Newbies First Holster...Fire Away!

[ydduit]

I figured I would give holster making a shot.

Here is my first attempt. It is 7/8 veg tanned shoulder from Zack White Leather, saddle stitched, Fiebings Mahogany dye, finished with Neatsfoot oil and Fiebings Bag Kote.

There are a few things that I can improve at and would do differently on my second attempt but for a first try I am very happy with the results.

It is for my Sig Sauer Mosquito .22.

Let me know what you feel needs improving and what you would have done differently.

[adaman04]

I think if my first one turns out that good I'll be pleased! I've got some leather on it's way and I'm ready to try my hand at it.

Stitching looks really nice. Did you mark your holes w/ an overstitch wheel, etc? What kind of thread did you use?

[ydduit]

I think if my first one turns out that good I'll be pleased! I've got some leather on it's way and I'm ready to try my hand at it.

Stitching looks really nice. Did you mark your holes w/ an overstitch wheel, etc? What kind of thread did you use?

Thanks for the kind words!

I marked the stitching with a 6:1" overstitch wheel then used a small drill in my drillpress to make the holes. I had one hole go bad when I let go of the powerhead on my drillpress and it dropped down drilling a hole in between marks. The thread I used was waxed brown nylon.

Good luck with your project! Hanging out here and reading is the best thing that you can do. I have learned so much here.

[CitizenKate]

I don't think I'm quite buyin' that you're a newb. I cannot speak to how well it might function as a holster, but as far as the looks go, I would have guessed it was made by someone more experienced. Nice work!

Kate

[Randyc]

Nice looking holster. My first couple of holsters were turned into dog toys. My only suggestion would be to run your stitch lines a little closer to the pistol in particular, the stitching around the bottom of the trigger guard. Keep up the good work, you will soon be dreaming up new holster designs when you sleep.

Randy

[TwinOaks]

Ditto Randy's comment on stitch lines. Also, you'll probably want smaller belt slots. The large slots are great for pushing a belt through, but tend to be counter productive at keeping the holster where you want it. It just moves around too much with that much slack in the holes.

Very clean job with the saddle stitching, it looks great. Last thing: I know this is for a .22 plinker, but for more serious duty holsters really look into a sight channel. It keeps the front sight from peeling leather on the way out, or getting hung up in the holster. I once argued against them.....well, I use them now. One of my great moments of "open mouth, insert foot".

[Rayban]

I also say good first attempt....other than getting the stitching closer to the contour of the gun, I would suggest rounding off those sharp corners a little. They will take some knocks and get dog-eared after a bit.

[ydduit]

Thanks all for the kind words.

There are a couple things that I will be doing differently with my next holsetr...one being the stitching. I was so worried about stitching too close to the gun that I mis-judged and didn't stitch close enough. Also when I burnished the edge I used beeswax...That is what I had always done on my knife sheaths but I soon found that the staining doesn't take very well with the edges coated in wax (I have never dyed before but it is just common semse that dye wouldn't penetrate the wax...I don't know what I was thinking...)

As for the sight channel, I took that into consideration...I used a third layer of 7/8 leather between the frunt and back peice that essentially creates the sight channel.

Thanks for the critiques and keep them coming...that is how one learns

[ABC3]

ydduit;

Nice job....

Boning - by hand or did you use a press. My first couple of holsters were not a pretty sight. In the trash they went.

[Dwight]

You wrote: "Let me know what you feel needs improving and what you would have done differently."

First, . . . that's a pretty good job for the first one, . . . mine was no where as good.

But: already been said, . . . get the stitch lines closer to the weapon, especially the trigger side, and don't be too concerned about making it too small. I've had to do some shoving, tugging, and pushing on some that wanted to be too small, . . . but in the end, . . . leather does stretch, . . .

Secondly, . . . get rid of the points on the outside edges, . . . and add smooth curved flowing lines to it. The straight cut across the front has little appeal.

Thirdly, . . . also been said, . . . tighten up the belt slots a bit, . . . they may not be big, but in the picture they have that appearance. You want the belt to go in with just enough clearance that it goes in without shoving. The holster will then adjust to the belt as you wear it.

A big "Yessir" to the sight channel, . . . I mold mine with a 3/16 inch dowel taped to the top of the handgun so I get a good sight channel.

You might also take the time to learn to mold more of the weapon to the outside, . . . leaving the back (inside) flatter, . . . it makes it MUCH, MUCH more comfortable.

Finally, . . . face the flesh side into the inside (next to the human body) on the back piece on a pancake holster, . . . it makes a better looking rig, . . . and it doesn't move around any where as much.

Last point, . . . you did one of my favorite tricks that others do not do, . . . that is to mold in the safety to the back tang. I think it is very important as it will keep the safety on and not slide off, . . . which is very important for me in anything but a 1911.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JRB]

I think most of the high points have already been hit on.

On the sight channel, I use the body of an ink pen (like a bic). A pen was handy on the first one I did, seemed to work, so I continued using it.

On the stitching, the guide that was suggested to me when I started was to measure the width of the gun, divide that in half and add about 1/16". That is how far your stitch lines should be from the outline of the gun. This has been pretty close for me on semi autos using 7/8 oz. leather. Not as easy on a revolver since it's not as clean of shape.

Keep it up and you'll keep improving. I've done 4 or 5 holsters and I think each one is getting better.

[skippy]

thats very nice...like the colour a lot.

a quick question as im a newbie as well,how does the neatsfoot oil effect the leather,i was told not to use it as it would soften the leather...has yours softened or not.

cheers mate

[Lobo]

thats very nice...like the colour a lot.

a quick question as im a newbie as well,how does the neatsfoot oil effect the leather,i was told not to use it as it would soften the leather...has yours softened or not.

cheers mate

The vegetable tanning process removes most of the moisture from a hide. Wet-forming further dries the leather. Neatsfoot oil replenishes the moisture, providing some protection against cracking during the flexing and stretching during use. Neatsfoot oil also provides some protection from moisture infiltration from humidity and perspiration.

Neatsfoot oil can easily be overdone and too much will make any leather article limp and useless. I use a single application to the smooth surfaces only right after the formed holster has dried completely, then allow the oil to settle in overnight. It will migrate through the leather and reach a balanced level of infusion.

Neatsfoot oil will significantly darken any dyed leather. I recommend experimenting on scrap leather to get the result that you want before proceeding with actual production.

There are others who will argue against any use of neatsfoot oil on formed holsters, and that is fine with me. I have been using this process for 38 years with excellent results, and many of my holsters remain in service after more than 30 years of use, so I will continue.

[katsass]

The vegetable tanning process removes most of the moisture from a hide. Wet-forming further dries the leather. Neatsfoot oil replenishes the moisture, providing some protection against cracking during the flexing and stretching during use. Neatsfoot oil also provides some protection from moisture infiltration from humidity and perspiration.

Neatsfoot oil can easily be overdone and too much will make any leather article limp and useless. I use a single application to the smooth surfaces only right after the formed holster has dried completely, then allow the oil to settle in overnight. It will migrate through the leather and reach a balanced level of infusion.

Neatsfoot oil will significantly darken any dyed leather. I recommend experimenting on scrap leather to get the result that you want before proceeding with actual production.

There are others who will argue against any use of neatsfoot oil on formed holsters, and that is fine with me. I have been using this process for 38 years with excellent results, and many of my holsters remain in service after more than 30 years of use, so I will continue.

Re: your question on neatsfoot oil, listen to Lobo. I make almost all of my holsters from two opposed layers of veg. tanned leather and dry the formed holster in the outside heat. (Where I am at, it is 78 degrees F. at 6:40 this morning........will get to 95 - 100 degrees with a humidity of 20 - 25% pretty damn soon) When done my holsters are very rigid and thoroughly dry. I then shoot them inside and out with a shot of neatsfoot through my airbrush, and allow them to sit and 'mellow out' for a day. I then apply my finish. Just as Lobo says, this replenishes necessary oils lost in the parging and molding processes, and is an important step IMO. I've been making holsters for over 30 years also.........but on a smaller scale than Lobo. Being retired and (some say) a grumpy old man, I work on what I want, when I want. That said, there are quite a few of my pieces out there 20 to 30 years old, still firm, solid pieces of working leather, and in use today. Just my 2 cent's worth. Mike

Edited June 28, 2010 by katsass

[gregintenn]

Round off the angles on your next one, and you'll be good to go. I think that's an awesome job; espscially for a first attempt!

Edited June 28, 2010 by gregintenn

[anubismp]

Great job. I'm by no means awesome and only have a few holsters in the wild but a tip I heard here that really helped with my stitch lines getting close to the gun was to do a quick non detailed wet mold first just to get the outline of the gun down and then you can do a stitch-line easily because you can see exactly where the leather will come together. Besides that it looks good. I take it you wrap the gun in saran wrap or something and wet mold over that? I personally like the detail that comes from oiling the pistol and molding without anything covering the gun but to each their own and as stated before I'm no where near a pro.

[Deanimator]

I hope my upcoming tuckable IWB looks as good. Personally, I'd be inclined to radius the places where there are sharp angles.