Members DreadPirateRedbeard Posted June 6, 2009 Members Report Posted June 6, 2009 (edited) So I got some antiquing gel in a lot of supplies a few days ago and I want to try it on a project. However, I don't know how to apply it. Do I apply it on wet leather, dry, slightly damp? And do I use anything special for it such as a sponge, paper towel, cloth? And last but not least, the leather I'm using for the vambraces is already a brown kinda colour as is the antiquing gel. Will that cancel out the effect I'm after? I've never seen leather like this anyway. It's a medium brown, kinda semi gloss finish on it, but the back is weird, it appears to have an almost cloth backing on it. I'm quite sure it's leather and not naugahyde. It smells like leather! It's thick like some of the heavier duty tooling leather I've used in the past, but not stiff like the veg tan. It's pretty soft but semi rigid. It also has these veins/streaks of way lighter brown in it and it looks like it's from being rolled up and handled. I also want to make these hardened (cuirbolli) leather, will it work for the hardening processes? I have a picture of a piece of it. It's not a great picture but it should give you an idea of what it is. I sure hope that I'm making sense, it's late and I'm tired. I just hope someone can make sense of what I'm saying and help me in identifying the leather. Thanks once again everyone, you've been a HUGE help in the short time I've been on this forum. I've learned way more than I could have imagined because of everyone's generosity and kindness. OK no more rambling, I'm off to bed. Goodnight kids! Dirkin Edited June 6, 2009 by DreadPirateRedbeard Quote Don't be scared live to win, although they're always gonna tell you it's a sin. Grab ahold don't let go, don't let them rob you of the only way you know - Motorhead The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering. - St Augustine
Members Leerwerker Posted June 6, 2009 Members Report Posted June 6, 2009 So I got some antiquing gel in a lot of supplies a few days ago and I want to try it on a project. However, I don't know how to apply it. I pour it on a dauber and smear it on .... Do I apply it on wet leather, dry, slightly damp? And do I use anything special for it such as a sponge, paper towel, cloth? Don't find too much of a difference between damp and dry leather - as long as you put it on liberally. And last but not least, the leather I'm using for the vambraces is already a brown kinda colour as is the antiquing gel. Will that cancel out the effect I'm after? No, it will still hightlight the tooling perfectly! Quote JOhan ------------------------------------------- ****Afrikaans: Leerwerker ***** ****Zulu: lesikhumba isisebenzi Latvian: ādas darba ņēmējs *****Russian: кожа работника ****English: Leatherworker ****Dutch: Lederbewerker ****Flemish: Leerbewerker ****Hebrew: עור פועל ****German: Leder Handwerker ****Hungarian: Bőrdíszműves ****Turkish: deri işçisi ****French: Artisan du Cuir ****Spanish: Artesano de Cuero ****Norwegian: Skinn kunstners ****Swedish: Läderhantverkare ****Greek: δερμάτινα εργαζόμενος Sotho: mosebeletsi oa letlalo
Members Tina Posted June 6, 2009 Members Report Posted June 6, 2009 So I got some antiquing gel in a lot of supplies a few days ago and I want to try it on a project. However, I don't know how to apply it. Do I apply it on wet leather, dry, slightly damp? And do I use anything special for it such as a sponge, paper towel, cloth? And last but not least, the leather I'm using for the vambraces is already a brown kinda colour as is the antiquing gel. Will that cancel out the effect I'm after? I've never seen leather like this anyway. It's a medium brown, kinda semi gloss finish on it, but the back is weird, it appears to have an almost cloth backing on it. I'm quite sure it's leather and not naugahyde. It smells like leather! It's thick like some of the heavier duty tooling leather I've used in the past, but not stiff like the veg tan. It's pretty soft but semi rigid. It also has these veins/streaks of way lighter brown in it and it looks like it's from being rolled up and handled. I also want to make these hardened (cuirbolli) leather, will it work for the hardening processes? I have a picture of a piece of it. It's not a great picture but it should give you an idea of what it is. I sure hope that I'm making sense, it's late and I'm tired. I just hope someone can make sense of what I'm saying and help me in identifying the leather. Thanks once again everyone, you've been a HUGE help in the short time I've been on this forum. I've learned way more than I could have imagined because of everyone's generosity and kindness. OK no more rambling, I'm off to bed. Goodnight kids! Dirkin I paste a link here that I have found very useful...I do use some other products than the link suggests but the overall "how to" works well...Good Luck:-) http://www.clintfay.com/monthly_tips/monthlytipMar07.html Quote "He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands, and his head is a craftsman. He who works with his hands, and his head, and his heart, is An Artist" http://vildkorpens-laderlya.deviantart.com http://tupali.deviantart.com/
Members DreadPirateRedbeard Posted June 6, 2009 Author Members Report Posted June 6, 2009 I pour it on a dauber and smear it on .... Well I guess I should have opened it and checked it out. It's not gel, it's a paste. So I'd just use maybe a cotton rag to apply it? Quote Don't be scared live to win, although they're always gonna tell you it's a sin. Grab ahold don't let go, don't let them rob you of the only way you know - Motorhead The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering. - St Augustine
hidepounder Posted June 6, 2009 Report Posted June 6, 2009 Dirkin, There are a couple of ways to use the antique paste. The effect you are trying to achieve dictates the method you use. If you want to substantially darken your leather, then you can apply the paste directly to the leather....rub it in....and then remove all residue. The application needs to be even and should be applied all at once. The longer it's on, the darker it will get and if you apply it in stages, the overlap will show. It should be applied to dry leather and I recommend cleaning the leather with oxalic acid before applying the antique. Antique is notorious for going on uneven, leaving light and dark "blotchy" areas, due to texture changes in the leather and/or different residues left on the surface due to handling. Probably the more accepted way of applying antique paste is to seal the leather first with Neat-Lac or something similar (this is commonly called applying a "resist"). Once it's dry, apply the antique and remove all the residue. This is the method used when a piece is tooled and the objective is to enhance the appearance of depth and to create highlights. The leather will not be colored as deeply (due to the resist), but the depressions will hold more color. I prefer to apply the paste with a piece of trimmed woolskin scrap. Then I remove all residue with another piece of trimmed woolskin and follow that up by polishing...again with trimmed woolskin. Once it's dry, the piece then needs to sealed with any of a variety of sealers....all of which may pick up the color of the antique, so you need to be carefull when applying the sealer. I use Neat-Lac (which is no longer available...but the method works for most all sealers) and I apply it with...you guessed it....a trimmed piece of woolskin scrap. Light coats applied quickly are best. If you use a spray be careful not to apply too much! It's easy to get too much on with an aerosol. Hope this helps! Bob Quote
Members RunningRoan Posted June 6, 2009 Members Report Posted June 6, 2009 Probably the more accepted way of applying antique paste is to seal the leather first with Neat-Lac or something similar (this is commonly called applying a "resist"). Once it's dry, apply the antique and remove all the residue. This is the method used when a piece is tooled and the objective is to enhance the appearance of depth and to create highlights. The leather will not be colored as deeply (due to the resist), but the depressions will hold more color. I've been experimenting with EcoFlo stain to enhance my tooling. It's doing the job, however, I'd like more contrast! I'm using light leather and I want to color the depressions only, not darken the leather. So, is the EcoFlo stain the correct thing to use? I have some Leather Sheen and I also have a bottle of EcoFlo Satin Sheen...would one of these work for a resist? Apply the resist, then tool/stamp, then apply the stain? Quote
hidepounder Posted June 6, 2009 Report Posted June 6, 2009 So, is the EcoFlo stain the correct thing to use? I have some Leather Sheen and I also have a bottle of EcoFlo Satin Sheen...would one of these work for a resist? Apply the resist, then tool/stamp, then apply the stain? I'm sorry, I really know nothing about the Ecoflo products because I don't use them. Someone who does needs to jump in here....but I did want to tell you to tool FIRST. Then do any dyeing, then apply the resist, then antique. Tandy makes some Highliters that I believe are intended to darken the cuts and depressions without coloring the body of the leather....AS MUCH. However, I don't use those either, so I can't really comment on them. Bob Quote
Members Spinner Posted June 9, 2009 Members Report Posted June 9, 2009 For those of us that can't get Neat-Lac and the other sealers, etc. (CA has crazy tough VOC laws) what other products are recommended? Quote Chris Three Mutts Customs Leather - http://www.threemuttscustoms.com
electrathon Posted June 9, 2009 Report Posted June 9, 2009 For those of us that can't get Neat-Lac and the other sealers, etc. (CA has crazy tough VOC laws) what other products are recommended? RTC from Bee Natural. When you use it just make sure you put it on generously. Quote
Members Spinner Posted June 9, 2009 Members Report Posted June 9, 2009 RTC from Bee Natural. When you use it just make sure you put it on generously. Thanks! Quote Chris Three Mutts Customs Leather - http://www.threemuttscustoms.com
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