My Saddle Attempts

[Aurelie]

i like the "antique" style due to dye coupled with the "un usual" (scorpion)

nice job

[compound]

Hi all

Next saddle after long time

ASSN 14" wide fork

92 deg QH bars

Inlayd 15 1/2" seat, 5x13" cantle

7/8 in skirt rig

Full geometric tooling-second place on LEATHER WORLD DEBUT show in Sheridan Wyoming this year

Edited July 10, 2013 by compound

[Aurelie]

congrats!

i really like the details of your geometric pattern!

care to share how you keep the right alignement? you work it the same way as a usual basket?

[AdamTill]

Really like that pattern, well done!

[compound]

Hi all

Here is my last special saddle project.

Saddle nispired by 1880 Meanea Cheyenne saddles (or North Plain saddles) and was bulit for my best friend

Edited November 8, 2014 by compound

[Aurelie]

Nice !

[GrampaJoel]

Very nice. I love the era style. I really like the color you used also!

Would you mind showing or explaining how you do your horn cap?

I can't find an example any where.

I've seen them with screws which I just can't figure out in my mind.

However, it doesn't look like you use screws, but I can't make out what you are using.

Thanks

Joel

[compound]

Thanks to all

Real color of saddle is a little different,was rong light for my old camera this day.

Yes,i know-screw was used on horn cap of original era saddles. But my customer decided for iron button instead screw. ...it look very several

I forgot for saddle details

seat.......... 15,5 in

skirts.........square, 13x28in

rigging..... 7/8 sam stagg

3,5 in "box" stirrups

Martin

Edited November 9, 2014 by compound

[oltoot]

All very well done, just two observations. Have you noticed that on your saddles that are copies of 'old timey' ones that you are placing the ear and concho at the base of the cantle further back than on your originals? Having made and used this stuff for many years, there is a good reason for that. A little further back and a rope is much less likely to get hung up there which is even more so when you have the hobble ring there; and I wonder why you have chosen that slick looking material for horn wraps. Holding dallies is hard enough with a good, freshly roughed up mulehide. In use, when the mulehide gets slick from use, you unwrap the horn, take the mulehide inside and either soak or boil it til it is soft and then take a scrub brush to it and rough it up, then rewrap it and go again. It is all part of the proper wrap which has no nails and is always (except for lefties that do evrything backwards) wrapped clockwise so dallies will tighten, not loosen wrap. Maybe you already knew all this and are choosing different for some other reason.