Tooling, how can I get this look???

[CitizenKate]

Eric, here is a photo demo I did a while back on how to do block dying. Duane's piece appears to have been done with a similar method.

Basically, you wash the piece with a lighter color of dye, and get it to penetrate thoroughly, then go over the raised areas with a darker color using a cloth loaded with dye that is wrapped around square block.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ic=2712&hl=

You can also just use a cloth folded flat, and wiped flatly over the raised areas to create a different effect.

Kate

[ericluther]

  CitizenKate said:

Eric, here is a photo demo I did a while back on how to do block dying. Duane's piece appears to have been done with a similar method.

Basically, you wash the piece with a lighter color of dye, and get it to penetrate thoroughly, then go over the raised areas with a darker color using a cloth loaded with dye that is wrapped around square block.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ic=2712&hl=

You can also just use a cloth folded flat, and wiped flatly over the raised areas to create a different effect.

Kate

Thank you Kate!!

[MADMAX22]

Thanks for the info Kate.

[TomSwede]

Like Hilly said it's probably alot of work with the modelling spoon on the edges to round them off. What strikes me is how smooth he gets it wich makes me think that swivelknife control is key. Unintentional under/over cutting often makes it hard to round off edges.

The smoothness in the area where the backgrounding of the eyes (holes) mets the raised portion makes me wonder if this was carved at all?? Just using a beveler with out carving is very difficult but produces very nice and smooth transitions to the beveled area.

This piece is truely awesome, I don't dare to look at the rest on his site, lol!!

Your first tooling experience came out good, you're on your way to learn more and my first advice is what I said earlier about swivelknife control and under/overcutting. I haven't tooled much the last half year and that's where I feel I have lost some control.

Next advice is about lines and trying to get straight lines straight and curves/oval/circular lines to be just that and keeping the line. Once again..I use a carving practice wich is to alternate between a straight line and a S-shaped line to get the feel of following lines in my hands and to practice control over tilting the knife to avoid unwanted under/over cuts.

If not too big I always rotate my leatherpiece simultaneously as I carve and for me this is the best way to work with curves. A bigger leather that remains static means that I have to use more movement with the hand and I feel I loose much control that way.

Tom

[ericluther]

  TomSwede said:

Like Hilly said it's probably alot of work with the modelling spoon on the edges to round them off. What strikes me is how smooth he gets it wich makes me think that swivelknife control is key. Unintentional under/over cutting often makes it hard to round off edges.

The smoothness in the area where the backgrounding of the eyes (holes) mets the raised portion makes me wonder if this was carved at all?? Just using a beveler with out carving is very difficult but produces very nice and smooth transitions to the beveled area.

This piece is truely awesome, I don't dare to look at the rest on his site, lol!!

Your first tooling experience came out good, you're on your way to learn more and my first advice is what I said earlier about swivelknife control and under/overcutting. I haven't tooled much the last half year and that's where I feel I have lost some control.

Next advice is about lines and trying to get straight lines straight and curves/oval/circular lines to be just that and keeping the line. Once again..I use a carving practice wich is to alternate between a straight line and a S-shaped line to get the feel of following lines in my hands and to practice control over tilting the knife to avoid unwanted under/over cuts.

If not too big I always rotate my leatherpiece simultaneously as I carve and for me this is the best way to work with curves. A bigger leather that remains static means that I have to use more movement with the hand and I feel I loose much control that way.

Tom

Thank you Tom! bite the bullet and check out his site, one of my faves is the crest on the seat with the wood and crown, amazing!!

[DuaneBallard]

Hey Eric,

Thanks for the nice words about my work. I use a modeling spoon ALOT! That was dyed basically how they explained to you but I didn't use a block. Just a rag by hand. Thanks, Duane

[ericluther]

  DuaneBallard said:

Hey Eric,

Thanks for the nice words about my work. I use a modeling spoon ALOT! That was dyed basically how they explained to you but I didn't use a block. Just a rag by hand. Thanks, Duane

Daune, thanks for the response!! You've really given me something to strive for man, the way you incorporate your art into leather was something I had envisioned doing with my own artwork but hadn't actually seen till coming across your site, well done!

[jeeperaz]

I have essentially no interest in leather tooling but I freely admit this work is very nice.

Well done Duane!

[LILYC]

hi, i think i know how he makes it look like beaten metal. i helped do some work on some film armour costumes and they used a 'needle descaler' electric or compressed air fueled tool.

they look like the hopefully uploaded attatchment.

you plug it in , and after casing the leather and putting it on a hard floor (alot of pressure for a table), u kneel down and move the tool in circles, and u will see the pattern appearing!

obviously an expensive tool to buy off-hand, but im on sure large-scale projects it would save alot of time.

it gives a look achieved by 'planishing' in the metal-work industry

hopefully this is usefull (it's a bit of a secret)

Lily

[frontpost]

Harbor freight has them. You can buy the air chisel with an atatchment needle scaler $19.95.

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=scaler&Submit=Go

Just the scaler cost more.

Edited September 6, 2009 by frontpost