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Posted

These were some responses to questions posed to Peter...

....the first I heard of using lemon juice was from Bob Beard back in the 80's...I tried it (with a real lemon)...and, it worked well.

For those who wonder about this...

At times, black metal marks can appear on veg tan leather from a number of sources...tools, or fine loose metal particles that may be in the workspace. It is the citric acid in lemons that will make these marks magically go away.

I only use oxalic acid (it does the same job as a lemon will do),...a teaspoon dissolved in a pint of water is all that is needed. I have had the same (glass) bottle for over three years, and there is still plenty left.

Your leather must be completely dry before adding oxalic acid or lemon juice. It is best to (quickly) apply it 'very lightly' overall with a dampened (not wet) sponge...then concentrate more where there are darker marks. Allow this to dry, which won't take long, and then again quickly wipe the leather overall with a dampened sponge (not wet) of plain water.

The only time I use oxalic acid is when I see marks on leather.

I do not use tape on the back of my leather.

All of my work is mounted on 'illustration board'...this is available from art/craft stores...the most commonly available is 'crescent brand'. Make sure it is 'super-smooth, No.202'. Mounting leather on this board will prevent stretch which will come from using large face tools such as the shader and basketweave etc.

Apply a thick, but 'even' coat of rubber cement (not contact adhesive) to the board (use a credit card as a spreader...I have many of the plastic 'gift-cards' that seem to be everywhere)...allow to dry a little, then lay your 'dry' leather down (wet leather will not stick at this point)....rub hard with your hand for good adhesion.

Apply water with a 'loaded' sponge...apply in 'even' strokes in several directions to ensure 'even' coverage of moisture. Do this several times and you will find the water is not going into the leather as quickly as it did at first...this means it can take no more.

Lay the leather aside....allow it to lose its wet look, and when you think it is ready to carve....don't!.

Instead, cover it with a piece of plate glass (I use a large glass cutting board...from the kitchen...I think Bed/Bath&beyond carry these). Allow to sit covered overnight...this is proper 'casing' (just adding water to leather is 'not casing')....the evening out of moisture throughout the leather.

The reason I do not use a plastic bag is that the illustration board becomes damp. With glass, the air can come in from the sides...in saying that, you should always add extra moisture around the edges....leather will always dry from the edges inwards.

When working, and you need a break....cover your work with the glass....it will hold moisture for days if required. Again, always add moisture to edges only when having a break...this will hold the moisture in the center, which is where you want it.

When using illustration board, you will find you are able to get extra depth in your work....especially if you are using lighter-weights.

Peter

Marlon

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Posted

Very helpfull thank you Peter and rawhide

One question not totaly related but I am wondering Peter how much water is in the leather when you start tooling can you feel it is it dry to the sight what rule do you use thanks

Josh

Josh

Dusty Chaps Leather

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Posted
Very helpfull thank you Peter and rawhide

One question not totaly related but I am wondering Peter how much water is in the leather when you start tooling can you feel it is it dry to the sight what rule do you use thanks

Josh

Peter usually waits until the next day to carve on leather... He wets it, let's it return to original color (visually), then covers it with glass. The next day when you uncover it, it's ready to carve...

Marlon

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Posted (edited)

This is my method as well just was curios thanks Marlon

Josh

Edited by jbird

Josh

Dusty Chaps Leather

&

Seven O Saddle Shop

801-809-8456

Keep moving forward! On a horse.

Hebrews 4:12

My link

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Posted

Aha, okay...I´m going to try this. Thank´s for posting.

Does anyone of the german Users know what this "illustration board" is in german? Or were I can get it?

Posted

Very interesting,

Be sure to thank him for us Marlin. His tips are allways very welcome.

  • 2 months later...
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Posted

What advantage does the illustration board have over acrylic?

None from what I know...they both serve the same purpose, to prevent stretching.

Marlon

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Posted

Thanks for the info Marlon. Please let Peter know we thank him for his wisdom. Please also tell him his way of casing, mounting to Crescent board, and covering with glass, is exactly how my father, Gene Noland, always did his portraits. Getting a piece of glass the same size as my tooling block was the first thing I did when I started back into leather a few months ago. I've let projects sit for days sometimes with out much lost of moisture. One other thing I would like to add to what Peter has said, My dad could not always sit and tool a hole portrait at one time, cause of his day job, he would also take a towel larger then the area of the glass and soak it in water and ring it out so it was still moist but not heavy wet, then lay it over the glass and cover the sides. This would allow the water to evaporate from the towel first before the leather could lose moisture. Again, please thank Peter for us all. My best to you and Peter, Dennis.

Making Leather Projects.

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Posted

excellent advice and much wisdom, thank you very much for sharing the knowledge, i will give this a try sence what i have been doing i uhm what peter said not to do (gulp)

thanks again.

maddhatter

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