Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted March 6, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted March 6, 2008 Marlon, you're right about the dremel. This is why, if you're going to use one, it needs to be in a dremel drill press or in some sort of jig that keeps the the drill bit (&, of course, the holes, by extension,) straight & aligned.russ Gee, is that why the stitching holes I make with a cordless drill are all over the place????? Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Members DCKNIVES Posted March 6, 2008 Members Report Posted March 6, 2008 Here's how I do mine. Instead of drilling, I sharpen the shank end of the drill bit and punch it while the press is running. The hole is much cleaner and it burnishes the hole.After stitching the holes will close up on the thread much better.I also made a seperate table(covered with UHMW for easy sliding) for my drill press and use notched boards ( for the belt loop on sheaths) to keep the leather flat. Works great for me and its fast.Dave Quote http://dcknivesandle...lademakers.com/
Billsotx Posted March 7, 2008 Report Posted March 7, 2008 You're giving away the secrets. Why not put a nice sharp and stropped awl blade in the drill press, set it at the correct angle to the stitch line and end up with nice holes that look like they were hand punched with an awl? SSShhhhhhhhh.... don't give up the secrets .... Quote
Members DCKNIVES Posted March 7, 2008 Members Report Posted March 7, 2008 That works too. Dave :D Quote http://dcknivesandle...lademakers.com/
howardb Posted March 7, 2008 Report Posted March 7, 2008 Rayban, Nice sheath man! I love it. Suits the knife well too. I think we should use what works for us, and if that works - cool! I've tried multiprong punches, diamond awl, etc. and unless it's going straight up & down, it looks bad on the back with all of them. I wonder if I can adapt the stamping press thingy to hold the punch somehow. A talented engineer like me (snicker) should be able to figure something out! No drill press available or I'd be all over that! Anyway my question of the day for you is... (drumroll please) Do you have trouble with the stitches wanting to pull through the leather? I've got a practice piece and with an Osborn D0249 (a 5 prong punch), it doesn't take much pull at all to cut right through the leather. A similar tool with a slightly wider spacing didn't seem to have the tendancy to cut so deep and easy. This could VERY well be old dried out leather and that's the problem; but I figured I'd ask since you have fairly dense stitching and small thread, and beautiful results. Could it be machine vs hand? Thanks, Brent Quote Brent Howard CALG, HLG
Members Rawhide Posted March 7, 2008 Members Report Posted March 7, 2008 (edited) Has anyone thought to chuck an awl blade in the drill press and use scrap leather on the bottom. (Don't turn the drill on of course) but this way you could get straight holes. Just an idea. Hey Bill I just read your post. How great minds think alike. Edited March 7, 2008 by Rawhide Quote Marlon
Members DCKNIVES Posted March 7, 2008 Members Report Posted March 7, 2008 The only problem I can see using the drill press with the awl is keeping it aligned because the chuck would rotate too easily. I think a modified arbor press might work better. They can be had pretty cheap and the mods aren't that difficult.Dave here's one I modified for my makers stamp Quote http://dcknivesandle...lademakers.com/
Members Romey Posted March 7, 2008 Members Report Posted March 7, 2008 On my sheaths i chuck up a awl or somtimes a needle in press and do the FRONT side and welt of the sheath then glue it and use hand awl to find the back side. If i use the needle i turn the press on it seems to burnish the hole a bit if i use awl i just press through. Anyway thats how i keep the holes straight. Quote Romey Cowboy inc highcountryknives
Members Rayban Posted March 7, 2008 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2008 let me see the back of it......that will tell the tale......... I had to deliver the sheath before I could take the picture of it's back-side. Guess, you'll have to take my word for it...it looked pretty much like the front. Again, going through 6 layers of leather, the drill press beats the heck out of the awl, in my opinion. AND....the customer loved it, and has ordered another one. Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
Members Rayban Posted March 7, 2008 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2008 Rayban,Nice sheath man! I love it. Suits the knife well too. I think we should use what works for us, and if that works - cool! I've tried multiprong punches, diamond awl, etc. and unless it's going straight up & down, it looks bad on the back with all of them. I wonder if I can adapt the stamping press thingy to hold the punch somehow. A talented engineer like me (snicker) should be able to figure something out! No drill press available or I'd be all over that! Anyway my question of the day for you is... (drumroll please) Do you have trouble with the stitches wanting to pull through the leather? I've got a practice piece and with an Osborn D0249 (a 5 prong punch), it doesn't take much pull at all to cut right through the leather. A similar tool with a slightly wider spacing didn't seem to have the tendancy to cut so deep and easy. This could VERY well be old dried out leather and that's the problem; but I figured I'd ask since you have fairly dense stitching and small thread, and beautiful results. Could it be machine vs hand? Thanks, Brent Brent, the thread pulling thru has not been a problem with my hand-stitching. I wonder if you have a machine tension thingy issue?? I supposs I could use a #5 instead of a #6 wheel in those really thick 6 layer areas.... BTW, I mostly use artificial sinew with the sheaths I make. Thanks for your kind, and understanding words. R P.S. I found my table top model drill press in Craig's List for $30. Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
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