Natural color holster?

[DeWayne Hayes]

Hi folks. I've made several gun holsters, and always use Fiebings Pro Dye in either English Bridle or Black. 

I'm considering doing one in natural though ... but I'm not sure what that really means. If I was going to finish a holster and retain the natural, non-dyed color, would I do any finishing at all?  

Any thought?  My usual finish is Leather Balm with Atom Wax, and on a holster that will see lots of weather, I will top-coat with diluted Mop&Glo for an acrylic layer. Think I could just do the same with a natural color holster? 

What about beeswax? I hear some dip leather holsters in melted beeswax, is this right? 

Thanks,

DeWayne

[larry1096]

I'm no pro, so take this for what it's worth.

 

When I do a natural holster, I typically apply neetsfoot oil to give it a bit of a 'tan', rather than the fairly stark white some hides show. Got to be careful not to apply so much it softens up, though.

 

I will typically do the 50/50 M&G on something OWB, but just leave it at the oil for IWB and shoulder holsters. Since I only make these for myself, I have less concerns about longevity, and the uncoated leather seems more comfortable against the body (for me, at least.) 

 

 

 

Larry

Edited Wednesday at 03:36 PM by larry1096

[AlZilla]

59 minutes ago, DeWayne Hayes said:

I'm considering doing one in natural though ... but I'm not sure what that really means. If I was going to finish a holster and retain the natural, non-dyed color, would I do any finishing at all?

With the usual warning that on my best day, I'm a rookie, I've had great results with Blackrocks Leather N' Rich as the only finish I've mostly used. Hats, holsters, sheaths, whatever, rain just beads up and rolls off. On no particular schedule, I'll reapply it. It provides a decent sheen. The hat in the profile pic has saddle tan dye, a little antiquing gel and Leather N' Rich. It's been rained on at least a couple dozen times with no ill effects.

Plenty of my stuff got no dye, nothing but Leather N' Rich. It all acts the same.

And, it's a great hand lotion!

Just what works for me.

[DeWayne Hayes]

Larry, beautiful work!  Thanks for the tips. I tend to shy away from Neatsfoot, as my holsters are wet formed, and I don't want to soften them and lose that form. 

Al, thanks too - I looked at Leather-n-rich and it appears to be carnauba based, so I'm guessing my Atom Wax does about the same thing. 

[PastorBob]

1 hour ago, DeWayne Hayes said:

Larry, beautiful work!  Thanks for the tips. I tend to shy away from Neatsfoot, as my holsters are wet formed, and I don't want to soften them and lose that form. 

Al, thanks too - I looked at Leather-n-rich and it appears to be carnauba based, so I'm guessing my Atom Wax does about the same thing. 

I will usually apply the neatsfoot just after it's been cut out.  If dyeing, I dye it right after the NFO.  If not, then I allow the oil to dry, then put the holster together, then apply sno-seal, or my homemade protectant made of beef tallow and beeswax.  Seams to do the trick.  This one has a little dye on the tooled portion, but the remainder is natural HO veg tan.

 

Edited Wednesday at 05:41 PM by PastorBob

[chuck123wapati]

Finish as you would any other, the leather will darken naturally over time! faster if left in the sun.

[dikman]

I made a pair of western holsters and just gave them a coat of neatsfoot oil then rubbed on a coat of wax (tallow/beeswax). That was years ago and other than a few scuffs they still look the same. As for dipping in melted beeswax, it's not something I would recommend for a holster as you could end up with a mess trying to clean off the excess! It's not necessary for holsters.