Belts - straight or curved?

[Billsotx]

There's a sea gull sailing around Parade Island calling your name girl. You've been gone too long Texas woman!

Edited January 22, 2009 by Billsotx

[Johanna]

I have to agree with what Shorts said. She's right about being in shape, and everything fitting better. I like the way she explained that if the holster or belt is drawing her attention to adjust it, it doesn't fit properly. Also, being 40-something years old, I know my body is not like it was before I had babies. My hips are wider in proportion to my waist, even though I am the same weight and height, than when I was in my twenties.

And, I cut my belts straight and let my body put the natural curve into them over time. When I measure someone for a belt, I have them take off the one they are wearing. I put my tape measure next to it, kinda adjust for the curve, and measure from the hole they are using to the end. That's how I figure out their center hole, then two up and two down, because we girls do change sizes in the course of a month. I have cut guitar straps on a curve, but it "wastes" leather (I know, there is no such thing as scrap!) because you can't cut as many from a side. When I buy a side I cut off straps from the back, not the belly (too stretchy) and I can usually pay for the side with a few of the straps, leaving me plenty of leather for whatever I'm doing with the rest. I expect my belts to acquire a natural curve after use.

Johanna

ps- most women do not use belts to hold their pants up. Our pants stay up whether we have a belt on or not (that hips thing!) Belts are fashion accessories, not for "function" MOST of the time with women. That is not true for men who require a belt to avoid showing a "plumber butt" when their pants slide below their hips. Add their wallet, holster etc. into the mix, and they need a belt or they will walk around hiking their pants up, or worse, showing everyone more than they want to see.

[Go2Tex]

Well, for belts with a curve, all you need do is cut it straight, wet it down, and put the shape you want on it. Clamp it down so it stays that way until dry. Presto! Curved belt.

[Billsotx]

Well, for belts with a curve, all you need do is cut it straight, wet it down, and put the shape you want on it. Clamp it down so it stays that way until dry. Presto! Curved belt.

I'm with Brent. You can mold your belts on a curve up to about 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide. Three is getting iffy. Build your belt right up to the finish application then case it. Don't drown it - case it - just like you were going to tool it. I see gear over hear all the time that's worked too wet and moisture or the lack there of is key in building good looking gun leather. After you case the belt lay it on the workbench and work it with your palms flat beding careful not to kink or bow it - go slow - if you cased it correctly you've got 20 to 30 mintues to mold it. Work from the center out toward each end. I have an arch marked off on my bench that I shape to so that I get some consistency from belt to belt - sort of a method to the madness. Once you have the proper contour let it dry 24 hours or more and then apply your finish. Bruce Nelson was probably the first custom leather smith to build curved belts on a large scale and he did that for all reasons listed above - comfort, kinking, stiffness, chafing, etc. It adds time to your build but it doesn't require a lot of leather and it accomplished the same thing as cutting it. The problem with cutting it is you have to always go back to a straight edge; if you continue to follow the curve of previously cut belts the curve disporportionately gets deeper and way out of line.

[Shorts]

Interesting idea molding to the curve instead of cutting. I never thought of that but it's seems like, 'duh'.

So....on the curved belt, how do you go about double layers and stitching? Seems the stitching would be done after the curve mold so that the stitches can hold the leather in place.

Bill, I so need that seagull infested island! We move out next Thursday and the stress and frustration of all tat an overseas move entails is making want to cry "uncle!" and be done with it. Less than 2 weeks...less than 2 weeks...less than 2 weeks... :D

Edited January 23, 2009 by Shorts

[Go2Tex]

Same goes for the liner, assuming it is veg tan and thick. You could shape it too. Or, I might be inclined to just iine it the same way I line curved breast collars. Just lay the top piece down and trace off the liner piece, larger than the top piece, glue it down, stitch, then trim.

[Billsotx]

Interesting idea molding to the curve instead of cutting. I never thought of that but it's seems like, 'duh'.

So....on the curved belt, how do you go about double layers and stitching? Seems the stitching would be done after the curve mold so that the stitches can hold the leather in place.

Bill, I so need that seagull infested island! We move out next Thursday and the stress and frustration of all tat an overseas move entails is making want to cry "uncle!" and be done with it. Less than 2 weeks...less than 2 weeks...less than 2 weeks... :D

Shorts,

Just build your lined belt as you normall would - glue the liner on, stitch it, finish your edges completely, punch your holes in the billet and slot for the buckle if applicable and the fold and holes for screws or install snaps - whatever - just don't apply your final finish - then case it and mold your curve. This has been around for a long time it's not a whim. Saddle makers have built breast plates like this as Brent mentioned for a long time. I've said it before - don't ignore what these saddle people are doing. I used to hang out in a saddle shop just because I might learn something. I can't build a saddle but I know how to watch one being built ... lol! Once you build one of these belts you'll know one when you see it. Just take a text drive - get a couple pieces of scrap, something to represent a belt in thickness and width, glue it up, stitch it, finish the edges - do it justice. Case it and mold it - then apply the finish. It's not wasted - you've got a mock up to block you belt loops - something else that not being done anymore because everyone is out to just make money.

When you get back we'll have to meet down in Wilson County and get ol' Brent to bounce for a taco. I don't know if Carvajal Saddlery is still there in Floresville but it's an interesting visiting if it is. I'm not familiar with any saddle shops in Corpus. Of course there's always Yoakum but they think they have all the secrets locked down ... lol!

I'll go feed the seagulls ........

[Shorts]

Brent, thanks for the info. It makes clear sense

Thanks Bill. I think I'll give it a go once I'm up and running again. As much as I would have loved it I never had the pleasure of hanging around a saddle shop. I have so much catching up to do!

I'd certainly be interested in meeting you and Brent and anyone else nearby. I was raised out in Karnes City and I still go by to see how things are. I'll be going by again to make a stop at my old elementary school (there's a time capsule in the building I wanted to see about). I'm up for a taco!

[Go2Tex]

I keep hearing about Carvajal but have't met him or seen his shop and not sure if he's even still in business. Apparently the newpaper bought the building where the orignial saddle shop was? There's a boot repair shop across from Smith's Propane. There's a saddle repair, tack shop over on 775, toward La Vernia, called Scotty's. Haven't stopped in yet.

As for tacos, we're still looking for a good one ourselves. What's your favorite? So far, the ones we've tried are nothing out of the ordinary.

As for hanging out in my shop, you are certainly welcome to swing by anytime. Like most other folks these days, I have plenty of time to chat 'cause there sho ain't much business.

[TexasJack]

I don't pretend to be an expert on belts, but I've always felt that the real selling point for leather belts is that they always conform to the shape of your body. (You can pretty much extend that to any leather-wear.)