resists

[Hilly]

Is there any resists that are not shiny? A satin gloss is acceptable, but I'd rather not have a fake plastic look.

Have a great day!

Hilly

[Tina]

Is there any resists that are not shiny? A satin gloss is acceptable, but I'd rather not have a fake plastic look.

Have a great day!

Hilly

Resist as in a finisher/acryllic sealer?

Angelus have in their leather line of sealer in 4oz, pint or quart: Matte, Satin, gloss and High Gloss, If this is what you're looking for I paste a link below where I get the stuff, very quick and easy.

http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/mis...s.html#finisher

[Go2Tex]

You can always tone down that gloss with either a light wipe of deglazer, or try some antique rubbed in. It really gives it a nice soft glow.

[Hilly]

I've made myself a carved pistol case, and now that I have it dyed, would like to use a resist, then antique, and seal it. I just really hate the way Supersheen and Neatlac (IMO) makes the leather look like cheap plastic. Something either matte or slightly satin would be fine for my tastes.

Thanks Tina, for the links. I will check them out!

[ClayB]

how do you apply Neat Lac, Hilly? I think you get a lot less shiny look if you rub it in well with a piece of sheep skin than if you spray it on. It shouldn't look "plastic" with antique applied after that and sealed with something like tan kote.

[pabloz]

An old trick we use to tone down the "gloss" is to add talcum powder to the final top coat to cut down on the refraction. It only takes a very small amount and only use talcum or pumice not baby powder. Also, I would highly exhort experimentation to achieve the desired effect.

Pabloz

[LNLeather]

An old trick we use to tone down the "gloss" is to add talcum powder to the final top coat to cut down on the refraction. It only takes a very small amount and only use talcum or pumice not baby powder. Also, I would highly exhort experimentation to achieve the desired effect.

Pabloz

I know this is an old post (started back in Feb 09) but there is some really good info here

that I haven't read any where else... So I thought I'd bump it up to the top.

I hope this is helpful to others that have the same problem as I do with some finishes

looking way to shiny and making the leather look like it is plastic. I have read that a finish/resist can be

diluted and should also be put on with a lite touch but this tip above is new to me and I

think I will be trying it out very soon.

I also like the tip by ClayB that ---> It shouldn't look "plastic" with antique applied after that and sealed with something like Tan Kote.

Thank You All for some really great tips here!

ps.

Yeikes - Was just reading about Talcum being a health hazzzard....

That is a new one to me - sooooo be careful if you try this and be

Very Careful not to inhale any.......

Edited June 19, 2012 by LNLeather

[Bob Blea]

Hi Cheryl,

Thanks, this is good info. I've started using Wyo Sheen (basically same as Neat Lac) recently as a resist and I found that scrubbing when applying the Wyo Sheen does seem to leave a finish that is not very shiny. After antiquing it looks a little shiny, but I definitely would not call it 'plastic' looking. It blocks the antique well too.

This picture doesn't show it really well, but it's all I have on a project that I finished this way. I might have to try the talc too. You shouldn't be breathing in lacquer fumes anyway.

Bob

[LNLeather]

Hi Cheryl,

Thanks, this is good info. I've started using Wyo Sheen (basically same as Neat Lac) recently as a resist and I found that scrubbing when applying the Wyo Sheen does seem to leave a finish that is not very shiny. After antiquing it looks a little shiny, but I definitely would not call it 'plastic' looking. It blocks the antique well too.

This picture doesn't show it really well, but it's all I have on a project that I finished this way. I might have to try the talc too. You shouldn't be breathing in lacquer fumes anyway.

Bob

Hi Bob,

Wow, That is a R e a l l y N i c e flower.... I really like that.

( and I am also curious about what basketweave stamp you used. Nice and straight too. Nice work there Bob...

Is that a Hackbarth or B King? I want one! )

There's No sign of that looking like Plastic, that's for sure! Very Nice!

About the resist/finish - I have a couple of quarts of the Satin and Super Shene, so I'm gonna have to try some of these ideas out.

[Bob Blea]

Hi Bob,

Wow, That is a R e a l l y N i c e flower.... I really like that.

( and I am also curious about what basketweave stamp you used. Nice and straight too. Nice work there Bob...

Is that a Hackbarth or B King? I want one! )

There's No sign of that looking like Plastic, that's for sure! Very Nice!

About the resist/finish - I have a couple of quarts of the Satin and Super Shene, so I'm gonna have to try some of these ideas out.

Thank you on the flower Cheryl. The basket stamp is Barry King and I really like it too. I've got a couple of his that I end up using all the time.

On Satin and Super Shene, you will want to use multiple coats to get a good resist. I found it took a couple of coats to really block the antique. With just one or a few coats, I found some antique could still get through and color the leather. It didn't look bad that way, just gave a different effect. Experiment on scrap and you will get a feel for how it works.

Hope it works well,

Bob