I was gifted a shoe patcher machine. Just need help getting it to work well!

[Deanobambino]

1 minute ago, Wizcrafts said:

A well oiled older industrial sewing machine is a lot like an old Harley. They also mark their spot!

That’s funny right there 😂

[Deanobambino]

2 hours ago, kgg said:

I would forget about what the manual says about oiling locations until you are sure that everything is oiled properly. I would give it a good bath in synthetic oil to get oil in those bearings and all the places where metal rubs against metal and get any manufacturing debris out of the machine. I usually flood a new or new to me machine just to make sure there is oil everywhere and any garbage is gone.

It can be messy but it is worth it in the end. 

kgg

What’s the best oil to use? I have a little unlabeled container that came with my Consew. But I know clue the brand or type. Is it just the 3in 1 oil? 
 

Also, thank you! 

[Northmount]

6 minutes ago, Deanobambino said:

What’s the best oil to use? I have a little unlabeled container that came with my Consew. But I know clue the brand or type. Is it just the 3in 1 oil? 
 

Also, thank you! 

3 in 1 and other hardware store oil contains additives that oxidize and form a gummy substance that turns into a hard shellac.  When this happens, your machine will seize up.  Use sewing machine oil.  It is clear, Lily White is one brand.  It generally doesn't stain items you are sewing, but can.  Others here are using transmission oil, hydraulic oil, synthetic oils, etc.  There are lots of posts and a fair amount of debate as to which is best.

 

[kgg]

10 minutes ago, Deanobambino said:

What’s the best oil to use? I have a little unlabeled container that came with my Consew. But I know clue the brand or type. Is it just the 3in 1 oil? 

Chances are what oil came with the Consew was Sewing Machine Oil like Lilly White. Sewing machine oil is not 3 in 1 oil.

I know I am the odd man out on this point but I never use sewing machine oil in any of my new or used sewing machines. I use a combination of synthetic motor oil and synthetic transmission oil. The amount of each varies depending on whether I am flushing a machine or just normal oiling.  

kgg

16 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

A well oiled older industrial sewing machine is a lot like an old Harley. They also mark their spot!

Good one. I like that.

kgg

[Deanobambino]

Ok so this is where it catches or meets resistance, however I should say that. Where that inner groove starts to change direction. In the picture the red is where the resistance starts and then where it ends. It’s hard to show the position is in when it’s actually resisting.  So the photos are the spots where the bearing is at when it’ is resisting(im

horrible at these kind of descriptions haha) 

10 minutes ago, Northmount said:

3 in 1 and other hardware store oil contains additives that oxidize and form a gummy substance that turns into a hard shellac.  When this happens, your machine will seize up.  Use sewing machine oil.  It is clear, Lily White is one brand.  It generally doesn't stain items you are sewing, but can.  Others here are using transmission oil, hydraulic oil, synthetic oils, etc.  There are lots of posts and a fair amount of debate as to which is best.

 

I think that’s hardest part of all this. Every step of the process has so many elements to learn! Like every day there’s something g to research added to the list haha

thank you!

[friquant]

4 hours ago, kgg said:

I know I am the odd man out on this point but I never use sewing machine oil in any of my new or used sewing machines. I use a combination of synthetic motor oil and synthetic transmission oil. The amount of each varies depending on whether I am flushing a machine or just normal oiling.  

The boon of synthetic motor oil is that it SMELLS GOOD. Or doesn't smell bad, I should say. I can't say the same for regular motor oil.

 

[kgg]

4 hours ago, Deanobambino said:

Ok so this is where it catches or meets resistance,

Not uncommon. What I would do is:

i) remove the pulley BUT mark it's position on the shaft as it is easy to put it back wrong and you will be out 180 degrees.

ii) check and see if there is a high spot in the groove. Depending on findings you may have to lightly grid it.

But this could be as simple as reinstalling the pulley not as far in on the shaft as it's original position. It could have been installed to far in at the factory or by the guy you got it from. Don't forget to lightly oil the shaft or the groove in the pulley.

kgg

[dikman]

Try and feel the area where it's "catching", as kgg suggested, and if you find a slight high spot/roughness then rubbing it with some fine sandpaper might fix it.

Oil, every forum that uses machinery inevitably has lots of oil discussions! The simplest way is to get Lillywhite sewing machine oil, if not a light hydraulic oil is very similar to it. Try and keep away from motor-type oils, including 3-in-1, while they will work long term could be an issue as Northmount said.

[Deanobambino]

Ok so I’m trying to remove the pulley. I’m marked where it was. I took out the bolt that I thought was to secure it, but there’s a metal bar or pin stuck in it and no i dea how to get it out.

[Deanobambino]

Still haven’t got the pulley off but I was feeling the groove and there’s a little deep part right where it meets resistance.