For all you Belt makers - Gluing edges

[ABC3]

I've started having problems burnishing my belts. I recently started using 2 straps of 7/8 oz leather, gluing & sewing 3/16" in from the edge. I can't seem to get the two layers to marry together as I burnish (I've tried many concoctions). I sand with 120 grit & then with 220. And still the end result is very poor quality.

Could it be my gluing? I have not run the glue all the way to the edges of the belt - stopping somewhere arount 3/16 to a 1/4" from the edges. Then roll with a paper hangers hand roller to force the air out & to smooth out. When I sew could that force the edges to seperate to a degree? Should I glue all the way to the edges & then sand off? Any ideas to correct this problem.

[dbusarow]

Tom,

When making holsters I started out gluing all the way to the edge. Then I decided it might be easier to sew if I didn't have to go through the glue as well as the leather. So I tried leaving the edge unglued like yours and my edge burnishing, which had been decent, went to heck. I'm back to gluing all the way to the edge.

I still need to improve my edges but they do come out better when glued together.

Dan

[Rayban]

Glue all the way to the edge...if glue seeps out over the edge, just sand it off before burnishing....

[ABC3]

That's what I needed to know guys. To the edges it is. But it does sound like it would be difficult to keep your glue bench dry & clean. Oh well.....

[hidepounder]

I've started having problems burnishing my belts. I recently started using 2 straps of 7/8 oz leather, gluing & sewing 3/16" in from the edge. I can't seem to get the two layers to marry together as I burnish (I've tried many concoctions). I sand with 120 grit & then with 220. And still the end result is very poor quality.

Could it be my gluing? I have not run the glue all the way to the edges of the belt - stopping somewhere arount 3/16 to a 1/4" from the edges. Then roll with a paper hangers hand roller to force the air out & to smooth out. When I sew could that force the edges to seperate to a degree? Should I glue all the way to the edges & then sand off? Any ideas to correct this problem.

Tom,

Glue all the way to the edge, do not use excessive glue, and ounce you've married the two together, use a leather hammer all the way around the edges to insure a close tight bond. I didn't use to do this until I started using Masters Cement...who tell you to use a hammer. Now I do it when using Barge also. Hope this helps,

Bob

[badger]

Yep, glue both pieces all the way to the edge, let it touch-dry, join carefully and then hammer down.

I will sometimes hammer a glued seam using a scrap of leather, grain side down, between the work and the hammer to prevent marring.

Badger

[Bree]

Glue all the way to the edge...if glue seeps out over the edge, just sand it off before burnishing....

+1

I go all the way to the edge. I use contact cement so I get no seepage when the blanks are pressed together since my glue is dry. I am careful to paint the glue to the edge but not over it. Nevertheless, I sand it lightly anyways because even with a registration jig that I use to keep the alignment right when I am bonding the blanks there is always a little inconsistency. The sanding levels everything out in preparation for edging.

[ABC3]

Thanks everyone for your input. It's forums like this that make us all better at our hobby/trade. I for one, appreciate it.

[Shorts]

A good way to keep the glue craziness from getting uncontrollable is to make the back layer strap slightly wider than the top. Example, top 1.5" which is the end width and bottom 1.75". This allows for the belt straps to be uneven yet fully glued to the edge. Once you're glued and stitched, then slice the excess off (these scraps make excellent lace ties for random things around the shop). From there even & round your edges.

I still miss a few spots here and there but you stand a better shot at an even burnish.

[tangfenghongying]

A good way to keep the glue craziness from getting uncontrollable is to make the back layer strap slightly wider than the top. Example, top 1.5" which is the end width and bottom 1.75". This allows for the belt straps to be uneven yet fully glued to the edge. Once you're glued and stitched, then slice the excess off (these scraps make excellent lace ties for random things around the shop). From there even & round your edges.

I still miss a few spots here and there but you stand a better shot at an even burnish.

Side of your belt to deal with a very smooth, I would like to ask what things handled?

[UKRay]

+1

I go all the way to the edge. I use contact cement so I get no seepage when the blanks are pressed together since my glue is dry. I am careful to paint the glue to the edge but not over it. Nevertheless, I sand it lightly anyways because even with a registration jig that I use to keep the alignment right when I am bonding the blanks there is always a little inconsistency. The sanding levels everything out in preparation for edging.

That jig sounds interesting, Bree. Any chance of a picture? I frequently mess up when it comes to gluing with contact cement and end up with one bit out of alignment. I NEED a jig!

Ray

[SOSHorses]

I use a big piece of glass on my glue and dye bench so that it is easy to clean. I just scrape it off every so often and have a new surface to start with.

[hidepounder]

A good way to keep the glue craziness from getting uncontrollable is to make the back layer strap slightly wider than the top. Example, top 1.5" which is the end width and bottom 1.75". This allows for the belt straps to be uneven yet fully glued to the edge. Once you're glued and stitched, then slice the excess off (these scraps make excellent lace ties for random things around the shop). From there even & round your edges.

I still miss a few spots here and there but you stand a better shot at an even burnish.

You're right on the mark, Monica, that's exactly what I do too. Not only on belts, but everything that gets lined! Great edges by the way.

Bob

I use a big piece of glass on my glue and dye bench so that it is easy to clean. I just scrape it off every so often and have a new surface to start with.

That is an excellent idea! Don't know why I never thought of that! I use glass to skive on...think I'll add a piece to glue on, too. Great tip, thanks! I love this place!

Bob

[Bree]

That jig sounds interesting, Bree. Any chance of a picture? I frequently mess up when it comes to gluing with contact cement and end up with one bit out of alignment. I NEED a jig!

Ray

Your wish is my command!

It is incredibly simple as you can see...

I use my drill press fence and a Calo clamp guide. The blank is fit between the two and they are clamped down forming a channel of the exact width of the blank. I apply the contact cement and let it dry. Then I carefully start one end. I use canned air to make sure everything is super clean.

The lower blank hangs off the edge and the upper blank is rolled backwards so the cemented portions can't make contact until I want them to. I roll the top blank onto the bottom and periodically move the bottom blank back until the belt is completely glued up.

Then I take my tamper and some lintless cloth and press down the blanks so there are no voids. The bottom PIX show a belt that I had already dyed the top blank black for a two tone.

The tamper is just that... an expresso tamper... that is the perfect size and shape for the job of tamping down 1 1/2" belts to make sure the glue all bonds yet doesn't mar por scratch the belt surface.

[UKRay]

Some things are so obvious... it worries me that I don't seem able to think of them!

Thanks Bree, most helpful.

Ray

[hidepounder]

Your wish is my command!

It is incredibly simple as you can see...

I use my drill press fence and a Calo clamp guide. The blank is fit between the two and they are clamped down forming a channel of the exact width of the blank. I apply the contact cement and let it dry. Then I carefully start one end. I use canned air to make sure everything is super clean.

The lower blank hangs off the edge and the upper blank is rolled backwards so the cemented portions can't make contact until I want them to. I roll the top blank onto the bottom and periodically move the bottom blank back until the belt is completely glued up.

Then I take my tamper and some lintless cloth and press down the blanks so there are no voids. The bottom PIX show a belt that I had already dyed the top blank black for a two tone.

The tamper is just that... an expresso tamper... that is the perfect size and shape for the job of tamping down 1 1/2" belts to make sure the glue all bonds yet doesn't mar por scratch the belt surface.

Bree,

I've never seen that Tamper before...looks handy. Might be good for tapoffs too!

Bob

[Bree]

Bree,

I've never seen that Tamper before...looks handy. Might be good for tapoffs too!

Bob

Bob... there are a ton of tampers out there. Some of them are pretty cool and expensive. But I found this one at Premier Gourmet Foods in Buffalo. It was packaged with some European company's label. I can't find that anymore but I did find it under the Copco label in Canada. Forget their description in the ad... it is all metal... aluminum I think. Some copywriter messed up.

http://www.kitchenniche.ca/espresso-tamper...ml?currency=USD

It is inexpensive and it has three features that make it perfect for my belt making activities.

1) Size of 1 7/8" in diameter so it fully covers a 1 1/2" belt

2) Smooth, flat bottom

3) Rounded edges so it can't catch and mar the leather creating a line.

It is strong, simple, and for $10, I thought it was the best deal in town and snapped it up. I have never been sorry. I use it for a lot of smoothing operations. I like the way it is designed. It may not be the best espresso tamper but it is a killer smoothing and glue tool.

Edited June 23, 2009 by Bree