CFM chuck123wapati Posted 5 hours ago CFM Report Posted 5 hours ago So after throwing a perfectly terrible pair of nearly brand new 100+dollar Chinese shoes in the trash. I set out on an adventure, or maybe a quest is better.. To find a pattern i can make and use daily until I die or until someone in the USA makes a damn shoe. I am so tired of the living by buying cheap plastic garbage mindset that we have been led into i could puke, especially when your feet hurt after ten minutes. Any ways i decided that a decent moccasin pattern is the answer, but I have tried and failed miserably in making my own pattern. I have about six patterns downloaded and even looked at the steampunk dudes driving moc pattern as an option. I looked at several mocs on the net and decided on the basic shape of a chukka-type moc with thicker soles. I decided that Genes pattern could work, so I set to work. First off, most moc patterns call for softer leathers than veg tan, usually moose or bison, so I knew the challenge would be to utilize the heavy veg tan for soles. I figured a form would be the answer, so I cut one out the basic shape of the insole, then also an outside form slightly bigger, double the leather thickness. So I glued in the insole, then wet-formed the sole. I used 2mm leather for the vamp and set about sewing it up as close to the exact pattern I could and followed the instructions. What I learned!!!! You need flexible or softer leather, the vamp started tearing at an obvious weak pointso was ruined before finishing, but i finished anyway to find all the bugs. There were holes in both sides at the tongue edge and there were wrinkles inside and out at the toe and heel so uncomfortable, also to small and just ugly. I also learned that you need to stretch the vamp as you go in order for the stitching holes to line up properly or your stitches wont be tight. The stitching holes were so far from the edge that big wrinkles were formed inside and out. Plus the sewing just looked like s@#t. What i did Changed the vamp from a one-piece to a three-piece design, widened the tongue so there would be no open holes in the sides of the mocs As I formed the sole, I took a ballpeen hammer and pounded out all the wrinkles and bumps on the heel and toe section. Then, after drying, I trimmed up the sole evenly all the way around. After forming i doused the sole in NFO as well as the vamp to get some flex, skived the edges of the sole, burnished, then used a round awl to punch the stitch line up closer to the edge like 1/8" or so. I did the same on the vamp, moved the holes to 1/8th inch from the edge that gave me enough room for my foot plus i lost all the insde bumps and wrinkles. Stitching was the key to a nice loking job, and i now understand why the particular stitch was used. The process to sew these is simple: but not explained in the pattern!!!! you do about six stitches, then go back and tighten them up, then do a few more. There are places where the holes get way funky but if you use a needle as a lever and stretch the vamp as you go then they all line up and the shoe forms perfectly. Any way, here are some pics and my two-toned shoes lol, I used a piece of hide that had been partially sunburned, so after screwing one shoe up i had to use the lighter stuff, which will darken up with time lol. I now have a usable pattern, and my next pair will have a gusseted tongue as well. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
CFM chuck123wapati Posted 5 hours ago Author CFM Report Posted 5 hours ago the good two tones lol. been wearing these for two days, and they are so comfy I forget they are on. Just 11.5 oz each. you can see the vamp on the dark shoe is kinda wonky, that's the third attempt, and really, when I realized you have to stretch the vamp into place. You also have to trim very close at the toe and heel awl holes and even cut out a V between the stitches in the toe and heel areas. Anyway, I have found my answer to sore feet and plastic garbage!!! Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
Members Dwight Posted 4 hours ago Members Report Posted 4 hours ago Good looking . . . wonder how long the soles will last . . . I'm gonna make myself a pair some day . . . using the 3 layer approach the Romans used on their sandals. Bottom layer is sole . . . thick . . . and they had kinda likd hob nails that gave them traction whenever they were worn. Middle layer actually is all one piece . . . toes and tongue would sew in like yours . . . sides and ends are all one piece Top piece is the inner layer that touches the wearer's foot. All three layers were sewn together . . . and if I recall correctly . . . may have been some rivets. That is what I'll do Plan on making mine to stop just below the knee . . . will put zippers in the inside for quick on and off May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members BlackDragon Posted 2 hours ago Members Report Posted 2 hours ago Really cool! Just add some shearling on the inside and you have nice winter shoes. Just watch out for ice lol. Quote
CFM chuck123wapati Posted 2 hours ago Author CFM Report Posted 2 hours ago 2 hours ago, Dwight said: Good looking . . . wonder how long the soles will last . . . I'm gonna make myself a pair some day . . . using the 3 layer approach the Romans used on their sandals. Bottom layer is sole . . . thick . . . and they had kinda likd hob nails that gave them traction whenever they were worn. Middle layer actually is all one piece . . . toes and tongue would sew in like yours . . . sides and ends are all one piece Top piece is the inner layer that touches the wearer's foot. All three layers were sewn together . . . and if I recall correctly . . . may have been some rivets. That is what I'll do Plan on making mine to stop just below the knee . . . will put zippers in the inside for quick on and off May God bless, Dwight Thanks dwight, I'm thinking a good long while on the soles they are 10oz and the insole is also 10 oz. I'll know soon enough I'm sure. What is nice is they can be resoled pretty easily i think. I'm also going to make a pattern for sandals, and the Roman type of sole is a great way to do that for sure. I I've been thinking what kind of leather crafter would i be if i couldnt make my own shoes lol. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
CFM chuck123wapati Posted 2 hours ago Author CFM Report Posted 2 hours ago 5 minutes ago, BlackDragon said: Really cool! Just add some shearling on the inside and you have nice winter shoes. Just watch out for ice lol. Thank you !! Now that I have a working pattern i can do some tweaking to make them even better. Right now I have some nice thick merino wool socks that work really well in these. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
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