Members whithead Posted March 10, 2008 Members Report Posted March 10, 2008 I tried to get some Barge Cement for my first saddle at Tandy the the other day and was told I have to be a pro to buy it... What else do you folks use, why do you like it and where do you get it? Thanks in advance! Quote
JRLeather2 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Posted March 10, 2008 I use and like this stuff, and you can get it at any home depot or lowes or menards type store.... Quote
Members JustWakinUp Posted March 10, 2008 Members Report Posted March 10, 2008 I tried to get some Barge Cement for my first saddle at Tandy the the other day and was told I have to be a pro to buy it...What else do you folks use, why do you like it and where do you get it? Thanks in advance! I use barge & I use Masters. I order online. Quote
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted March 10, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted March 10, 2008 justwakinup. can you get the" TannersBond Contact "at your Tandys if you can you will be very pleased with the product, I am. Quote Luke
Members Duke Posted March 10, 2008 Members Report Posted March 10, 2008 you dont have to be a pro to buy barge, you just cant purchase in larger quantities without a federal tax ID number. you can still get a 2 oz. tube over the counter. tanners bond rubber cement or contact cement works good too, but I stick with barge, as I feel it is the best on the market. Quote Duke When I stand before God at the end of my life, I would hope that I would not have a single bit of talent left, and could say, "I used everything you gave me." ~Erma Bombeck
howardb Posted March 11, 2008 Report Posted March 11, 2008 I tried to get some Barge Cement for my first saddle at Tandy the the other day and was told I have to be a pro to buy it...What else do you folks use, why do you like it and where do you get it? Thanks in advance! That may be the best avatar on record. If I'd been drinking something, it would have shot out my nose. Thank you for brightening my day! Oh and I use the weldwood/dap stuff too, as do several pro's I know. The trick (as I learned at the guild meeting yesterday) is to let it DRY for 10-15 minutes before sticking them together, and then press the liner in hard (he used a 1.5" dowel, but I suppose a J-roller would work too). At Menards/Lowe's/Home Depot, you don't have to be a "pro" to buy it by the gallon... Brent Quote Brent Howard CALG, HLG
SCOUTER Posted March 11, 2008 Report Posted March 11, 2008 Whitehead- I always hated contact cement... Never thought it was strong enough and very tempermental. Have you ever tried Fieblings (white) leather cement? That stuff is awesome! STRONG as heck! Quote
Members AndyKnight Posted March 11, 2008 Members Report Posted March 11, 2008 contact cement from a building supply will work as well as barge on skirting leather. Use a leather roughener and it will stick ..to where you won't be wanting to pull it apart. I also use a latex contact cement from Helmefix. Great but the drying time is longer and even more so on cased leather but no fumes. Quote Andy knight Visit My Website
Contributing Member barra Posted March 11, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted March 11, 2008 I tend to use whatever contact is going. On a side note does anyone think dextrine/hide glue still has a place in this day and age for certain applications. I don't think that we would ever totally go back to it over modern contact cements but with hide glue you can reactivate it with the application of mild heat. With contact cement, yes you can apply wet to both surfaces and get a little lee way with repositioning before it goes off, however once it has gone off that's it, game over. Barra Quote "If You're not behind the Troops, please feel free to stand in front of them"
Sandy Robbins Posted March 11, 2008 Report Posted March 11, 2008 I use Duall #88 cement. I got mine from Siegels of California. Quote Sandy
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