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chouinardragon

what kind of bar tacker machine can do this?

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Hi guys,

I just took the pictures of my backpack. There're two leathers bar tacked on both side of the zipper.

The bar tack stitch is 1.6 cm long by 0.2 cm width. Please see the attached pictures.

I'm wondering if the Singer 269W can do it or not? Or others can do it?

Thanks!

Chouinardragon

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Hi guys,

I just took the pictures of my backpack. There're two leathers bar tacked on both side of the zipper.

The bar tack stitch is 1.6 cm long by 0.2 cm width. Please see the attached pictures.

I'm wondering if the Singer 269W can do it or not? Or others can do it?

Thanks!

Chouinardragon

Hello,

Yes a 269w8 will work for this it goes from 1.6mm - 4.0mm width & 3.2-16.9 in length

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Hello,

Yes a 269w8 will work for this it goes from 1.6mm - 4.0mm width & 3.2-16.9 in length

Hi

Thanks a lot! I really appreciate that.

By the way,is 269W8 a 42-stitch tacker? Based on that picture,what thread size is it used?

Thanks!

Chouinardragon

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Hello,

Yes a 269w8 will work for this it goes from 1.6mm - 4.0mm width & 3.2-16.9 in length

Hi Sewmun,

I just found that you sell new and used sewing machines. That's great!

Actually,I'm also looking for a Singer 68 class box cross pattern tacker which can stitch a 3.5cm by 2.0cm.

The box cross pattern please see the attached picture.

I found some 68 class but all of them don't fit my needs,they are all formed in different shape or size.

It is said that 68 class can be converted to fit my needs,but needs certain cam. And it needs an experienced mechanic and costs a lot. Is it correct?

Thanks

Chouinardragon

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Hi, First post here and I'm dragging up an old thread -- I'm new to the sewing world (at least the DIY sewing world) and I'm thinking I need an automatic bar tacker that ideally sews the box x pattern like this one does.

I'm sewing leather (1.2mm) onto poly webbing for some custom motorcycle tie down straps I'm making up.

I'll need to go through 2 layers of that leather, webbing, and velcro.

I'd ideally like to get a machine that can sew straight seams and also do the pattern stitches -- is this possible?

I was looking at a Consew 206 RB5, but I'll be bar tacking for more than half my work...so please advise if I need to prepare myself to buy two machines or there is one good one to do it all!

I really appreciate all the info in this forum --- this stuff isn't very accessible for the newbies!

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Definitely, you'll need two machines, minimum. All of the bar tackers sew within their metal frames. You will need a separate machine to sew long lines, curves, edges, etc.

The X tacker will be exactly what you need for that operation. Because it lays down regular straight stitches, rather than a tight zig-zag, it can probably be used with heavier thread than #69 (10 or 11 pound test). Ask the dealer about the thread and needle handling capacity before buying a machine. If it will tension #92 thread, run through a #19 or 20 needle. it will provide a better tack on straps that might be heavily stressed by the wind and elements.

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If you're going to be making a living off your products, and investment into a new programmable bartack machine would be a good investment. If you're just doing a few as a side hobby, You can make decent box x's with a regular lockstitch. Both Brother and Juki make really decent bartacks that can do multiple tasks. Be prepared to spend a lot of money. I have both machines and prefer the Brother. Keep in mind as you change tacks, you may need additional clamps and plates to accommodate whatever tack you want. For example, one type of clamp will do most regular straight bartacks. To do a box x, you'll need different clamps and base plate. Regards, Eric

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I searched and found another post where you recommend a Singer 269 to another member -- would this be a good model for my needs?

http://www.usa-deale...INE_p_1779.html

Then I get a different specific cam and other parts to make the box x pattern size I want?

Also thread size -- I believe I'll need some pretty big thread as I want to get some very strong connections on my webbing...maybe 207 thread?

I should add that I'm working on prototyping now -- no immediate plans for production -- but I will be load testing my straps, so the strength needs to be representative of what I could expect for production manufacturing.

And yes, I'm doing this for a living now! But I'm just getting going and don't have a trust fund!

Edited by pitchdev

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A 269 is a good general use tacker. I would not however use it for a box x. Main reason being you can't change the speed. When tacking leather or heavy webbing, a straight line tacker without a speed control like a 269 or one of the older Juki 900 series are fine. For a box x on leather, you'll appreciate the adjustable speed as you adjust to different materials and threads. I should add that neither a Singer, Brother, or Juki tacker will tension 207 thread. If you want thread that heavy, you'll need to use a regular lockstitch machine. There's no difference in strength, just speed. I've seen plenty of folks that can sew a box x manually and you can't tell the difference. Regards, Eric

Edited by gottaknow

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What model of multi tasking Brother would you recommend and what is the max thread size? What kind of price range for a used one?

Do you know of any machine that will make a box x with 207 thread?

What old straight bar tack machine would sew with the heaviest thread?

Thanks for all the info -- starting to look like the regular lock stitch machine and some time/patience/skill might be the best solution for now.

until I can afford this one - ha!

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I have a Brother KE-430D. I have used size 130 thread on it, but it required all the tension I could put on it to set the stitch. That was using a size 22 needle which is about the max for this machine. I did box X's on welding jackets going through 2 ply of 4 oz suede and 2 ply of heavy elastic. For that I used a size 21 titanium needle (regular point, not leather) and size 80 Kevlar thread. The tension release mechanism must be adjusted so the tension isn't released sewing through a lot of thickness. The biggest advantage of the newer tackers is speed control. I'd say a used Brother could be located for $3-$4k. On my older line tackers, I regularly use 105 thread with no issues. Larger than that requires some modifications. Regards, Eric

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Titanium and Kevlar -- you're speaking my language!

Would you say that a box x sewn (nicely) by hand VS a few straight line bar tacks would be much of a strength difference in a connection between two pieces of webbing?

What would you say is the ideal thread size and type for attaching webbing? I guess that's more of a question about rigging than leather working -- but if somebody knows..?!?

I have a pretty good local sewing machine mechanic guy who is helping me out -- will check to see what he has for tackers today.

Picture is how local MC jacket repair lady has been sewing my proto's...have separated one of these.

post-46953-0-75299500-1384790114_thumb.j

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Titanium and Kevlar -- you're speaking my language!

Would you say that a box x sewn (nicely) by hand VS a few straight line bar tacks would be much of a strength difference in a connection between two pieces of webbing?

What would you say is the ideal thread size and type for attaching webbing? I guess that's more of a question about rigging than leather working -- but if somebody knows..?!?

This is too complicated to answer simply in a post here. For complete, documented, and accurate answers to your questions (there are quite a few variables in there...for one, it would depend on the type of webbing, etc.), you'd need to read the Poynter manual. (This one (http://www.amazon.com/The-Parachute-Manual-Aerodynamic-Decelerators/dp/0915516802/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1384792548&sr=8-3&keywords=poynter+manual or Volume 1, if you can find either one in a library...many libraries have one or both...)

That will give you best, most accurate answers to those questions without any supposition or conjecture.

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Thanks much for that recommendation TXAG - I'd have never found that or thought of that. Will look into it.

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You're welcome...I have a lot of experience in skydiving, so have known it as a reference for a while now...it has a lot of different techniques for sewing x-boxes, strength of various webbing and thread, etc...I think it's exactly what you need...

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That is a rare book -- my librarian searched for it internationally -- only 88 libraries in the world have it.

There is one copy in Portland, but they won't let it out of the reference section.

They're requesting a library loan for a copy for me -- maybe it will come from the Naval aeronautics institute in China (they've got it)

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Weird...it's in several libraries around me locally. It's not really a rare book...there may only be 88 libraries willing to loan it out via interlibrary loan, but they're not rare. Just about every parachute rigger in the US has (or SHOULD have) at least one volume.

If you are serious about sewing and doing it to high standards (especially nylon or cotton fabrics and webbing), you ought to own the book anyway.

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milzed

Edited by gottaknow

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milzed

?

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wow -- thought I knew my web lingo -- I had to look that one up

milzed:

To revisit one's past postings on online web message forums, and retroactively delete the text, replacing it with minimally requisite text allowed by the forum's software, such as "...".

One purpose of milzing one's past postings is to erase evidence of such postings, so as to remove the ability of others to quote you.

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I went to the Multnomah central library reference section yesterday and had a look at the book.

That was the only library in the 4 counties surrounding Portland that had a copy.

I definitely took some notes and got some new ideas...but much of the book was on stuff pertaining to parachutes only.

Was just googling some terms I didn't understand (orthogonal seam anyone??) and found that the whole book is available online here:

http://books.google.com/books?id=2PopFBjLZV8C&pg=PA336&lpg=PA336&dq=bias+seam+vs+orthogonal&source=bl&ots=lduVDeBY4U&sig=J-BwSSH1FONdI-P55ftxMyCE2Fw&hl=en&sa=X&ei=yriLUuqUGsfxiwLK64DwDA&ved=0CEMQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=bias%20seam%20vs%20orthogonal&f=false

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Lol Wiz. Milzed is a universal word for deleting a entire post. ie, "he Milzed a post". It's usually a post where the person thinks better of what was originally posted. I figured you'd be the one to wonder...heh

Regards, Eric

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Yeah, a lot of the book is about packing parachutes, but there is also a lot about sewing, different classes of sewing machines, hand sewing (harnesses, etc.), military specifications as far as strengths of various materials, threads, stitches, etc...it's a good reference for those that want to make their own gear.

It's nice that it's online in google, but beware -- they've been known to suddenly remove texts that were available previously without warning. (They did this on a knot reference I found before...can't even find it on there now...)

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Lol Wiz. Milzed is a universal word for deleting a entire post. ie, "he Milzed a post". It's usually a post where the person thinks better of what was originally posted. I figured you'd be the one to wonder...heh

Regards, Eric

In Computerdom, we use the word "Foobar" to explain the same thing, or when something is broken.

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Could someone recommend a good older X tacker that would be good for my purpose of connecting 1" polyester webbing back to itself?

I spoke with the webbing manufacturer, and they use T92 bonded poly thread in a box x pattern....I think they're probably using a Brother 430 or the like.

In my readings of the Parachute Manual, that seems appropriate, but going up to 138 would be ideal for some situations.

I'd like an affordable x tacker that doesn't have all the bells and whistles -- If I need speed control later, i'll upgrade.

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