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Posted (edited)

With almost no experience sewing anything more complicated than a button, I wanted about 15 patches sewn onto my Jacket, and couldn't find anyone local who could both sew and speak English, so I found a way to do it myself. I used the flimsiest knockoff dollar store wannabe Scotch type double stick tape to first position the patches. Then, when I had each one where I wanted it, I traced it with a Fisher Space Pen, then removed the patch and the tape. I wiped down the spot on the Jacket with acetone. Then painted that spot on the Jacket, and the back of the patch, with contact cement. I didn't bother waiting for it to dry, since it sticks the same anyway. I did, however, apply at least 25 psi, with a rolling pin, to each patch (that's what the directions on the bottle of contact cement said to do). I let it dry long enough to smoke a cigarette. Then I sewed the patch on, using 16-20# Kevlar thread. The location of the stitch had to vary based on the type of patch, since some don't have borders, and some had been cut smaller prior to application. The leather (especially with the patches) was too thick to really push a needle through, even with a thimble, so I used needle nose pliers to pull the needle through on each side of each stitch. Took frigging forever (the whole Jacket took months). Then I removed the outline from the Fisher Space Pen by licking my finger, and rubbing the ink mark until it vanished. I did sew through the lining, but what that did to the lining is nothing at all compared to what the spikes did to the lining! That was a few years ago, the Jacket has seen some rough days, and the thread has been worn away in a couple of spots, but those patches are on there good, and I don't think they'll ever come off. Oh, and the broken bone you see on the back has subsequently been replaced.

(I must have done a good job, because this Jacket has gotten me into clubs for free, has gotten me laid, and has helped me sell other leather related items)

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Edited by MedusaOblongata
  • 1 year later...
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  • Members
Posted

Sorry, i just saw your post now.

You can stick patches on leather with an IRON ON BACKING.

Theres a way it doesnt effect the leather infact make it smoother than before even after using HOT IRON.

For Further queries or tip

Contact us:

www.cheapcustompatches.com

  • Members
Posted

On the same lines with patches, what do you charge to sew patches on? I realize that the price will vary depending on size, and shape, but say in general how much do you charge for this service?

You laugh at me because I am different. I laugh at you because you are all the same.

  • Members
Posted

I've sewn thousands of patches.

My shop was located in Glendale Calf. directly across the street from Glendale Harley Davidson host of the Love Ride.

I have a couple rules when it comes to sewing patches on leather clothes.

First and foremost

NO PATCHES ON ARMOR GARMENTS

. If the client intends for the garment to protect him from road rash they must release me from liability. I inform them that additional stitching will weaken the structural integrity of the garment. under dynamic stress it can fail along the stitch line exposing the client to the abrasive nature of the road.

This is why most biker folk wear a vest over there Jackets.

Second

If The garment is A high end or there is a possibility that it may need service in the future. i will opt to open the lining and stitch the patch in place. it only takes a few seconds so just do it.

I have a couple post machines for this specific task. my latest is a brand new Cobra 5110 it has a roller foot on top and feed dog below. in most situations this is the most useful system.

One would think using a flatbed machine or a 29K is easier, but i beg to differ. with a post machine i only need to open a 2.5" hole just enough for the post to fit through. Try that with a flat bed!

on a jacket i will open the lining along the inner elbow and a vest along the side seam. (The 29k just does not stitch clean enough for my standards )

working this way presents it challenges but with a couple simple tricks these are easily overcome.

i trace all the way around the patch with a pencil this way if the patch moves i can correct the situation without taking the garment out of the machine.

Use super 77 to baste the patch in place. after a week the adhesive will fail and if you have to remove the patch in the future there will be no trace of the adhesive. NOTE: Smooth grain leathers only.

Call Cobra Steve At The Leather Machine Co for the 5110 at a big bike rally it will pay for itself in one day.

Best of luck.

Al Bane

Al Bane<br />Al Bane For Leather<br />818 209 7945 <br />www.myspace.com/albaneforleather<br />www.facebook.com/albaneforleather<br />www.albaneforleather.etsy.com

  • 3 years later...
  • Members
Posted

Thanks all for the forum. I have sold patches at Rally's in Idaho for years but I am just setting up a shop and a machine. Love this site for information.

Any other great tips or anyone that would like to mentor a newbie in Idaho? Thanks.

  • Members
Posted

Welcome to the LW Forum, idahopatchlady.

Are you setting up a “mobile shop” to follow the rally events? Or a brick and mortar shop at one site? What machines are you planning to use for sewing on patches?

My wife and I sew embroidered patches on garments at our B&M shop in SW Oklahoma, but have never taken our service mobile. We use a Consew 225 and a Singer 29K70 for the bulk of our patch sewing.

We’ve had patches sewn onto our motorcycle vests at a variety of rally sites, but only as customers. The machines that they each used were as varied as the rally sites themselves.

CD in Oklahoma

"I sew, I sew, so it's off to work I go....."
My sewing machines:

Adler 205-370 (Hand Crank), Adler 205-64 (Hand Crank), Consew 226 (Clutch/Speed Reducer), Singer 111G156 (Hand Crank or Clutch), Singer 111W153 (Clutch), Singer 20U33 (Clutch), Singer 78-3 Needlefeed (Treadle), Singer 20U (Treadle), Singer 29K70 (x2) (Both Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 96-40 w/Darning Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 (Hand Crank), Singer 16-41 (Treadle), Singer 66-1 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 201K4 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 216G Zigzag (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 319W (Treadle)

  • Members
Posted

I am setting up a stone and mortar shop. I worked with a local sewing repair to get a good machine with in house service. People are already asking about repairs and I am new at that part. I have gotten a lot of confidence about my ability just from reading through these posts. The machine I bought is a TYPICAL, 18 inch, walking foot, self oil. I will tell you more after I get the shop open. Machine arrives on the 15th, I open May 1st.

  • 2 years later...
  • Members
Posted

I know this an older post, but I would really appreciate any advice people can give me about sewing patches over pockets. I'm using a Consew 226R and I'm trying to avoid sewing a patch through an inner and outer pocket that's layered over each other. Please help lol

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