pete Report post Posted April 17, 2007 OK_ I can already hear all of you thinking that I own 85% of the Bickmore company but........... I can't believe how neat this stuff is. I just finished a rainy afternoon practice piece( they ALL become coasters for my wife) and for fun I antiqued the piece and then ran the #2 edger around it. As always it left a rim of natural leather that I would normally dye or leave natural and rub with saddle soap and burnish. Since I used the Bick and British tan I squirted a bit onto some sheepskin and ran it around the piece. No problem with color as the whole piece was done with it. While it was still wet I grabbed my piece of canvas and within SECONDS I had a burnished edge that I have rarely gotten with soap and loked like I spent 20 minutes wearing out my arm with bee's wax. Plus the Bicks conditioned the edge at the same time. OK- let the mail begin.... pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 17, 2007 Hi Pete, I just dampen the edge, wipe off the excess water and burnish with a piece of denim, and it doesn't take long at all, usually finishing-up with a piece of antler; way less than 5 minutes for a holster main seam. On gunbelts, I use the Binford 9000 (Baldor Buffer) with a felt wheel. I generally do the edgework before I finish. Art OK_ I can already hear all of you thinking that I own 85% of the Bickmore company but...........I can't believe how neat this stuff is. I just finished a rainy afternoon practice piece( they ALL become coasters for my wife) and for fun I antiqued the piece and then ran the #2 edger around it. As always it left a rim of natural leather that I would normally dye or leave natural and rub with saddle soap and burnish. Since I used the Bick and British tan I squirted a bit onto some sheepskin and ran it around the piece. No problem with color as the whole piece was done with it. While it was still wet I grabbed my piece of canvas and within SECONDS I had a burnished edge that I have rarely gotten with soap and loked like I spent 20 minutes wearing out my arm with bee's wax. Plus the Bicks conditioned the edge at the same time. OK- let the mail begin.... pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johanna Report post Posted April 18, 2007 Water works fine, so does dye or Leather Balm. The trick is the friction created with the burnishing, and denim or canvas is great, so is scrap deerskin. I'm gonna have to try these Bickmore products. I've been hearing good things about them, and we're all going to be looking for alternatives when the California "hazardous leatherworking chemicals" paranoia sweeps the country. Thank goodness we can get by with tap water for many jobs, huh? Johanna Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David Genadek Report post Posted April 18, 2007 Johanna, Best to think of it in terms of compression rather than friction. David Genadek Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted April 18, 2007 From what i have been told Cali tap water is a hazardous chemical Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather Bum Report post Posted April 21, 2007 OK_ I can already hear all of you thinking that I own 85% of the Bickmore company but...........I can't believe how neat this stuff is. I just finished a rainy afternoon practice piece( they ALL become coasters for my wife) and for fun I antiqued the piece and then ran the #2 edger around it. As always it left a rim of natural leather that I would normally dye or leave natural and rub with saddle soap and burnish. Since I used the Bick and British tan I squirted a bit onto some sheepskin and ran it around the piece. No problem with color as the whole piece was done with it. While it was still wet I grabbed my piece of canvas and within SECONDS I had a burnished edge that I have rarely gotten with soap and loked like I spent 20 minutes wearing out my arm with bee's wax. Plus the Bicks conditioned the edge at the same time. OK- let the mail begin.... pete This is not really on topic, but. . . Pete, are you saying you used the Bickmore stuff mixed with dye to antique the leather, too? I've never used Bick's leather-care products, and I'm interested in hearing more about it. Did you use the Bick-4 conditioner? I would be interested in seeing what this antiquing method looks like. . . Thank you, LBum p.s. Has anyone ever used Apple Polishes' products? I noticed they have the same address and telephone number as Bickmore. . . Odd, they appear to be the same company. . .? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted April 22, 2007 I sure do. If you look at the earlier post you'll see that I use Bick#4 mixed with Feibing's dye . I makes it go on without spots or streaks and it is great for some of the funky leather that I get occasionally that still looks pale or whitish even after I oil it. I buff it and put the antique directly on after without any lacquer or resist. Makes the antique paste go on evenly too and the conditioner(#4) makes it easier to rub off Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted April 22, 2007 I'll second that also. It works great for me if I want ONE color. It is the only way I can get really even coloring on large areas. I don't think I would use it if I were going to apply different colors (e.g. paint). Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
