Perfect Hand Stitching Photos

[katsass]

Well, FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I don't know if one considers this is 'perfect', but it's about as good as this old fart can do;

[ouchmyfinger]

Here's a couple of photos of some sewing I did the other day that turned out pretty good. The cantle binding and inlaid seat were both handsewn in the first photo, the second photo shows a handsewn horncap. People sometimes ask if I sew saddles with a dremel drill... personally, I find it insulting but I guess it's people who just don't know any better.

D.

good work, what thread do you use? it seems like that is the one thing that I'm missing, i am never happy with the thickness of the thread in ratio with my stitching holes

[D.A. Kabatoff]

good work, what thread do you use? it seems like that is the one thing that I'm missing, i am never happy with the thickness of the thread in ratio with my stitching holes

The thread used in the photos was an 8 cord linen that I picked up at a local shoe repair supply house... it's really heavier than necessary and more often than not I use a six cord thread for a more refined look. I usually sew either six or seven stitches per inch and use a Bob Douglas awl. When I got my awls from Bob, he was only making two sizes but since they are handmade they are all a bit different... I asked him to pick out the narrowest ones he had.

Darcy

[ouchmyfinger]

The thread used in the photos was an 8 cord linen that I picked up at a local shoe repair supply house... it's really heavier than necessary and more often than not I use a six cord thread for a more refined look. I usually sew either six or seven stitches per inch and use a Bob Douglas awl. When I got my awls from Bob, he was only making two sizes but since they are handmade they are all a bit different... I asked him to pick out the narrowest ones he had.

Darcy

i was looking for the linen thread and saw that they sell it in both left and right spun options, i figured i would ask why? i mean i didn't think there would be a difference but there must be if they make both options

thanks

[Kevin]

Some of the older sewing machines require one twist on top and another on the bottom.

Kevin

[Jaymack]

http://www.wrtcleather.com/

In my opinion the worlds best unknown leatherworker, everything he touches to my knowledge is hand stitched.

Yep, I've learned from his tutorial!

http://wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html

[LeatherLegion]

Still learning for now but here is my best so far... i also posted a picture in "Critique my work" too .I don't have the courage yet to hand stitch anything else but left-overs...1 ply pieces of leather...lol...This one here is 5 stitches/inch and i am using #415 thread . I tried a straight line and also a curve...which i thought it's gonna be a bit more harder.

I just got my hands on some linen and that's gonna be my next project . Any oppinions are more then welcome..especially critiques.

Thank you !

[jk215]

Yep, I've learned from his tutorial!

http://wrtcleather.c...therstitch.html

I just read through this tutorial and not sure if I understand his process. First he pokes his holes on the face, then glues, then pokes again all the way through. After that goes to the other side and pokes back through to even it out. So hes doing a total of three rounds? Would this also apply to things like wallets?

[daviD A Morris]

i was looking for the linen thread and saw that they sell it in both left and right spun options, i figured i would ask why? i mean i didn't think there would be a difference but there must be if they make both options

thanks

When hand stitching, a person stitching right-handed is best using a "right-hand lay" or "S" twisted thread. If you use a "left-lay" thread it tends to come un-twisted. I'd been stitching for 14 years before I went to england and found that out. When I started in the trade we made all our own threads and naturaly enough they were right hand twist, thats how you make them.

I've been having trouble sourcing right-hand lay linen thread here in Australia. #29 ouchmyfinger can you tell me where were you looking to scource it?

thanks

dam

[25b]

There are multiple threads on here that state that "S" and "Z" threads only make a difference in use in sewing machines.

[bkm]

I also became convinced that S and Z threads do make a difference in hand stitching. However, it is not based on whether you are left or right-handed. The difference is made based on whether your stitching twists S, Z or is straight. As you lay the cables through the awl holes, is one cable passing over, under, over under... or the other, or is one always on top. If you always stitch with the same needle-handling, you will be twisting them S or Z because the needles are alternating and your hand technique is not. If you alternate your needles and your handling technique, then they will be straight.

A right-handed person can use either S or Z twisted cable, but they should pay attention to whether their stitching is twisting the two cables S or Z, or straight.

[bkm]

Here are two Z-twist cables in Z-twist

Here are two Z-twist cables in S-twist

I didn't do anything to these cables except twist two of them together either S or Z, the same way they would be twisted were they stitched in leather, except I twisted them more turns per length than most stitching would result in to exaggerate the effect.

[bkm]

I just read through this tutorial and not sure if I understand his process. First he pokes his holes on the face, then glues, then pokes again all the way through. After that goes to the other side and pokes back through to even it out. So hes doing a total of three rounds? Would this also apply to things like wallets?

It doesn't make sense to me to punch the leather three times. Every time you put the awl in, you're cutting some leather fibers making the leather weaker around the hole and making it so the hole will close-up to a larger size. Ideally, the awl only pushes the fibers to the side, the needle goes through with the thread, and the fibers close-up around the thread. Practically, the awl cuts some fibers. The fewer the better.

Edit: reading more carefully, it looks like the welt being sewn amounts to 6 layers of 8 oz. which would be 3/4" of leather. I regularly sew up to half an inch with a single awl pierce but I have not tried 3/4". I imagine the technique is to obtain good alignment of the holes through all the layers.

Edited April 29, 2015 by bkm

[goodfella]

one I did a few years ago not doing any hand work at all anymore

[Boriqua]

Here's a couple of photos of some sewing I did the other day that turned out pretty good. The cantle binding and inlaid seat were both handsewn in the first photo, the second photo shows a handsewn horncap. People sometimes ask if I sew saddles with a dremel drill... personally, I find it insulting but I guess it's people who just don't know any better.

D.

Dude you are my new hero!!!!!! That is stunning stitching

Edited May 18, 2015 by Boriqua

[TinkerTailor]

Here is a couple of pics of a baseball stitch i did for a commission to design a custom leather mounting solution for a titanium bicycle lock. The thing rattled and chipped paint really bad with the factory mount.

This is done with 7 oz chrome tan wax stuffed leather and .06 tiger thread. I had to use the tiger cause the lock model is the TiGr......

It took alot of force to wrap leather that thick around a curve that small. I think it turned out good. I just need to refine the strap ends and hardware and she is done.

My bike is dirty.......

Edited May 21, 2015 by TinkerTailor

[daviD A Morris]

BKM,

That makes sense, I'd never analysed it like that. And I just assumed all right handers who were taught in the trade lay the stitches the same way. Saddlers' pricking irons are all layed the same way, however "port-manto" pricking irons used by lugage and case makers go the other way. They prick both sides of their work.

[Joon1911]

I don't know if it's perfect... although it looks damn good to me. This is one of a few bags I have made by hand.

-Andy

Andy,

Can you share with me what sort of stamps/ tooling are you using to get the background effect on the flap of the bag? Thanks.

-Joon

[laurensiusadi]

This is my first post on the forum!

Personally I liked korean leatherworkers! They use fine stitching and the details!

My personal favorite is Loihoon Leathers Atelier

[Boriqua]

Dont know that I will ever achieve perfect but ... I will keep try'in!!

http://boriqualeather.com/Glock%2019%20pink%20inlay/