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Need recommendations for steel bar plate for work bench


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  • Members
Posted

Looking for any recommendations on steel bar plate to put on top of my work bench. I have separate anvil but want to integrate a strip of steel in a gap between two of my benches. Any specific info is very helpful like thickness, steel type and of course any feature to look for so I do not mar leather or have it be prone to excessive rust.

 

Thanks for the help!

  • Contributing Member
Posted

I'd go for at least 6mm (1/4 inch) thick aluminium. No chance of corrosion / rust ruining leather. About 4 inches wide and about 15 to 18 inches long. Counter-sunk brass screws to hold down. Should be able to cope with most projects

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • Moderator
Posted

not marking your leather or prone to rust - Stainless. The late Phil LeDuc used stainless as a tooling surface instead of granite.

Thickness depends on what you are going to do with it and if it need to be flush in the gap between benches. My flat bench plates/anvils are 1" thick, but not stainless. good solid weight for light riveting and knocking out rivets. 

 

Bruce Johnson

Malachi 4:2

"the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey

Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com

  • Members
Posted

What are you actually going to use it for? If hammering rivets etc on it then aluminium will be too soft and will mark easily, steel plate will have to be pretty thick to avoid bounce when hammering. That's why anvils are so good (even little ones), they have mass to resist bounce.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted

I would be using it for copper rivets and other rivets.  Belts and straps and saddle rigging.  It just seems easier to rivet on my bench rather than balancing longer pieces on anvil while having hands full of tools.  Aluminum will not work.  Agree bounce needs to be avoided so the recommendations on metal 5hickness very helpful.  The plate will be 5 or 6 inches wide and straddle the edges of two benches (i have gap due to 4" steel vertical beam on the wall the benches are on) and those benches have solid 4×4 inch wood posts.  I plan to mount screw the plate to the benches.  Stainless is pricy, may go with a cold finished  flat steel bar and keep it clear of corrosion unless someone has recommendations to keep the steel as corrosion free as possible?

 

  • Moderator
Posted

Lots of rivets have been knocked out and set on this by the [previous owner and me. This particular one measures 5x3x1. I have had 5x3s and 6x4s fairly often in old sets. I have had two I can think of with the USA mark. That mark is US Army and listed as standard equipment in some leather repair kits (The "battery wagon box").  

DSCN7284.JPG

Bruce Johnson

Malachi 4:2

"the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey

Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com

  • Moderator
Posted
39 minutes ago, desullivan said:

Thanks Bruce!  Now I know what to look for.  I will try and find one or find steel plate that is similar.

Check with a local steel yard if you have one close by. Sometimes you can get off cuts from the scrap.

Bruce Johnson

Malachi 4:2

"the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey

Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com

  • Members
Posted

I use a piece of rail as an anvil i sanded it down and painted everything but the top i sanded and polished the top with metal polish and wipe it down every time I use it and it hasn't rusted in the 4 years ive had it.

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