Members Happy Hooligan Posted August 8, 2010 Author Members Report Posted August 8, 2010 The original needle system called for by your machine is either 16x4 or 16x246. These measure 33.9 mm from the end of the shank to the eye, or just a little over a mm shy of 1 and 3/8". Like Wizcrafts says use #69 thread and a needle with an eye neither too big or too small. You can read about a neat trick to choose the proper size needle and thread combination in this forum. There is an online manual for your machine on the Singer Industrial Products website. so I was going through a box of stuff it came with and found a pack of 10 needles labeled DBx95 or 16x95 are these the wrong size? Quote
Members machinehead Posted August 8, 2010 Members Report Posted August 8, 2010 so I was going through a box of stuff it came with and found a pack of 10 needles labeled DBx95 or 16x95 are these the wrong size? Your machine is intended to sew leather shoes so originally it called for needles with a leather cutting point. The 16x95 needles are the same length from the end of shank to the eye as the two systems called for so you should be able to use them to get it sewing with the possible exception if there is a substantial difference in the scarf { the indentation near the eye on the opposite side from the needle's long groove}. This is where the hook passes the needle and the loop is formed and picked up by the point of the hook. Since you found the 16x95 needles with the machine, it probably means that at some point the previous owner sewed with them. They are a ball point needle for fabric,but on thin leather using several stitches per inch they wouldn't cause the leather to split between the stitches. Quote
Members Happy Hooligan Posted August 8, 2010 Author Members Report Posted August 8, 2010 Your machine is intended to sew leather shoes so originally it called for needles with a leather cutting point. The 16x95 needles are the same length from the end of shank to the eye as the two systems called for so you should be able to use them to get it sewing with the possible exception if there is a substantial difference in the scarf { the indentation near the eye on the opposite side from the needle's long groove}. This is where the hook passes the needle and the loop is formed and picked up by the point of the hook. Since you found the 16x95 needles with the machine, it probably means that at some point the previous owner sewed with them. They are a ball point needle for fabric,but on thin leather using several stitches per inch they wouldn't cause the leather to split between the stitches. fantastic then, I'll try to use these and see if I can adjust the timing.... now as to adjusting timing on my household machines I unscrew the bottom shaft that goes under the machine and I can turn the bobbin then without the needle going up and down. On this machine when I unscrew the two that hold the shaft it is still turning. Are these different than a household machine or is it stuck in there and need a little force to break the bond? Quote
Members Happy Hooligan Posted August 9, 2010 Author Members Report Posted August 9, 2010 Okay... so the needle good... now I timed it so the hook passes through the "cut out" of the needle on the upstroke. Here's the video... is that correct? If so, let me get the proper thread to use and play with the tension. http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k361/happyhooligan70/?action=view¤t=MOV04639.mp4 Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted August 9, 2010 Moderator Report Posted August 9, 2010 Okay... so the needle good... now I timed it so the hook passes through the "cut out" of the needle on the upstroke. Here's the video... is that correct? If so, let me get the proper thread to use and play with the tension. http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k361/happyhooligan70/?action=view¤t=MOV04639.mp4 The needle is now in correctly and the point is passing the eye at the right moment. Get your thread and start sewing. I recommend using #69 bonded nylon, top and bottom. You can buy it all over eBay, in a huge range of colors and in 4, 8, and 16 oz spools. Use #18 or 20 needles, depending on the thickness and density of the leather. Use may be able to use a #16 needle on vinyl and garment cloth. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members Happy Hooligan Posted August 11, 2010 Author Members Report Posted August 11, 2010 Well it's working!.... almost It is sewing now but the tension is wrong. Also I can't screw down the center plate all the way or it freezes the bobbin ... might be age though. I tried it out on some scrap denim I had. The Bunching up is from my playing with the upper tension. Should I mess with the bobbin or try to get the top to fix it all? I also noticed it would skip a hole or toe on the top stitch... But at least it sews! I haven't tried leather yet, as I don't have the right thread yet... Quote
Members Happy Hooligan Posted August 16, 2010 Author Members Report Posted August 16, 2010 So after playing with the top tension forever, I still just get a straight thread on the bottom (flat). So how do I add more tension to the bottom bobbin? I took it out and tightend the two screws next to the oil pad on piece that the bobbin goes into... is that correct? I didn't see how to on the manual...? Quote
CowboyBob Posted August 16, 2010 Report Posted August 16, 2010 The first thing you might want to check is look in between the upper tension discs & see if there's any old thread & or lint builtup in between them. The looping underneath is almost always an indication of to loose upper tension (are u sure the thread is pulled down in between the discs?) The needle plate has 2 grooves under it & there's a small metal tab on the bobbincase the goes into it,then you can tighten the 2 screws. HTH Bob Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Members Happy Hooligan Posted August 16, 2010 Author Members Report Posted August 16, 2010 The first thing you might want to check is look in between the upper tension discs & see if there's any old thread & or lint builtup in between them. The looping underneath is almost always an indication of to loose upper tension (are u sure the thread is pulled down in between the discs?) The needle plate has 2 grooves under it & there's a small metal tab on the bobbincase the goes into it,then you can tighten the 2 screws. HTH Bob Thanks Bob, I'll check on any extra thread on the upper tension. As to the needle plate, I can't seem to tighten it all the way or the needle has trouble. It might be a bobbin thing actually not being able to spin fully when I tighten it all the way. If i leave it just a little loose it works... So are you saying to tighten those two screws on the bobbin holder, next to the little oil sponge thing? thanks Derek Quote
Members Leatherimages Posted August 16, 2010 Members Report Posted August 16, 2010 I'll just jump in with an obvious possibility. I have a 31-15 Singer table machine, with a knee lift. I've noticed that when my knee is touching the lift pad even a little bit, it will throw the tensions off, usually the top thread pulling to much below the surface. I don't know if this has been considered here, I'm just dropping in, but it's something to know not to do. Good luck. Quote Back to the bench, Paul "When you finally get your wings, don't complain about the wind in your face."
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