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  • Contributing Member
Posted

For permanent gluing, is Barges the end-all? Or will any good contact cement work equally?

Thanks,

Regis

Posted

I've actually never used Barges, but I'll be darned if I can remember the name of the stuff I do use...will have to look. It's sold by Tandy, though, and the label is white and blue I think.

Posted

I've used the Tandy stuff in the past, and it's been okay. My preference, and the only brand I use, is Barge.

  • Moderator
Posted

Regis,

I use Barge for permanent bonds. I have tried the OTC contact adhesives like Weldwood and just didn't get the same bond. About the only thing that Barge won't bond tightly is some latigo or oily leathers. It makes a bond more like rubber cement for me, enough to hold for sewing. My neighbor uses Masters AP and says that it does bond latigo. Masters also has a faster tacking up time, but a shorter "golden period" it remains tacky according to a couple users. I did repair some loose (actually fell off) ropecan cover tops that were put on with Masters by someone else. The Barge held them on. They were put on in the winter in a cold climate, and that may be a factor with Masters?? They have since switched to Barge for the lids. Barge is also heat activated. Can be recharged to tack up or loosen with a heat gun. Barge will etch or dissolve some plastics that Craftsman contact cement won't also.

Bruce Johnson

  • 3 months later...
  • Members
Posted
For permanent gluing, is Barges the end-all? Or will any good contact cement work equally?

Thanks,

Regis

I also use one that is an extremley good and permanent glue carryed by several suppliers "Masters"

Posted
I also use one that is an extremley good and permanent glue carryed by several suppliers "Masters"

For difficult situations, especially porous material, I really like Feibing's leatherbond white glue. It works wonderfully wherever Duals 88 can't cut it. I also don't have an extremely well ventilated area, so I've got to stay away from the glues with strong fumes.

ed

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