Do you prefer a 4 prong punch, awl or what to make sewing holes?

[NewYorkerInSydney]

G'day folks,

When making holes, do most of you prefer to use a 4 prong punch to make evenly spaced holes or do you use s stitching spacer and then an awl or what? I have started making watch straps and the holes I have been making are with a rotary punch. Not sure if I like it, especially because it seems that the holes are still not perfectly aligned even though I have been using a stitching wheel. How do you all get nice aligned holes for sewing your stitches? I am trying to decide if I should buy a 4 prong punch or buy an awl? Its just that some of my straps are a bit thick and I can't imagine pushing holes into these thick pieces of leather with one. Thanks so much for your answers

Cheers,

NYIS

Edited November 11, 2009 by NewYorkerInSydney

[Hilly]

G'day folks,

When making holes, do most of you prefer to use a 4 prong punch to make evenly spaced holes or do you use s stitching spacer and then an awl or what? I have started making watch straps and the holes I have been making are with a rotary punch. Not sure if I like it, especially because it seems that the holes are still not perfectly aligned even though I have been using a stitching wheel. How do you all get nice aligned holes for sewing your stitches? I am trying to decide if I should buy a 4 prong punch or buy an awl? Its just that some of my straps are a bit thick and I can't imagine pushing holes into these thick pieces of leather with one. Thanks so much for your answers

Cheers,

NYIS

I would never even consider one of those 4 hole punches for something as fine as a watch band . They make very large holes, and it takes very heavy thread (spelled R-O-P-E) to fill them. Your best bet would be to get yourself a good awl haft and a very fine blade for it. I belive Bob Douglas (307)737-2222 sells what you are looking for. You also might try getting a pricking iron instead of using your stitching wheel. They don't punch holes, but work like a stitching wheel, showing where your awl needs to pierce the leather, and the angle it needs to be used at.

I'd also like to suggest the book "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" by Al Stohlman. It is packed with useful information on the proper techniques of hand sewing leather. Worth every dime.

The best way to get perfect hand stitching is to practice......... a lot. Form your stitches the exact same way each and every stitch. Pull them the same tightness every time.

Hope this has helped. Please post photos of your work when you finish!

Hilly

[Luke Hatley]

I USE ONE AND IT WORKS FOR ME. NOW I WILL ADMIT IT HAS HAD A LOT OF WORK DONE TO IT.

LIKE USEING A FILE TO MAKE THE PRONGS SMALLER.

[Rawhide]

Personally I use an awl for all hand sewing, but if you like the use of the round hole punches, here's a trick for you. when you mark your hole locations, align the edge of the punch to the mark, instead of trying to center it on the mark. Once you cover it up, you can't see it and you'll never get perfectly aligned holes.

[Spence]

>Personally I use an awl for all hand sewing, but if you like the use of the round hole punches, here's a trick for you. when you mark your hole locations, align the edge of the punch to the mark, instead of trying to center it on the mark. Once you cover it up, you can't see it and you'll never get perfectly aligned holes.

If I could only find a stick, I'd whup myself over the head with it !!!

There are times I would like to use small holes, but I don't because of the alignment problem.

Not anymore !!!! Thanks for that trick.

Edited November 11, 2009 by Spence

[Hilly]

I USE ONE AND IT WORKS FOR ME. NOW I WILL ADMIT IT HAS HAD A LOT OF WORK DONE TO IT.

LIKE USEING A FILE TO MAKE THE PRONGS SMALLER.

That's a great idea, Luke! Can you show us a photo of a project you used this modified 4 prong punch on?

[DCKNIVES]

I use an awl for some stuff, but for most of my work I use my drill press. I sharpen the shank end of various sizes of drill bits( depending on the lace or thread sizes) and chuck them upside down and with the press running I punch the holes.I use pieces of 1"x 4" with a notch cut for the belt loops to keep the holes straight and even.I also made a small table out of aluminum and covered it with UHMW plastic to help move the piece around easier.Dave

[CitizenKate]

I USE ONE AND IT WORKS FOR ME. NOW I WILL ADMIT IT HAS HAD A LOT OF WORK DONE TO IT.

LIKE USEING A FILE TO MAKE THE PRONGS SMALLER.

I had thought about grinding the prongs down, so I could do the holes in just one step, and was wondering if anyone had ever tried that. I use my diamond hole punch just to lightly mark the holes, and an awl to punch them, for the same reason Hilly mentions. The holes made by the punch in its current condition would be way too big.

Kate

[bex DK]

The four prong thonging chisels are for lacing, not sewing. They are designed to make holes large enough for that size lace. I wouldn't dream of using them as-is for sewing with thread. The resulting holes are made to stay open, not disappear like the ones you need to make for sewing. If I need multiple layers of lace in, I generally stretch them with a stylus or something, but even if I didn't, I am sure they would be ugly with thread. Same deal with round punches.

My understanding is that for sewing with thread, you want to make the smallest possible hole so it will close back up afterwards. I haven't learned saddle stitch yet, but did use a different stitch for putting in zippers, etc. (don't know a name for it, but the front shows neat even stitches and the back is kinda ugly. but it is strong). Before I had the wheel for marking stitches, I sat with a ruler to make even spaces. Much easier with the wheel. You need to press firmly on a solid background to get clear marks. If you have unevenness in the marks, I would suspect either an error in technique or a poor quality or damaged wheel.

I use the groover to cut the groove for my stitches so they "disappear" flat into the leather. Then run the wheel in that with the desired spacing. You want to set it in carefully so your first hole is where you want it.

I then use an awl for the holes. I usually make all at once, but haven't done any large projects yet. With large ones it might be easier to do a few at a time. I don't know that my technique for that is completely correct--haven't studied enough yet--but I hold the awl blade so it crosses the "line" of stitches on an angle. Have to push it in far enough for the needle to go through, but not farther than necessary. My hands are pretty weak due to health conditions, so I often use a pair of pliers for pulling the needle through when it is a little tight. Then after stitching, line up the wheel again and run it over the stitches. It helps even them up and presses them into shape. that's why the wheel isn't just points--it has a curve to "shape" the stitches.

Hope that helps some.

I realize more experienced people are mentioned modifying the thonging chisel, but I imagine that can only work if you have a very low number of stitches per inch.

Oh, and whether you use chisel or awl, be sure to use something soft underneath that won't dull the points. I put a thick leather scrap under so I can push the tip into that safely. My plastic board otherwise dulls the point and prevents the thonging chisel from cutting deep enough to make a slit that is comfortable for lacing.

Good lcuk!

Rebecca

[Luke Hatley]

That's a great idea, Luke! Can you show us a photo of a project you used this modified 4 prong punch on?

hope the photos are clear, i did some changes on the camera.

the small case is with the small punch /6 cord tappered end thread.

the canteen is sewn /8 cord thread , punched with a larger punch.

...........works for me..........

Edited November 12, 2009 by Luke Hatley