How most finish coat seat .

[chainftw]

Just wondering how most people finish there seats .

I use Olive oil before dye, then Fiebing oil dye , then any Hi-Lite or Antique, then olive oil again , let dry and Aussie wax .

I don't like the acrylic finish even though I know it protects better .

[bustedlifter]

Fiebings Snow Proof. Sometimes I use 20w-50 or 60w Valvoline or Harley oil,depends what I have laying around, before dyeing.

[chainftw]

Fiebings Snow Proof. Sometimes I use 20w-50 or 60w Valvoline or Harley oil,depends what I have laying around, before dyeing.

UHH....YEAH THANKS .

[David]

I would never use a food product on leather. Nor would I use a petrolium oil on leather. Pure neatsfoot oil is not terribly expensive and certainly much better for leather than either of the others.

I use it prior to dyeing the leather. When ready for a finish, I use either Leather Balm with atom wax or Aussie conditioner.

Dave

Edited December 24, 2009 by David

[bustedlifter]

I would never use a food product on leather. Nor would I use a petrolium oil on leather. Pure neatsfoot oil is not terribly expensive and certainly much better for leather than either of the others.

I use it prior to dyeing the leather. When ready for a finish, I use either Leather Balm with atom wax or Aussie conditioner.

Dave

Dave, have you tried the Snowproof? I think it repels water better than the Aussie conditioner. I may be wr..wro...wron..uh mistaken but doesn't neatsfoot oil have some animal fat/ byproducts in it? As far as motor oil goes, I'm just a petroleum kind of guy. I've used motor oil on stuff and it's holding up really well.

At any rate, you say tomato and I say tomahto.

[David]

Dave, have you tried the Snowproof? I think it repels water better than the Aussie conditioner. I may be wr..wro...wron..uh mistaken but doesn't neatsfoot oil have some animal fat/ byproducts in it? As far as motor oil goes, I'm just a petroleum kind of guy. I've used motor oil on stuff and it's holding up really well.

At any rate, you say tomato and I say tomahto.

Never tried Snowproof, I haven't seen it for sale around here, but I'll be sure to try it when I do see it.

Neatsfoot is made from the shin bones of cattle.... and it MADE to be used on leather. It isn't made for salads or crankcases. Just teasing ya. I am really concerned that eventually the motor oil will cause the leather to degrade and simply fall apart.

Dave

[bustedlifter]

Never tried Snowproof, I haven't seen it for sale around here, but I'll be sure to try it when I do see it.

Neatsfoot is made from the shin bones of cattle.... and it MADE to be used on leather. It isn't made for salads or crankcases. Just teasing ya. I am really concerned that eventually the motor oil will cause the leather to degrade and simply fall apart.

Dave

I scored the Snowproof from Springfield Leather. That's the reason I don't use Neatsfoot, it isn't made for crankcases. Oh by the way, Merry Christmas to you and yours!!!

[chainftw]

I scored the Snowproof from Springfield Leather. That's the reason I don't use Neatsfoot, it isn't made for crankcases. Oh by the way, Merry Christmas to you and yours!!!

Hey man,

I thought you were F#@$ with me about the 20 \50 . Does it really work ?

[chainftw]

I would never use a food product on leather. Nor would I use a petrolium oil on leather. Pure neatsfoot oil is not terribly expensive and certainly much better for leather than either of the others.

I use it prior to dyeing the leather. When ready for a finish, I use either Leather Balm with atom wax or Aussie conditioner.

Dave

Hey Dave ,

I know what your saying but I Talked to some saddle makers who have been at it for a while and they prefer

Olive Oil over Neatsfoot oil . They say it doesn't turn rancid like neatsfoot can which can have a type of animal fat in it , and it doesen't make the leather fibers mushy

and week after using it . Thanks for your suggestion though .

Chain

[outcast]

Dave's right about the make up of Pure Neetsfoot oil, however Prime Neetsfoot oil has been around for along time & contains petroleum distillates. I don't use it for the same reason Dave doesn't, but I assume many do. It's still available, so obviously enough ppl use it without complaints to keep making it. So, I guess in a pinch the motor oil may not hurt. Also I have heard from ol' timers that olive oil does work well if used sparingly. Roger (Beesachoppa) has used it in the past, but I've never tried it. Neetsfoot oil is too cheap to chance a rancid leather seat later with olive oil.

As far as water repellent I've used Aussies, Pecards is better, but IMO Montana Pitch Blend works the best, although I haven't tried the Snow Seal, or Snowproof yet.

So, with that said here is my progression of finishes.

1. oil (neetsfoot, or lexol for natural)

2. dye

3. lexol

4. Leather balm with atom wax

5. Aussies, Pecards, or Montana Pitch Blend

[bustedlifter]

Hey man,

I thought you were F#@$ with me about the 20 \50 . Does it really work ?

No, I wasn't messing with you. I think it works great! I've had Neetsfoot oil in an unheated area freeze up in cold weather and you don't have that problem with petroleum oils. Besides ,a lot of motorcycle riders think it's really cool that you use motor oil on something that's going on their bike. And I always have 20-50 or 60w laying around the shop. If you really want to blow their mind get some oil that they ran through their engine to oil up the project.

Edited December 29, 2009 by bustedlifter

[chainftw]

Dave's right about the make up of Pure Neetsfoot oil, however Prime Neetsfoot oil has been around for along time & contains petroleum distillates. I don't use it for the same reason Dave doesn't, but I assume many do. It's still available, so obviously enough ppl use it without complaints to keep making it. So, I guess in a pinch the motor oil may not hurt. Also I have heard from ol' timers that olive oil does work well if used sparingly. Roger (Beesachoppa) has used it in the past, but I've never tried it. Neetsfoot oil is too cheap to chance a rancid leather seat later with olive oil.

As far as water repellent I've used Aussies, Pecards is better, but IMO Montana Pitch Blend works the best, although I haven't tried the Snow Seal, or Snowproof yet.

So, with that said here is my progression of finishes.

1. oil (neetsfoot, or lexol for natural)

2. dye

3. lexol

4. Leather balm with atom wax

5. Aussies, Pecards, or Montana Pitch Blend

Thanks for the info .

Do you mean the Lexol conditioner in the dark brown bottle or the cleaner ? And if you have to put a block coat would you do it after oil?

Thanks, Chain

[outcast]

Thanks for the info .

Do you mean the Lexol conditioner in the dark brown bottle or the cleaner ? And if you have to put a block coat would you do it after oil?

Thanks, Chain

Yup the brown jug. I"m not sure what yer talking about on the 2nd question. Sometimes I don't even use Lexol. Sometimes that & Pecards are all I use.