Fiebings Black - alternatives?

[RuehlLeatherWorks]

I've been using the Fiebings Black Alcohol based dye but I'm not happy with the results. Despite multiple applications, it seems that most of the time the dye simply rubs off the surface. This would be great if that was the effect I was seeking, but when I'm trying to make a solid black piece, worn areas are not beneficial to a uniform looking product. Does anyone have alternative method or products they use that achieve better success?

[celticleather]

Have you tried Fiebings Professional Oil Dye? It certainly works well for me, with no rub-off. It seems to dye almost anything . . . leather, fingers, clothes, carpets . . .

[hivemind]

There's also vinegaroon.

Also, are you talking about multiple bottles of Fiebing's black, or all the same bottle? I've gotten odd bottles before.

[TwinOaks]

Vinegaroon gets my vote for deep, rich, black that won't rub off. Do a search for the term and look for the threads with the most replies- we got into the chemical reactions in one of 'em.

A note of caution though- test on piece of scrap from the same side. I had one piece that turned a fantastic midnight blue instead of black...but that was alright for the product.

[ryano]

I use Feibings 306 black dye. It is for dying harness leather and works great. Does not have that nasty smell like the pro dye. Call Feibings and ask for a free sample. They are very good on giving samples. I buy my 306 from Beilers Supply 717-768-0174

[TomSwede]

What are you dyueing?? Old and worn areas doesn't exactly match my criterias for tooling leather so Iäm wondering if you are dealing with garment leather or??

Tom

[RuehlLeatherWorks]

What are you dyueing?? Old and worn areas doesn't exactly match my criterias for tooling leather so Iäm wondering if you are dealing with garment leather or??

Tom

I get whole tooling sides when I purchase my leather, but I seem to have this problem regardless of the location or make of the leather.

[roo4u]

what kind of leather are you dyeing? leather that has a finish will not dye even or penetrate very well. you would have to use a deglazing product first. spirit dyes can be tuff to get nice even color due to the alcohol in the dye if it evaporates differently in different density areas of the leather it leaves the uneven color. oil dyes penetrate the leather differently and so can produce a more uniform look.

[JLSleather]

Not sure where I got the idea ... probably an old '60's craft book. I use the Fiebing's black dye (like you mention), but first dye the project blue or green (full strength) then do the black. Buff it (there ARE particles, but a soft cloth takes it down easy), then a light application of Neatsfoot will "set" it. Never any problems that way, though I tried the oil dye (and didn't care for it).

[ChaChi]

I use the Fiebing's USMC Black on just about everything I need done in black. Make sure the leather is COMPLETELY dry or it will not take the dye evenly (trust me on that). I apply it with a dauber in a circular motion until the entire piece is covered and let it dry for about a half hour. Then buff off any residue with a horsehair shoe brush for polishing. If there are spots of imperfection (and there usually are) apply a second coat in the same way. Let it dry for another half hour, buff it off with the brush, and you should see a super black piece without streaks or spots and it has a nice sheen to it, ready for your neatsfoot oil or finish. I had to buy several brushes and mark them on the top BLACK and BROWN so the residue in the brush didn't ruin my next project.

My guess is that either your leather still has some moisture in it from the tooling process or you have a bad bottle of dye (that's happened to me too)