Soybomb Report post Posted May 14, 2007 Hey all I'm looking at some 1 way snaps to use on my holsters. I've never pieced together snaps so I'm not entirely sure what I'm doing until I get it all in my hands and I'd appreciate any guidance you might have. I think the plan for now is to put the cap through 1 thickness of 7/8 and the stud will be on either 1 or 2 thicknesses, probably two. Right now I'm thinking I'll get: stud http://www.smartcart.com/scovill/cgi/displ...92-BS-18303--1C socket http://www.smartcart.com/scovill/cgi/displ...92-XX-18201--1C cap http://www.smartcart.com/scovill/cgi/displ...92-XE-18100-A1B post http://www.smartcart.com/scovill/cgi/displ...93-BS-10412--1C Does that look like I should be good? Would the .240 or .290 post be the better choice? I've seen some guys use things like this http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/NUTBN.cfm and a screw instead of posts too, why do they do that? Am I going to have any problems setting 1 way snaps with a basic tool set like this http://www.eleatherworks.com/product.php?p...31&cat=0&page=2 Thanks and sorry for all the links! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Major Report post Posted May 14, 2007 (edited) I would stick with the longer studs personally, you can always trim them down as necessary. Better to be longer than have to skive some of the back of the leather to accommodate. That snap setting kit is all I use for setting a couple snaps. Other than that I will use my snap press. I have seen "tee-nuts" used in wood, I have not used them in leather I guess it would work, but I would be concerned about the thickness of the prongs coming through the other side of the leather. Maybe someone else on here has used them and can offer some more suggestions. Edited May 14, 2007 by The Major Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soybomb Report post Posted May 14, 2007 Dumb question, how do you trim the studs? Do you punch the leather first or do they punch it too? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted May 14, 2007 You can file or grind to the right height, not much though, there is little difference between the short and the tall. I have a Pres-N-Snap and it puts them right through the leather, the regular setter and anvil kits from Tandy work fine, just don't smack them too hard. Use some scrap and set a few before you do the real ones on the work, no matter how much you read or ask, doing is the best teacher. Art Dumb question, how do you trim the studs? Do you punch the leather first or do they punch it too?Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soybomb Report post Posted May 14, 2007 Cool, thats kinda how it usually works for me. I just placed my order at zack white last night and figured I'd check before ordering like $90 worth of assorted snaps :D (getting 100 regular and 100 pull the dot). It looks like the post/eyelet is the same for both the durable dot and pull the dot snaps while the socket, cap and stud are different? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billsotx Report post Posted May 14, 2007 T-nuts are used widely in gun leather. An example would be interchangeable belt loops on an IWB, allowing changling for wear with a 1 1/2" belt to a 1 3/4" belt and/or other combinations. (I try to attach a pix.) I use the tool kit you linked to for all my snap setting. If you can afford it get both lengths, if you can't get the long ones. There's lots of ways to trim them. I usually do it with nippers; like you trim horseshoe nails with, because they are handy. You may wanna see Stolhman's book on using and maintain leathertools for some good info and pix. The book is an education in leathercraft tools to say the least. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted May 14, 2007 If you are going to order that $ of fasteners, go to http://www.dotfastenersdirect.com/ they have a $50 minimum but they also can answer all of your questions about what part goes with what and what parts interchange. The Scovill company is DOT snaps and the DOT snaps are usually the best, or at least most consistant. I always buy dot because with them, I know what I am getting and it always works with the Press-N-Snap and the Snapmaster tools and dies. Sometimes DOT snaps can be hard to snap or unsnap, but I got "another" brand one time that were just about impossible to snap and unsnap. Durable DOT Sanps are Ligne 24 Baby DOT Snaps are Ligne 20 Segma Snaps are Ligne 16 Durable DOT, Baby DOT, and Segma Snaps are the Real DOT snaps, if they are Ligne 24, 20, or Segma Type snaps they are not DOT. I have used the Tandy imported snaps in a pinch, and they are ok, but I don't use enough of them to know for sure. Nice thing about the DOTs is they come in a bunch of materials and finishes and colors and you buy the individual parts you need. There are also other fastener dealers that cary DOT but don't have the $50 minimum. Art Cool, thats kinda how it usually works for me. I just placed my order at zack white last night and figured I'd check before ordering like $90 worth of assorted snaps :D (getting 100 regular and 100 pull the dot). It looks like the post/eyelet is the same for both the durable dot and pull the dot snaps while the socket, cap and stud are different? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soybomb Report post Posted May 14, 2007 Art - Thats where I've been building my shopping cart already! Its a few more than I want really but I figure if I decide I don't like how they're work and won't use them they'll be easy enough to sell to someone who doesn't want that many either. I'm thinking pull the dots for holsters, some durable dots for show cuffs. Billsotx what size/where do you get the T nuts and screws? I'm not planning for interchangeable loops, but it might be an easier way to mount that side since I don't have a snap press. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K-Man Report post Posted May 14, 2007 Ohio Travel Bag sells the snaps you're looking for. I use them extensively on this holster: I use a black line 24 cap to help conceal what the snap is (the customer knows, of course). McMaster-Carr sells the t-nuts. Your local hardware store may have them also. I use them on 6 oz leather and punch a hole for the shaft. I then punch them into a piece of soft rubber/poundo board. I then bend the tips over to hold them secure. Hope this information helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soybomb Report post Posted May 15, 2007 Hey k-man I believe I've seen some of your fine work for keltec's before. Thanks for the advice. I was actually planning to pick up some other stuff from ohio travel bag but I'm waiting for them to email me back with a price list and how to actually order. They'll sell to anyone as long as you buy the minimum quantity right? Perhaps I'll just throw some of those on that order at first so I don't have to buy hundreds :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Major Report post Posted May 15, 2007 (edited) T-nuts are used widely in gun leather. An example would be interchangeable belt loops on an IWB, allowing changling for wear with a 1 1/2" belt to a 1 3/4" belt and/or other combinations. (I try to attach a pix.) I use the tool kit you linked to for all my snap setting. If you can afford it get both lengths, if you can't get the long ones. There's lots of ways to trim them. I usually do it with nippers; like you trim horseshoe nails with, because they are handy. You may wanna see Stolhman's book on using and maintain leathertools for some good info and pix. The book is an education in leathercraft tools to say the least. Who'd a thunk it. Learn something new every day. Thanks for the info! Never thought of using them in leather. I am assuming those are #8 screws Edited May 15, 2007 by The Major Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billsotx Report post Posted May 19, 2007 Ohio Travel Bag is a good source on t's but Lowe's and Home Depot have them. You can bend the tips over as mentioned or you can nip them off if they're too long. If you cut them maintain the same angle so that you end up with a sharp prong just like you started with. Sorry about the delayed response. I forgot to tag this thread. What's this in the left window - . . . ah, eye C . . . foo foo .... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Garrity Report post Posted June 27, 2007 Ace Hardware also has the t-nuts in their loose bins. For IWB holsters I use a 3-prong 1/4 inch 6/32 t-nut mated to a 3/8 x 6/32 button-head allen screw. You can do it like K-Man said, setting the t-nut in a single layer of leather and pounding the prongs flat, so the back of the nut is concealed inside the holster, which is what I do also. Some makers just set the t-nut least after stitching, setting it thru the 2 layers of leather so the back is exposed on the rear of the holster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodandsteel Report post Posted February 21, 2011 I'm looking for the same snaps in government black. Dotfastenersdirect.com site is no longer up. Can the parts be interchanged between dot durable and pull the dot snaps? can i order a bunch of Durable dot snaps and just the female snap part for the Pull the Dot? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodandsteel Report post Posted March 19, 2011 I found the black Pull the Dot snaps at paragear.com. Their minimum is just $25. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KWP Report post Posted May 17, 2011 Soybomb I used T-nuts on a jacket slot duty holster to attach the jacket slot belt loop. They worked perfect. I used 3 in a triangle pattern inside the holster and then lined it. When I attached the belt loop, which was stainless steel strap covered in leather, I screwed the screw in until I saw it push on the lining and then backed off a bit and adjusted the length of the screw. I carried this holster on duty for 5 years and never once had any issues with it. I bought the T-nuts at the local Ace hardware for cheap. I also use a drop of Loc-Tite on any screw that I DON'T want to come out. Good luck. KW Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites