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Posted
colt,

Sounds great! Can you show what that looks like? Can you showa pattern you made in this way? I'd like to see an example so I can understand what 'works'. Thanks - Dirty Ernie

I use Photoshop to make my patterns. My workflow involves scanning the gun, then designing the holster around it. It's all kept to scale, so when it's printed, it's the right size. Also, if the pattern gets boogered up down the line, I can just reprint it.

In Photoshop (or other comparable applications), the pen tool is what you use to get perfect curvy lines. Also, this is how you can make sure that your slots line up.

Dirty Ernie

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Posted

Instead of scanning the gun, I have found that pictures of most guns can be found on the internet, usually on the manufacturers page. I check for the guns overall length, then download a copy of the photo, and then scale the photo in Photoshop, or other photo editing program, so it prints actual size. I usually just take the photo and crop it even with the front of the barrel, and the back of the gun, then re-size the photo to match the overall length dimension. I print this out, then use that as a basis to lay out my holster. I only have Photoshop Elements 2, so I don't have the ability to draw inside the program, so I still do the rest by hand. It does give me a good profile of the gun without having to have the gun in my hands and using my scanner. I have tried it both ways, and I think I get a better photo to work with this way. Hope this helps. John

Ruger_sr9_348LA.jpg

Ruger_sr9_348LA.jpg

post-6341-1242440145_thumb.jpg

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Posted

RC,

My file is too big to upload, so email me at brazosjack@valornet.com.

I got something for you.

Jim

Never forget where you are, so you will always remember where you've been.

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Posted

I just placed a bit of a guideline under the following:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16728

Johan

JOhan

-------------------------------------------

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Posted
I just placed a bit of a guideline under the following:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16728

Johan

Johan:

I don't think I have ever met anyone having such language skills!

Lobo Gun Leather

serious equipment for serious business, since 1972

www.lobogunleather.com

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Posted

I put dots on paper where the curve should go then draw an arc back and forth, erase the edges, draw it again, erase the edges again and again until it looks good. Trick is a big eraser and tough paper.

Sometimes I use a quarter to get a round corner.

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Posted

Luke and Badger have given you good advice. I use both of their ideas and I have also learned a lot from John Bianchi's DVDs on making Western holsters.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I also use the French curve a lot as suggested by Badger and find it quite easy and fast to use. It works better than a piece of leather because it holds the curve for you. I find the method that okie44 uses intriguing though and may give that a shot.

Richard

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Posted (edited)

You can also get a flexible ruler at most art supply or sewing stores. They are nice because they will hold pretty much any curve for drawing and will measure around radii when trying to determine lace length, hole layout, etc. They are plastic with a stiff core so they will hold a curve. Makes life nice if you need to get the curve from an object and then walk across the shop to put it on paper.

16flexruler.JPG.w300h120.jpg

Edited by Spinner

Chris

Three Mutts Customs Leather - http://www.threemuttscustoms.com

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