Trav Report post Posted March 27, 2009 I have some new stamps from HC which are a little better than Tandy.I want to improve them, if I can, by removing the chrome plating. Anyone have an idea about doing this? Trav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cybertracy Report post Posted March 27, 2009 I too was told by a sadllemaker in my area to improve my Tandy tools I should remove the chrome. He suggested a light wire brush keeping the tool cool by dipping it frequently in water, but if anyone has a better suggestion (I'm a bit leary of the bench grinder on these tools) I would be ever so grateful! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted March 27, 2009 Unfortionatly, chrome plating is tough to get off. You will likely do so much damage to the tool removing it that it will have little resemblance to the origional. Also most of the steel is not hard enough to last if the plating were not there (the plating is the "hardest" part). It would be easier to start from scratch than to dechrome, repair and then use the tool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted March 28, 2009 TRAV................why not just us them to wear the plating off ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted March 28, 2009 I think it was Marlon (Rawhide) who said Peter Main burns the chrome off of his stamps. How he does it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rhonda Report post Posted March 28, 2009 I have to agree with Luke, use the tools, to wear the plating off. I have found chrome flakes, after tooling a project. It is the chrome coming off on its own. Rhonda Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Papa Leather Report post Posted March 28, 2009 I found several references to removing chrome from metal. I have not tried these and can not vouch for them. I am only providing the information. The procedure is very much the same as removing rust but with different chemical. First, degrease completely and scrub thoroughly with detergent. Mix 1 cup of Muriatic acid with 3 gallons of water in a plastic bucket. NOTE; ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. NEVER WATER TO ACID !!! (It WILL explode) Hang two or three copper wires (#12 or larger) around sides of bucket. Connect these to ground of battery charger. Hang item to be de-chromed in fluid with positive lead connected. Be sure part doesn't touch ground wires. Within a few seconds or minutes, depending on thickness of chrome, it should come clean. More or less time as required. When finished, wash parts in mild soda water solution to neutralize acid. (Do this right way to prevent rust) As with any caustic acid, handle with care. Again use at your own risk. Allen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
china Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Why should one remove the chrome plate. china Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trav Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Iwas trying to say thanks for all the replies and help but I cant seem to get the reply to upload Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted March 28, 2009 I think it was Marlon (Rawhide) who said Peter Main burns the chrome off of his stamps. How he does it... During one workshop I took with Peter, he showed us some of his tools that he had removed the chrome plating from. My notes say: "Remove the chrome with a propane torch and steel brush, then buff." I tried this method, and was indeed able to remove the chrome from some of my tools without much difficulty at all, and without causing any damage to the underlying metal. It is possible to damage the tool if you get too carried away with the heat or the brushing. Kate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Why should one remove the chrome plate.china The quality of the Crafttools is very low. Few of them are shaped properly to do the job they were origionally designed to do. The unfortionate part is that they have gotten bigger over the years, making it impossible to do fine or intricate tooling. The chrome also smooths out the impressions that the tool is making. Many people resort to regrinding the tools to be the proper size, this is where the chrome really is a problem. Chrome plating is very hard. the metal the Crafttools are made from is very soft. So, they are easy to reshape, once the chrome is gone. The trouble is that it is tough to remove a hard coating that is stuck to a soft underlayer (think of it like trying to peal a hard boiled egg that has stuck to the white. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BearMan Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Hi, Yes, it's pretty easy to remove the chrome. All you need is a torch, & a wire brush. Just heat the tool enough to make the metal expand a little, NOT red hot, & then wire brush while hot. Be sure to wear eye protection, & not near anything flamable!! By heating the tool, it cracks the chrome, making it easy to remove. Chrome, by it's nature, kinda fills in the recesses, & grooves of the tool, making it less crisp. Once removed, & polished, you will see the way the tool should be. One thing to concider though. Steel by itself, will blacken damp leather. Thats the reason they need to be polished well. Even after polishing, it still happens a little. Not a big problem. If it still happens, just wipe the affected area with Lemon juice, & the stain will disappear! I hope this help,,, Ed The quality of the Crafttools is very low. Few of them are shaped properly to do the job they were origionally designed to do. The unfortionate part is that they have gotten bigger over the years, making it impossible to do fine or intricate tooling. The chrome also smooths out the impressions that the tool is making.Many people resort to regrinding the tools to be the proper size, this is where the chrome really is a problem. Chrome plating is very hard. the metal the Crafttools are made from is very soft. So, they are easy to reshape, once the chrome is gone. The trouble is that it is tough to remove a hard coating that is stuck to a soft underlayer (think of it like trying to peal a hard boiled egg that has stuck to the white. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cybertracy Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Also consider the weld on some of the craftools may come apart if too much pressure is applied to the tip while wire brushing. I was warned to keep the tool as cool as possible when using a fine wire wheel to buff off the chrome. I had some luck using a stainless steel wire brush with a dremel (without heating the tool), but it took a VERY long time to get it naked. I'll try the torch method, if I brake a few they are cheap to replace (hence the problem in the first place!) Thank you Trav & all for this topic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
china Report post Posted March 29, 2009 Thanks china The quality of the Crafttools is very low. Few of them are shaped properly to do the job they were origionally designed to do. The unfortionate part is that they have gotten bigger over the years, making it impossible to do fine or intricate tooling. The chrome also smooths out the impressions that the tool is making.Many people resort to regrinding the tools to be the proper size, this is where the chrome really is a problem. Chrome plating is very hard. the metal the Crafttools are made from is very soft. So, they are easy to reshape, once the chrome is gone. The trouble is that it is tough to remove a hard coating that is stuck to a soft underlayer (think of it like trying to peal a hard boiled egg that has stuck to the white. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trav Report post Posted March 30, 2009 Thanks to all for your input. Trav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
