Finishing Edges

[BlackRivet]

Thanks for this! I see many ways I can improve my own methods.

[Pancho Elizalde]

Thanks for sharing, Bob!

[kennyCQJ]

Bob thank you for the tutorial!

One question, can i replace the paraffin with edge wax or anything else? Can't find a paraffin bar in singapore...

[Andrew Chee]

Another question. What is the purpose of resolene or neat lac at the end of the process? Will it keep the fuzz from coming back?

Andrew

[ranchmom77]

Thanks for your excellent tutorial Bob! I'm a newbie and working on my first project.. A bronc noseband. I used a piece of 5/6oz veg tanned leather and glued a piece of soft pigskin suede to the back to make it comfortable for the horse.

I glued them together, then when I started the edges the suede wouldn't burnish with the leather. I used gum trag and a wheel but the suede pulled away from the veg tan.. What can I do about this. I was going to sew it after the edges were done.

Thank you for your help!

[cmantz]

When I back my nosebands with pigskin I don't burnish the edges. I use DuraEdge by Fiebings on these. Also, sew before you do your edges. Edges are last.

[tboyce58]

Thanks! This is very useful information!

[5shot]

Really old thread, but great info. Bob is THE man! My edges have never been better after following the process laid out in the OP.

[VonTannin]

You mention using different wheels wrapped in either canvas or denim. How does one wrap something with canvas and keep the canvas on at high revolutions?

[hidepounder]

I just taped the cnavas onto my cocobolo wheel that came with my weaver machine. If you're using small dremel wheels I don't think you can do that. It takes a while to get the canvas to conform with the grooves on the wheel, but eventually it will stretch and fit the wheel nicely.

Hope this helps......

Bobby

[nrk]

I just taped the cnavas onto my cocobolo wheel that came with my weaver machine. If you're using small dremel wheels I don't think you can do that. It takes a while to get the canvas to conform with the grooves on the wheel, but eventually it will stretch and fit the wheel nicely.

Hope this helps......

Bobby

Hi Bob,

1.what is the RPM on the motor that have attached wheels for burnishing?

2. in case where two pieces are glued up flesh-to-flesh sides, what glue gives so even lookup that holds fibers 'forever' and the method of using (hand press, or maybe manually hammering down)

sincerely

[5shot]

You mention using different wheels wrapped in either canvas or denim. How does one wrap something with canvas and keep the canvas on at high revolutions?

I use a little contact cement to get one end to stick on the wheel and then just a bit at the other end of the strip to get it to stick to itself.

Edited January 22, 2014 by 5shot

[Durhamleatherman]

Hi Bob,

Just wanted to add my thanks for your generous help in improving my edge burnishing.

Don't get much chance to practice my interest in leather working with small kids and "real" work getting in the way but was able to try out your method recently.

Fantastic improvement over my old Tandy edge slicker and gum trag method. Project was only a little bookmark for my oldest son but the edges came out incredibly smooth.

That was just with hand rubbing with heavy canvass following method step by step.

Can't wait t try it on a belt.

Thank once again to you and all the skilled craftsmen out there who are prepared to share their knowledge.

Take care.

[hidepounder]

Thanks for the kind words! I'm glad you found the process helpful. It's gratifying to be able to pay it forward.

Best!

Bobby

[ToddB 68]

Hi Bobby !

Looking a your 8 step tutorial Finishing Edges, at steps #3 and #4 you are applying the two soaps and then at step #5 applying a spirit dye because, as you say, "l prefer spirit dyes as they are absorbed into the leather rather than bonding to the outside, like edge paint."

What evidence do you see that the spirit dye is soaking through the two soaps and into the leather ?

Do you see signs of the dye leeching out into the leather field adjacent to the edges ? Or are you seeing some other evidence, such as a change in the sheen of the edges that convinces you the dye is soaking through the soaps and being absorbed by the leather ?

I'm making a digging tool sheath out of 12oz. veg-tanned leather following the steps outlined in your tutorial Finishing Edges, except for a change of dye at step #5 (read on.). I have my parts cut out and first I plan to complete steps #1, #2, #3 and #4 applying the Fiebings glycerin and yellow paste saddle soaps, rubbing and burnishing, etc..

At step #5, I plan to apply black tea to the edges to add more tannin and then apply some well-aged vinegaroon on top of the tea, after which I'll neutralize the roon with a solution of baking soda/water and then rinse-off the baking soda with warm water. I assume the roon, being acid based, will penetrate through the two soaps and into the leather, same as the spirit dye, but I don't know what to look for as evidence, thus my questions above.

Then I'll do the finishing steps #6, #7 and #8. At step #8, I believe Neat-Lac is no longer available, so will have to choose an alternate product.

I've been searching the Internet for an alternate product, but shipping charges across the nation are so ridiculous ! For instance one company in Wyoming has an economical price of $4.50 on a 4oz. bottle of Quik Slik, but UPS standard shipping adds another $22.49, or you might as well say $27.00 total ! So, I'll see what I can find locally here in Ohio.

Since I'm just getting started in leatherwork with my digging tool sheath, I want to keep costs down and you wouldn't believe how much I've invested already !

Thanks Bob.......I look forward to your reply !

ToddB68

Edited February 3, 2014 by ToddB68

[hidepounder]

Hi ToddB68

It's easy to see that the dye is penetrating the leather. Proof comes with age as the edges get bumped and nicked and you can see that the dye is still there. Edge paint will imply peel of with use leaving the raw leather exposed. Oil based dyes wok just as well as spirit based dyes, however, they take longer to dry and I have a tendency to get unwanted transfers from my hands s I stick to the spirit dyes.

Neat Lac is still readily available from the original manufacturer under their own label which is Clear Lac. Most leather suppliers like Springfield Leather and Panhandle Leather carry it. Sheridan Leather Outfitters also carries it under their own label which is Wyo Sheen.

Hope this helps!

Bobby

[wlg190861]

Thanks for sharing you vast wisdom Bob

Dan

[3ntin]

Hi Bob..!

I would like to take advantage of your experience and knowledge asking you an advice...I am making a bag, with 3/4 oz cal leather, lined with cloth (don't know exactly which one...). I want to finish the edges, how can I achieve that? Is the procedure the same as with leather alone (as you described in your great tutorial) or not?

Thanks in advance,

Daniele

[pmreed]

I'm new to leatherwork and I am enjoying working with bison.

Does anyone have any recommendations for finishing bison leather edges? I'm presently working with 7/8 oz. leather.

It's very soft and pliable. I have been treating and burnishing, as one would with a heavier cowhide, but the leather is so soft, I'm not sure it's the best approach.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

[mrtreat32]

When leaving my edges natural in color how do I get them to keep their light natural color.

Im currently using "quick slick" and following most of the steps listed above but whenever I apply the quick slick or begin rubbing the edges with canvas or sanding they start to look a bit dirty and darken. I usually end up painting them since the color isn't too pleasing if I let them be. Is it possible its the canvas Im using?

Also how do people get a colored stripe in the finished edge? I tried to find a google image but can't at the moment.

Are they dyeing/painting one edge before the piece is assembled to just that layer has a different color.

thanks

[hidepounder]

I haven't seen the striped effect, but I would image it involves dying some layers and not others. As far as the natural color goes, I think if you use saddlesoap, you'll get less color in the burnish. Hope this helps!

Bobby

[KGV]

Bob, I have questions when it comes to gluing the edges before stitching/finishing. When working with wallets and small leather goods what is the process for application of the glue? Could you tell me your process? Thanks!

[mistergeppetto]

Hi Bob

Thanks for the great advice, I've been trying different methods with varying results, but I'm looking forward to following your process, as a professional finished edge is important, and your right, it makes a great piece stand out.

Best wishes from England

[tboyce]

This is exactly what I've been looking for lately. Your ability to communicate your process in easily understood steps is a gift to you and to those of us who learn from you.

Thank you so much

[Jbatman]

When leaving my edges natural in color how do I get them to keep their light natural color.

Im currently using "quick slick" and following most of the steps listed above but whenever I apply the quick slick or begin rubbing the edges with canvas or sanding they start to look a bit dirty and darken. I usually end up painting them since the color isn't too pleasing if I let them be. Is it possible its the canvas Im using?

Also how do people get a colored stripe in the finished edge? I tried to find a google image but can't at the moment.

Are they dyeing/painting one edge before the piece is assembled to just that layer has a different color.

thanks

I believe this is what you're looking for mrtreat,

***edit*** For what it's worth I would love to know how this is done. It looks as though there's 4-5 layers there but overall it doesn't seem to be too thick. That edge is also glass and colors sharp. I would think burnishing traditionally would muddle the edges of the various colors?

Edited September 11, 2014 by Jbatman