Moderator Art Posted March 31, 2009 Moderator Report Posted March 31, 2009 Well, as the facts go, the ad is right there in black and white. I merely said that Vern probably would not say the same thing on the phone. They book those ads a year at a time, they'll catch up with it eventually, asking on the phone is much more current in the time continuum. Art Has any one called weaver and asked Vernon about the add that says made in Germany? or are we all just guessing and making accusations without the facts? Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members Red744T Posted April 1, 2009 Members Report Posted April 1, 2009 Thanks everyone for the reply. As much as I dislike China, products made in China are a fact of life and at times unfortunately essential. I can still remember basic electronic products like power adapters being made in other part of the world, but now it's all China. They earned it with better quality and prices or just lower price. I'm one of those consumers who like to be lied to, I buy computers assembled in Mexico knowing full well that the components were made China but as long if it's stamped assembled in Mexico I feel a lot better. . . . Somehow I feel that if the machines are assembled in US or other democratic countries, we would at least have some control over the final manufacturing process and keep the possibility of future manufacturing alive. . . . maybe I went through one too may duck and cover drills when younger and I guess I haven't quite adapted to the "service economy" mindset. I look to Japan/Europe and I still see basic everyday items such as cameras, watches, and pens being made and I wonder why can't we do the same here in the US. Anyway, from reading the the forum I gather that Campbell Bosworth, Union, and Randal are all out of my price range. Tipperman Boss is a manual machine and I don't know how well it can scale up for production. Tippmann Aerostitch seems like a good candidate but I can't find any information on Tipperman website. How do the Aerostich, the Adler 205 currently for sale on a separate thread, and the Toro 3000 compare? I like the feel of heavier leather and heavier threads but my Brother 797 will only reliably sew up to 138 and I'm still having trouble getting enough upper thread tension. I want to start out making simple products such as mousepads, key trays and move onto small leather case products such as knive/pen/cigar/key cases. Thanks, John On a sidenote, I have a CNC milling maching so if anyone is intereted in making some sewing machine parts in the US, please let me know. However, I only know a little more about CNC milling than sewing but I'll do my best to accommodate any requests. Quote
esantoro Posted April 1, 2009 Report Posted April 1, 2009 Thanks everyone for the reply. As much as I dislike China, products made in China are a fact of life and at times unfortunately essential. I can still remember basic electronic products like power adapters being made in other part of the world, but now it's all China. They earned it with better quality and prices or just lower price. I'm one of those consumers who like to be lied to, I buy computers assembled in Mexico knowing full well that the components were made China but as long if it's stamped assembled in Mexico I feel a lot better. . . . Somehow I feel that if the machines are assembled in US or other democratic countries, we would at least have some control over the final manufacturing process and keep the possibility of future manufacturing alive. . . . maybe I went through one too may duck and cover drills when younger and I guess I haven't quite adapted to the "service economy" mindset. I look to Japan/Europe and I still see basic everyday items such as cameras, watches, and pens being made and I wonder why can't we do the same here in the US. Anyway, from reading the the forum I gather that Campbell Bosworth, Union, and Randal are all out of my price range. Tipperman Boss is a manual machine and I don't know how well it can scale up for production. Tippmann Aerostitch seems like a good candidate but I can't find any information on Tipperman website. How do the Aerostich, the Adler 205 currently for sale on a separate thread, and the Toro 3000 compare? I like the feel of heavier leather and heavier threads but my Brother 797 will only reliably sew up to 138 and I'm still having trouble getting enough upper thread tension. I want to start out making simple products such as mousepads, key trays and move onto small leather case products such as knive/pen/cigar/key cases. Thanks, John On a sidenote, I have a CNC milling maching so if anyone is intereted in making some sewing machine parts in the US, please let me know. However, I only know a little more about CNC milling than sewing but I'll do my best to accommodate any requests. I'm not sure if this is a matter of milling, but what about making some kind of a steel plate that could accept one to three 36 pt initials in alignment. The plate with the installed initials can then be placed in a two-ton arbor press or the like. The only thing that has to be made is the plate to hold the initials. I'll buy the set of the initials, if anyone has ideas for how to make the holding plate. Perhaps we can take a look at some of the gilding presses to get an idea for how the letters are held in place. Ed Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
Members skipj Posted April 1, 2009 Members Report Posted April 1, 2009 Art, Yes, you've answered my questions. It's interesting that they aren't made as leather machines. I can see where a good distributor can make all the difference even without the support angle. So it seems the importers do put some parts ("changing parts") in. SkipJ Quote
Members Red744T Posted April 1, 2009 Members Report Posted April 1, 2009 I'm not sure if this is a matter of milling, but what about making some kind of a steel plate that could accept one to three 36 pt initials in alignment. The plate with the installed initials can then be placed in a two-ton arbor press or the like.The only thing that has to be made is the plate to hold the initials. I'll buy the set of the initials, if anyone has ideas for how to make the holding plate. Perhaps we can take a look at some of the gilding presses to get an idea for how the letters are held in place. Ed, Does it look something like the following. It's basically a rectangular holder with socket head cap screws on one end to hold the initials in place. I don't know well they work because we usually only use mounted copper dies in place of the initial holder. How tall are your initials and how wide do you need the openings to be? How will you attach the holder to your press? Thermo adhesive film? screws? Maybe we can start a new thread at a different forum since I've strayed quite a bit from the initial topic. John Quote
esantoro Posted April 1, 2009 Report Posted April 1, 2009 Ed,Does it look something like the following. It's basically a rectangular holder with socket head cap screws on one end to hold the initials in place. I don't know well they work because we usually only use mounted copper dies in place of the initial holder. How tall are your initials and how wide do you need the openings to be? How will you attach the holder to your press? Thermo adhesive film? screws? Maybe we can start a new thread at a different forum since I've strayed quite a bit from the initial topic. John Hi John, I think we should keep this thread here. It's relevant. I'll have to call around to get the dimensions of the letter blocks. My guess is that they are about 1" by 1". I'll ask the folks who have the Kwikprint and Kingsley presses, as I'd be buying an alphabet set that fits one or both of those presses. This plate would simply be placed on top of the leather on a 2-ton arbor press. the 1.25 sq. inch ram would press down on it. There is no need for any special fitting for the press. This block just has to hold three initials. What you have made seems like it would work well. An all steel block would be even better. Thanks for your reply. Ed Ed,Does it look something like the following. It's basically a rectangular holder with socket head cap screws on one end to hold the initials in place. I don't know well they work because we usually only use mounted copper dies in place of the initial holder. How tall are your initials and how wide do you need the openings to be? How will you attach the holder to your press? Thermo adhesive film? screws? Maybe we can start a new thread at a different forum since I've strayed quite a bit from the initial topic. John After realizing there these posts are in the thread, maybe it's a good idea to start a new thread, or repost this info to the thread I started on the very topic. How big are the letters in the block you made? Do you know where they can be bought? Ed Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
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