Stitching patches on leather motorcycle jackets

[UKRay]

This week I was approached by three very, very large and exceptionally hairy bikers who want me to stitch patches on their leather jackets. Individually they are impressive, as a set they are outstanding - they are also extremely funny and we spent an hilarious couple of hours over a few beers before doing the deal. Most importantly, these guys have lots of friends and there isn't anyone else offering this service for miles. I could do with the extra business.

Before I start work I just thought I'd run this one past the gang to learn what can go wrong, what I need to make sure I do and how to guarantee a successful job. The leathers look expensive and I really don't want to screw up just because I didn't ask y'all.

Bree - this is definitely one for you, but anyone else's opinion would be gratefully received.

I plan on using my trusty 29K4 with UK #40 thread.

Where do I start and finish - to stick or not to stick; and what do I stick 'em with?

Over to you guys...

[Jordan]

Can't be of much help other than it seems pretty straight forward, as long as you check if the leathers have a removable liner so you don't sew through that. And Bree is a few days into a 10 day fishing vacation from what I read. There are a few others here that do patches so I think you will get a lot of advise.

[Randy Cornelius]

I have done several of these jobs as I belong to the Blue Knights motorcycle club. I always stick them down before I sew as I don't want them moving while I sew them. That way I don't get any pucker. It is better to use a table top so you can get them as flat as possible. I glue the patches down with a glue I get at Wally word call Fabric Tac" it is a clear glue that bonds in seconds. I always let it set for 15 minutes or so before I start. This seems to work for me. As far as where to start, I always sew on the center or biggest patch first. As long as you glue them down I don't see why you cannot start anywhere.

Randy

[Luke Hatley]

Ray welcome to the Biker World .

I have no problem sewing thru the lining. Most of the Bikers that i deal with dont care if i

sew thru the lining. Every now and then someone will not want it sewn thru the lining

and they pay a high price . Just take a look as to what it takes to do it, then you'll

see as to why.

I will use double face tape or Fabric-tack glue to hold the patches in place.

most of the patches i sew with my singer 31-15, leather point needle &

size 69 thread.

When i use the patch machine i am placeing a patch where there is a pocket on the inside

of the item. or on a sleve.

I will say this "you get one shot at it" , because the Jacket or Vest is his, and you trust the Machine.

have fun, and dont let the Big Burley Blooks mess with you...

[Jordan]

I was thinking of the removable zippered liner like the jacket I have, it is well hidden by a flap and I didn't even know it was removable until a few weeks after I had bought it.

[celticleather]

Ray

We do quite a lot of this at the shop. I always ensure that the jacket/waistcoat owner is aware that I will be sewing through the lining, and I check that it will not entail stitching through an inside pocket.

I stick the patches to the coat with double-sided tape, and stitch as close to the edge of the patch as possible. I've found it best to use the flat table on our 29K, to reduce the risk of the lining puckering.

Terry

Edited May 11, 2009 by celticleather

[broncobuster]

I do biker partys n rallys n put thousands of patches on and being at a rally theres no room for mistakes n done in timely fashion. but mistakes do happen just be slow and precise. always check your liner n make sure coat is flat on table and be careful not to pull on liner as ya stitch. the mesh liners are more slippery n difficult sometimes. watch for padding and hidden zippers and the padding pockets inside in liner. I also sell patches and have over 1000 different patches. square edge patches are easy(round also) but the sqiggly, wavy, n pointed type edges can be a pain in the kister. sewing patches on is majority of my work along with selling the patches. every weekend Im at a party n sewing sewing sewing lol. if ya using the 29 hope you have a table for it. big patches can be very difficult to deal with on one of those. I use mine only for pockets n sleeves. have fun Bronco

[Ian]

Ray, I use spray adhesive - just the lightest spritz, wait a second to let it get tacky, and that's plenty to hold it in place to sew. That way they are removable or movable, if need be.

Also before I do that, I place them and measure side to side and up and down to make sure they are centered. Then put little tabs of masking tape as register marks, so I can place them exactly. That is only on large back or three piece patches. The small ones I do by eye. Most of the clubs are pretty particular about the placement, so I alway tell those guys to place them in the exact position they want them and then center them with a ruler. That way it's not my fault if they aren't sewn to club specs. That exact thing happened on Saturday, when a guy called at 6am, frantic because he had got the position of his center patch wrong and needed it moved an inch higher before he could go on a run later that morning. For that reason, I'm glad I stopped glueing them down permenantly before sewing.

[cdthayer]

I plan on using my trusty 29K4 with UK #40 thread.

Where do I start and finish - to stick or not to stick; and what do I stick 'em with?

We have put most of our own patches on our own biker vests, although we've had Vendors put some on while we were at the rally where we bought the patches. My wife put a bunch of them on with a home sewing machine (an old JC Penny free-arm machine) using common Coats & Clark Dual Duty thread. She pinned them. They've been on there for years, through more than one rain storm, and are still firmly attached with no problems. We've never sewn a patch onto our coats, which are thicker. All of the patches go on our vests that have thin liners.

We sew a few patches onto biker vests at our shop, and have probably "moved" as many as we have added new ones. So far, all of the patches that we've sewn on have been on non-club vests for recreational bikers with no set standards as to where a patch goes. We have the customer put the patch where they like it, and we sew it on for them. Then, later on, they'll come in with a new patch that they like better, and want it put where we put the last one. LOL! We've tried a variety of methods to keep patches from moving while we're attaching them, but they all seem to have some kind of problem. Two-sided tape doesn't always stick good enough to "seasoned" leather. Pins work ok, but are hard to insert and can cause puckering, and some folks don't like for us to add more holes to their leather without putting thread in it. (Remember, a lot of these jobs include moving a patch, so there's already going to be several unfilled holes and another hole or two from a pin isn't an issue for them.) One customer brought in his vest with duct tape rolled and placed under the patch. Worked really good to hold the patch for me, but then one day I had to move a patch that had been stuck with duct tape about 5-6 years earlier. Wasn't hard to get the patch off, the tape "cloth" just fell out when I removed the stitches, but the gum from the tape was on there like concrete. We are going to start using Fabri-tac sparingly (just a few dots around the patch), but it's a permanent bond and I'm concerned about how it "untacks" after time. We're still looking for a better solution. I may try the sprits of spray adhesive.

At the shop, my wife puts patches on leather vests with a Singer 401A and Dual Duty thread, just like she does on uniform shirts. I use a Consew 225 for flat patches, especially large back patches, and a 29k70 (without table extension) for patches over pockets. I use whatever thread I have that matches the patch border color, but like to use V92. If a patch is only partially over a pocket, I sew what I can with the Consew first, and then finish up on the boot patcher. I've had problems keeping the lining straight with the 29k. I usually start sewing at the bottom of the patch for some reason. I'm not sure why. And from the looks of the patches coming into the shop lately, I think that patch makers have a contest going on to see how many points and curved edges they can design into them....

CD in Oklahoma

[UKRay]

Well, I read everything y'all had to say and did my first patch today. The reality was a whole lot easier than I imagined. It took a couple of minutes and everyone went away happy.

The thing that made it easy was being prepared and having the confidence to do the job. I had all the questions ready - do you mind if I stitch through the lining? I had glue to hand and double sided tape at my side. I had the machine ready - bobbin full and ready to roar. The job was a breeze and he is coming back with two more hairy biker mates at the weekend.

Thanks guys you really helped.

Ray

[Luke Hatley]

AW Shucks twernt nothing...........we just wanted to build your confidence up....

[Ian]

This is quite timely. Yesterday a guy called from a club that is moving from another state to mine, so he needs all the bottom rockers changed - no problem, but heres the sticky part. The vests were all custom made, and the patches sewn on before they were lined, so he wants the change done the same way - not sewn through the lining. I haven't seen them yet, but I'm picturing what it will be like, undoing the lining (hopefully I'll just have to unpick the bottom seam on the back). There are only 10 members in the chapter, but I'm anticipating this to be quite a job. Fortunately, with this kind of stuff, there is no material cost involved, so beyond the time, it's all profit.

But, I'm happy to add a new club to my customers. I do work for 7 clubs now, and they always result in more leather business of other types. So, it was a good score.

[Ian]

Well, I read everything y'all had to say

Ray

Ray, you've got a good start on the lingo you'll need for your move to Tennessee

[Bree]

This week I was approached by three very, very large and exceptionally hairy bikers who want me to stitch patches on their leather jackets. Individually they are impressive, as a set they are outstanding - they are also extremely funny and we spent an hilarious couple of hours over a few beers before doing the deal. Most importantly, these guys have lots of friends and there isn't anyone else offering this service for miles. I could do with the extra business.

Before I start work I just thought I'd run this one past the gang to learn what can go wrong, what I need to make sure I do and how to guarantee a successful job. The leathers look expensive and I really don't want to screw up just because I didn't ask y'all.

Bree - this is definitely one for you, but anyone else's opinion would be gratefully received.

I plan on using my trusty 29K4 with UK #40 thread.

Where do I start and finish - to stick or not to stick; and what do I stick 'em with?

Over to you guys...

Sorry for the delay. I have been recuperating in the mountains... on Piney Mountain to be quite specific. Didn't catch any fish though I had fun trying... came pretty darn close... but brook trout have an innate instinct to avoid impaling themselves on hooks!!

Lots of good comments from the peeps. Not sure that I can add much. I have tried a lot of ways to sew on patches for bikers and I am always trying new things. What I have come to believe is that first you have to somehow immobilize the patch to prevent any movement as you sew. I used to use a technique I learned from an old biker leather guy named Ray Pruitt. He liked to contact cement down the patches. He would slap on some cement on the patch and then some where it was to go... wait 10 mins... apply it and sew. He also used 29-4's for his work.

I changed that and applied the cement to the patch only and while it was wet pressed it on the leather in the position I wanted it to go and then immediately removed it. That creates and exact image of the cement. Wait for it to dry and apply then sew.

I did that for a long time but it has three serious faults... first, it wastes a lot of time waiting for the glue to dry; second, it exposes you to a lot of VOC vapor; and third, you have to get the positioning exactly right in one shot or start peeling away the contact cemented patch and maybe start over.

Fabri-Tac and similar permanent cements share similar problems. Temp solutions like rubber cement never stuck well enough to ensure no movement while the piece was being sewn. Often times I roll heavy vests and jackets to fit them under the machine arm and to maintain tension to prevent any "bubbles" on the front or the back lining. It also helps inadvertantly sewing something that you definitely don't want to sew that somehow sneaks underneath and you can't see it. That is a VERY expensive mistake as you may have to buy the customer a new leather.

The way that I have settled on for the time being is to use carpet tape... double sided with a very thin adhesive layer. There are other kinds like wood turners double sided tape which is very tacky and very thick. There are tapes with essentially a film or cloth layer with adhesive on both sides.

I want a very thin film or even glue-only layer. They are harder to peel the tape away from but the glue is unnoticeable, gives the right amount of stick, permits repositioning, won't move even when folded, and doesn't do any permanent damage to the leather especially when you remove the patch.

You don't need real expensive carpet tape. I have about 5 different kinds on my shelf right now and the rolls I am using both come from Harbor Freight. I use 2" and 1" rolls. I tape all main boundaries of the patch as well as the center. I usually tape so most of the tape is about 1/2"-3/4" from the edge. I don't want to sew through the tape as it sticks to the needle and can cause problems and thread fraying and breakage.

There are different ways to sew the patches. I prefer to sew exactly on the inside seam of the embroidered edge of the patch. That makes the stitch pretty much disappear. It also hides the holes well if you have to remove the patch and resew it on a different vest or jacket.

I use special topstitching feet that have little spring loaded walls that allow me to run them along the outside edge of the patch and get that precise distance from the outer edge all around and usually right on the inside seam. The topstitch feet don't always help and sometimes you just have to watch what you're doing and follow your line with the eyeball.

I don't like to sew in the embroidered edge itself. It is very noticeable and looks tacky when the holes are visible on a resew job. Also I take digital PIX of the patch placement and have the customer set the patches for the PIX unless they give me unlimited right to place them where I see fit. That saves a LOT of misunderstandings!

I took some PIX of a large job involving a couple hundred dollars worth of patches. I had to key up the brightness to show some of the stitching. But you can see where I like to sew and how it turns out in an actual job. Note how sewing on the inner edge with black thread is invisible on the ASMI patch despite the white background. Saves making a thread color change too!! All these patches were sewn with the Juki 1541S.

The customer paid and loved the work. That is what counts.

[Suze]

somebody said something about using tape to hold down the patches and that it worked well except when you wanted to move the patches later

wouldn't it be easy to sew around MOST of the patch and then reach in with a pair of "handy dandy hemostats" and pull out the tape?

then sew the rest of the patch down?

just asking

[Bree]

somebody said something about using tape to hold down the patches and that it worked well except when you wanted to move the patches later

wouldn't it be easy to sew around MOST of the patch and then reach in with a pair of "handy dandy hemostats" and pull out the tape?

then sew the rest of the patch down?

just asking

I want the hold down power all the way until the end of the job. So I am very reluctant to yank out the tape which quite frankly isn't all that easy to do in practice.

The tape is usually not a problem to relocation unless it is several years old. It can get very gooey and sticky as it ages and is exposed to UV. It can take the top grain with it as you try to remove it. That's when a little Goo Gone or citrus type solvent works wonders... usually. Just to be sure, always test on an inconspicuous spot of the leather!!

The trick to this patch business is to get it done quickly and with the least amount of effort. If you are doing production sewing as you would at a rally or a dealer event, you have a line of people waiting for you to sew their patches. It's genuine Greek Restaurant sewing... Eat, Pay, Get Out! Here it is useful to have a helper tape and position the patches while you sew and maybe arbitrate a price issue over a difficult patch with a lot of curves or high difficulty areas. Other methods are too messy or time consuming... or fail to maintain the positioning until you can reliably tack it in.

My $.02.

[Suze]

Oh - it all becomes clear now

I think I will keep my trap shut and learn things

[UKRay]

Thsat was something of a masterclass on patch stitching, Bree. I'm most grateful for all the advice.

My slip into the vernacular, so astutely picked up by Ian, was entirely down to spending far too much time on a certain Leatherworker's forum... that is my excuse and i'm sticking to it (probably with double sided tape).

Confidence, Luke? I wish!

They say a person with their mouth open learns less than a person with their mouth closed... I'm going to shut up now and see what happens.

[rdb]

You'll be fine, just take your time.

I've been sewing a few on with my Adler 30-1. Makes doing sleeve patches a breeze, and you can go as slow as you like. A patcher is a must if you get into this stuff. You can repair sleeve zippers, go through small holes in the lining to get somewhere, etc. Try and find an old Adler, or Singer. It will put you in better position to take on more jobs.

Full backs, and rockers, though need a flatbed, or you'll be there all day.

[Janice]

Thank you everyone for all the tips.

One that really struck me was:

" I don't want to sew through the tape as it sticks to the needle and can cause problems and thread fraying and breakage. "

Excellent point Bree, thanks!

[MedusaOblongata]

With almost no experience sewing anything more complicated than a button, I wanted about 15 patches sewn onto my Jacket, and couldn't find anyone local who could both sew and speak English, so I found a way to do it myself. I used the flimsiest knockoff dollar store wannabe Scotch type double stick tape to first position the patches. Then, when I had each one where I wanted it, I traced it with a Fisher Space Pen, then removed the patch and the tape. I wiped down the spot on the Jacket with acetone. Then painted that spot on the Jacket, and the back of the patch, with contact cement. I didn't bother waiting for it to dry, since it sticks the same anyway. I did, however, apply at least 25 psi, with a rolling pin, to each patch (that's what the directions on the bottle of contact cement said to do). I let it dry long enough to smoke a cigarette. Then I sewed the patch on, using 16-20# Kevlar thread. The location of the stitch had to vary based on the type of patch, since some don't have borders, and some had been cut smaller prior to application. The leather (especially with the patches) was too thick to really push a needle through, even with a thimble, so I used needle nose pliers to pull the needle through on each side of each stitch. Took frigging forever (the whole Jacket took months). Then I removed the outline from the Fisher Space Pen by licking my finger, and rubbing the ink mark until it vanished. I did sew through the lining, but what that did to the lining is nothing at all compared to what the spikes did to the lining! That was a few years ago, the Jacket has seen some rough days, and the thread has been worn away in a couple of spots, but those patches are on there good, and I don't think they'll ever come off. Oh, and the broken bone you see on the back has subsequently been replaced.

(I must have done a good job, because this Jacket has gotten me into clubs for free, has gotten me laid, and has helped me sell other leather related items)

Edited May 19, 2009 by MedusaOblongata

[Adrian Miller]

Sorry, i just saw your post now.

You can stick patches on leather with an IRON ON BACKING.

Theres a way it doesnt effect the leather infact make it smoother than before even after using HOT IRON.

For Further queries or tip

Contact us:

www.cheapcustompatches.com

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

On the same lines with patches, what do you charge to sew patches on? I realize that the price will vary depending on size, and shape, but say in general how much do you charge for this service?

[albane]

I've sewn thousands of patches.

My shop was located in Glendale Calf. directly across the street from Glendale Harley Davidson host of the Love Ride.

I have a couple rules when it comes to sewing patches on leather clothes.

First and foremost

NO PATCHES ON ARMOR GARMENTS

. If the client intends for the garment to protect him from road rash they must release me from liability. I inform them that additional stitching will weaken the structural integrity of the garment. under dynamic stress it can fail along the stitch line exposing the client to the abrasive nature of the road.

This is why most biker folk wear a vest over there Jackets.

Second

If The garment is A high end or there is a possibility that it may need service in the future. i will opt to open the lining and stitch the patch in place. it only takes a few seconds so just do it.

I have a couple post machines for this specific task. my latest is a brand new Cobra 5110 it has a roller foot on top and feed dog below. in most situations this is the most useful system.

One would think using a flatbed machine or a 29K is easier, but i beg to differ. with a post machine i only need to open a 2.5" hole just enough for the post to fit through. Try that with a flat bed!

on a jacket i will open the lining along the inner elbow and a vest along the side seam. (The 29k just does not stitch clean enough for my standards )

working this way presents it challenges but with a couple simple tricks these are easily overcome.

i trace all the way around the patch with a pencil this way if the patch moves i can correct the situation without taking the garment out of the machine.

Use super 77 to baste the patch in place. after a week the adhesive will fail and if you have to remove the patch in the future there will be no trace of the adhesive. NOTE: Smooth grain leathers only.

Call Cobra Steve At The Leather Machine Co for the 5110 at a big bike rally it will pay for itself in one day.

Best of luck.

Al Bane

[idahopatchlady]

Thanks all for the forum. I have sold patches at Rally's in Idaho for years but I am just setting up a shop and a machine. Love this site for information.

Any other great tips or anyone that would like to mentor a newbie in Idaho? Thanks.