield. Greetings Hans Edited May 8 by Tigweldor Quote
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