longtooth1313 Report post Posted August 30, 2010 (edited) Having a problem with sharpening my straight edge knives. I've used the paper wheels, oiled sand paper, different grits of paper from coarse to fine and can't get the knives sharp enough to cut used thread. I also, have tried using wet and dry stones. My head knife I can get sharp but these straight edge knives have me baffled. The handles on them are green wood and they come from leather suppliers. I wonder if the steel they use is inferior and that's the reason I can't get them sharp??? Edited August 30, 2010 by longtooth1313 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terrahyd Report post Posted August 30, 2010 I use white rouge on a buss' card strobe till the edges are polished sharp as hell ... Doc .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
longtooth1313 Report post Posted August 30, 2010 I use white rouge on a buss' card strobe till the edges are polished sharp as hell ... Doc .. Thank you for the response. Do not know what a buss' card strobe is ? Please explain. Thank you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted August 30, 2010 (edited) Their are all kinds of things on you tube if you type in knife sharping. Edited August 30, 2010 by dirtclod Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferg Report post Posted August 30, 2010 Having a problem with sharpening my straight edge knives. I've used the paper wheels, oiled sand paper, different grits of paper from coarse to fine and can't get the knives sharp enough to cut used thread. I also, have tried using wet and dry stones. My head knife I can get sharp but these straight edge knives have me baffled. The handles on them are green wood and they come from leather suppliers. I wonder if the steel they use is inferior and that's the reason I can't get them sharp??? I am guessing here so...... I believe you may need to grind the edge into it's original shape. If you do not have a set-up for a grinder that you can do this, please take it to a sharpening shop and tell them exactly what you want. When that is done use a strop every time you are going to cut some leather/"used thread." ferg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveh Report post Posted August 30, 2010 The hyde green handled shoe knives are generally good steel, but is possible that you have one that is not tempered right, you can overheat them on a wheel and lose the temper as well. but since you can sharpen up your round knife, most likely not the case. I believe the above post ,means a bussiness card rubbed with rouge as strop.works good with small blades like swivle knife. I like a horse hide strop loaded with rouge for larger knives. steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasJack Report post Posted August 31, 2010 What can happen is that you get a 'wire edge' at the edge. The metal kinda stretches out into a thin layer that sticks out from the edge. When you try to use the blade, that thin layer just folds over and it seems like the blade is dull. A couple of things you can do. First sharpen TOWARDS the edge, not away from it. Go slow. There is nothing to be gained by sharpening fast. When you finish up on your finest grit (or ceramic), lighten up on the final few strokes. Then use a piece of leather to strop off any wire edge. You can also use a buffer, but be very, very careful it doesn't fling the blade somewhere you don't want it to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGGUNDOCTOR Report post Posted August 31, 2010 To second what TJ said. When using a stone the motion is like trying to slice a layer off of it, not dragging it across backwards. I do my sharpening by hand. If the blade has turned colors of the rainbow it has been overheated, and lost the temper in that section of the blade. If the motion is correct, along with the angle, it may be that you just have a crappy knife. Are there any markings as to maker, or country of origin? If it says China, India, or Pakistan toss it, unless you need a small putty knife, scraper, etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
longtooth1313 Report post Posted August 31, 2010 To second what TJ said. When using a stone the motion is like trying to slice a layer off of it, not dragging it across backwards. I do my sharpening by hand. If the blade has turned colors of the rainbow it has been overheated, and lost the temper in that section of the blade. If the motion is correct, along with the angle, it may be that you just have a crappy knife. Are there any markings as to maker, or country of origin? If it says China, India, or Pakistan toss it, unless you need a small putty knife, scraper, etc. Thanks to all for the advise. Going to try all suggestions and find the one that works for me. Hyde is the name on the handle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted August 31, 2010 Thanks to all for the advise. Going to try all suggestions and find the one that works for me. Hyde is the name on the handle Let me add just one more suggestion, . . . I have found one of the best materials for making a really good knife strop is the grey, thick cardboard that is often on the backs of tablets, and sometimes is used in shipping containers for separators of different products. It is kind of porous, . . . will load up well with rouge, . . . and will sharpen a knife to a razor's edge super quick. I was taught this trick in a Tandy shop, . . . the teacher used it to keep his swivel knife blade sharp. Ummm, . . . yeah, . . . I use it for that too. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasJack Report post Posted September 1, 2010 ... If it says China, India, or Pakistan toss it, unless you need a small putty knife, scraper, etc. Yeah, that's exactly right! Japan, USA, Germany, England all produce quality steel. Taiwan is hit or miss. But the rest of Asia produces steel that barely qualifies as rebar. I don't care if it says "stainless" or if it shines like a mirror. They don't have the equipment to make good quality tool steel. Really good steel is hard to sharpen, but holds a great edge. It's not just the composition of the steel; it also has to do with the heat treating. You say your knife has the name "Hyde" on it. They're supposed to be a pretty good company that makes a broad variety of industrial knives. Oh, there is one other thing. Some knife steels use vanadium. It helps make a very, very good knife steel. However, it also makes the steel very, very hard to sharpen. Very tiny quantities of vanadium nitride get on the surface as you remove the surrounding steel during sharpening. It is very hard and keeps the steel from coming in contact with the sharpening surface. Time, patience, and a good stone or ceramic will overcome the problem. But if you do have such a knife, the important thing to remember is to keep it sharp and don't let it get so dull that you spend all day sharpening. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mick Report post Posted September 1, 2010 Let me add just one more suggestion, . . . I have found one of the best materials for making a really good knife strop is the grey, thick cardboard that is often on the backs of tablets, and sometimes is used in shipping containers for separators of different products. It is kind of porous, . . . will load up well with rouge, . . . and will sharpen a knife to a razor's edge super quick. I was taught this trick in a Tandy shop, . . . the teacher used it to keep his swivel knife blade sharp. Ummm, . . . yeah, . . . I use it for that too. May God bless, Dwight that is what I use to hone my woodworking gouges/chisels. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steelhawk Report post Posted September 1, 2010 Where do you get the white rouge. I have some dull tools as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8thsinner Report post Posted September 1, 2010 I hadn't heard of Hyde before but it seems to me that they should be pretty solid blades with a good temper, The only thing I can think on is that either your sharpening tools are not up to such a high quality blade. I am currently looking for their rockwell ratings, if it happens to above 61 or 62 that would explain your problem. You will need extremely aggressive fast cutting mediums. Either japanese wet stones, or perhaps the micro films that go down to .5microns. Diamond mediums simply won't be able to handle a steel like that for very long. Another issue could be an inconsistency in the angle you are using. Oh, found it, they can temper blades up to 64 RC. That would hold a fantastic edge but also be one of the very hardest to sharpen, especially if your not used to such high grades. Perhaps you should invest in a small rock well tester kit just to make sure. That place looks perfect for making high end splitter blades. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
longtooth1313 Report post Posted September 2, 2010 Thank you again for the great input. Mind is spinning. I have a Japanese wet stone and will try it . Will keep all informed. Thank you again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thumper Report post Posted September 3, 2010 I use my Tormek to put an edge on my tools through about 1,000 grit. Used it on my swivel knife for the initial edge and took about 20 seconds to get it nice and sharp. Rouge and some cardboard got it really nice and sharp in about a minute. Take your time when learning to sharpen. It's not a race your are looking to win....it's an edge that cuts cleanly and smoothly and I haven't seen an edge yet that is in a hurry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites