Finishing steps in your words............

[JRedding]

Seems to be a lot of guessing on this topic and thought maybe I could help, we've finished thousands of items with antique finish and developed a system that's pretty simple and gets good results. This could take a while.

Step 1

start with your item completed, by this I mean tooled, sewn, edged, rubbed, edge dyed, and background dyed if that applies.

Step 2

oil with the oil of your choice, we use olive oil on small items, oil to the desired color you want, don't rush it oil slowly in small amounts and give it plenty of time between coats to absorb, this way when you reach the color you're after it will stay that color.

Step 3

, apply a coat of something to seal the project, we use Neat-Lac but anything like Tan-Kote, or Bag-Kote will also work, we use Neat-Lac because of it's durability and predictability but have tried it all. Do not use Neat-Lac on any project that has acrylic paint used as a colorant it will strip it clean, use one of the others. Just put it on with a trimmed wool scrap, cover it thouroghly with a thin even coat, do not just stand it on there it doesn't absorb much and standing it will produce a thick, lumpy, overfinished looking finish.

Step 4

Using a clean peice of wool trimmed short apply your antique, we use the old fashioned paste. It's easy to apply, doesn't go anywhere you don't put it, gives you plenty of time to work with and you have complete control over how much you leave behind allowing you to create a lot of contrast or a little. Apply it rubbing in all directions, you want to fill all the background areas and all the cuts, work it in, pick up your peice, turn it around, hold it up to your nose if you have to but make sure you fill everything completely and the same. With another clean peice of wool start buffing it off, we trim it to about one quarter to three eighths long. The longer you leave the knap of the wool the more antique it seems to pick back up so play with that until you find a sweet spot that works for you. Just buff and clean it until it looks like you want it to, you can leave a lot or a little behind creating more or less contrast. Ideally we let it set like that for 24 hours, given a full day to cure it seems to stay in place better, you will strip less away when you apply the last coat of sealant.

Step 5

Apply the second and last coat of sealer, I like to use the same sealer all the time, not mix one with another, there's really no benefit to mixing it since the first coat is just to seal the project from the antique and is unable to have any effect on the final appearance. I've always felt there may be a downside to using two products on one item, I kind of think the first and second coat will blend and bond together better if you use the same product on both coats. Again with a clean, trimmed peice of wool apply the second coat like the first thouroghly with a thin even coat, again do not stand it on your project now it has no chance of absorbing it's sitting on top of the first layer so don't leave any sealer standing on there you don't want to look at forever because it's going to dry there. You will pull a little antique off when applying the second coat, don't scrub this coat in just apply it in a sweeping motion as best you can and avoid going in all directions, that's what you did to get the antique worked into all the cuts and it will also work to pull it back out when doing this step. Most of the antique you pull back up is coming from the smooth areas of the tooling not the depressions, don't panic. If it's a large project and you're having to do it in sections so you have time to work it, it will take several clean peices of wool to apply this last coat, you have to keep a clean one. Once they pick up too much color if you continue to use it you'll begin just smearing that second hand antique around and make a streaky mess. With Neat-Lac and a lot of practice we've been able to get a gloss or satin finish depending on how this last coat is applied.

Step 6

You're done just let it cure. In summary it's pretty simple one layer to seal the project and resist the antique from splotching up the raw leather, a layer of antique to get the contrast you want, and one layer to seal the whole project for good. I've tried to give a few pointers as to technique that are important. Ultimately it takes a lot of practice to really get a feel for using the products and the techniques that work for you. These are the basics of what we do and should get you off to a pretty close start. Perfecting a method and technique that works for you is up to you. Good Luck

[UKRay]

What a superb summary of a great methodology. Thanks, Jim.

Ray

[Chris B]

Yes thank you. I didnt realize you were supposed to resist the project before you antique it lol. I am going to have to give it a try.

Thanks Again!!!!!!

[docdomek]

This was quite helpful. Thanks for all the advice. Nothing worse than spending all the time on your project to have it look terrible due to poor finishing. I'll give these a try.

[harleysue]

OMG! Thank you so much for this post... I posted a request yesterday in the Motorcycle and Gear Forum and had not yet received a reply on the process for acrylic paint and on what to use... I think that JReddings reply just gave me my answer.... I am ready to apply a protective coat over the work and was testing all types of products... This post really helped a lot.... I think I now know the direction I am going with this project now....

I was advised at the dealer to use Fiebings Resolene... What are your takes on this product... If any one could advise me on there experiences with this product it would be greatly appreciated... I have attached a picture of the project incase any one might have another suggestion...

Thanks again to all of you so glad that I checked out this forum... much appreciated... I just love this site and all the information that the members provide...

Regards,

Harley Sue

[terrymac]

JR pretty well pegged the same finish procedure I use with the exception of using Bee's Natural Saddle Oil rather than olive oil. I just like the way it looks. Just one word of warning to everybody, don't use Neatlac (Clearlac) as a resist for any of theEco Flo antiques. The two don't work, and you will end up with the ugliest colors I have ever seen. Stick with the old true and tried Fieblings Antique Paste.

Terry

[CrazyRob]

Thanks for addressing this. I had just gotten together most of the goodies to play with these concepts when I read the posts. The rest is just getting a feel for it. Thanks again folks!

Crazy Rob

[Sylvia]

I'll revive this old thread with a couple of questions.

I notice that some of you oil before you color or stain. What exactly are the benefits of doing this?

Have any of you gone back and put acrylic paint over a piece that you've used a paste or some other sealer over?

[Bluesman]

This is absolutley a great thread. Could not remember how I usde to finish. Maybe because Tandy doesn't carry what I used to use. So after reading this thread I got on the WEB. Have this coming.

(4) Jars of Fieblings Antique Paste (different colors of course)

(2) 2 Quarts od Wyoshene (Neatlac)

(1) Quart of Neatsfoot Oil.

Bring on the Hide

[mikesmith648]

I just "finished" a project with the Bee's Natural Care RTC.............it is not a good thing! My project is now in startover phase as I need to get some clearlac or something else close to the old neatlac. Really bummed at this, but, considering it a practice piece now. I really hate "progress" and the way it messes things up that really worked in the past! Really disappointed and any suggestions would be welcome.